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VISITOR'S GUIDE 



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Published by the 

ESSEX INSTITUTE. 

SALEM, MASS. 



895. 




Cily Hull. 
Jioston tt- Maine HtHlitm 



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VISITOR'S GUIDE 



TO 



SALEM. 



THIRTY-FIFTH THOUSAND. 



Published by the T^I'tlHi^ ^ 

ESSEX INSTITUTE, ^^^^j::^^- 

SALEM, MASS. ^ '^ 

.895. 



Copyright, 1895. 



Printed by 
NEAVCOMB & GAUSS, 
\ \^ , .-. Salbm, Mass. 



CONTENTS. 

I. Introductory, ...... i 

II. Points of Historical Interest, . . .10 

III. Public Buildings, ..... 36 

IV. City Buildings. . . . . . 63 

V. Libraries, Scientific Institutions, etc., . . 71 

VI. Charities, . . . . . . .112 

VII. Business . . . . . . .118 

VIII. Public Grounds, . . . . . .124 

IX. Natural Objects OF Interest, . . .131 

X. Drives AND Walks, . . . . . .137 

XI. Hawthorne in Salem, ..... 162 

XII. Souvenir Shopping, . . . . . 1S2 

XIII. Lists of Portraits. ..... 190 

XIV. Bibliography, . . . . . .199 

Index, ....... 201 

(iii) 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



For the right to use all but two of the photographs from which the 
illustrations in this guide were made, the Institute is indebted to the 
courtesy of Mr. Frank Cousins. The half-tone prints and the sketches 
are from the Boston Engraving Co., 227 Tremont St., Boston. 

City Seal from sketch by Ross Turner, cover. 

^Xity Hall, Boston and Maine R. R. Station. Frontispiece. 
■Ward house, showing overhanging second story, 

Narbonne house, showing lean-to roof, 

Miles Ward house, showing gambrel roof and porch, \_ 

Cabot house, showing gambrel roof about 1748, j 

-Gallows Hill, ) 

. Shattuck House, j 
^ North Church, South Church, [ 

IWesley Church, St. Peter's Church, f 
'i Custom House 
A Post Office, 

Court Houses, | ^4 

Law Library, j 

1 Public Library, exterior, ) 7 , 

{ Public Library, main hall, ) 

Essex Institute, exterior, 
. Essex Institute, historical room 

(iv) 



73 



• 87 
93 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

N Peabody Academy of Science, rear, ) 

^Peabody Academy of Science, East Hall, i 

4 Peabody Academy of Science, Natural History Collections, 

. " Old Burying Point," Charter St., [ 

>j Ancient headstone, Charter St., j ' ^^^ 

^ The Willows, ) 

J View from the Willows, ) ^ 

^, Baker's Island, Point of rocks, ) 

^ Baker's Island, The Cliffs, \ '^^ 

V Nichols house, type of Colonial Architecture, \ 

i Nichols house, paved yard, j " 

Dutch doorway modernized, Newell posts, ) 
Landing of Macintire staircase, j- . . • . 

. North Bridge (Leslie's Retreat). ) 

; Birthplace of Timothy Pickering, f 

.'Roger Williams' or ''Witch House," front and rear, .158 

J Hawthorne, The Birthplace, The Old Town Pump, \^ 

i The House of the Seven Gables, "Grimshawe" House, \ 

i Door-heads, The Pineapple, ] 

^ Colonial, Macintire, f 

: Doorways, Colonial, Modernized Colonial, ] 

. Pre-revolulionary, Macintire, j 



134 
148 

157 

.5S 
162 



PREFATORY NOTE. 



The call for another edition of the Visitor's Guide to Salem shows 
that it meets with favor from the travelling public and fills a place be- 
fore unoccupied, — that of a brief local guide. The first edition was is- 
sued in 1880, taking the place of the Museum Guide issued by the 
Peabody Academy of Science in 1879 ^^^^ ^^e descriptive pamphlets 
which had for several years before been published and distributed by 
the Essex Institute. This new edition has been thoroughly revised 
and largely re-written and correction made of such errors as have been 
noted. The visitors to Salem, to whom this guide most directly ap- 
peals, are drawn here by its historical associations and by its various 
institutions which have something to attract the sight-seer and the 
summer tourist. Very little space, therefore, has been devoted to the 
business interests of Salem the compilers preferring to leave that 
field to others. Neither has it been attempted to make this an adver- 
tising guide, except to the extent of calling attention to certain spec- 
ialties which tourists might desire to procure as souvenirs. The Essex 
Institute would be glad to receive suggestions which would be useful 
in future editions and would also be pleased to be notified of any errors 
which may need correction, 
(vi) 



CHAPTER I, 

Introdiictorv. 



'^ Alt ancient ioTi'>i,—fitll many a street 

Whence busy life hath fled, — 
Where ^ zvithoiit hurry, noiseless feet 

The grass-grozcn pavements tread." 



THUS Wordsworth has pictured Bruges. Not so Salem, though 
many wanderers come here expecting to find us such. One's 
palfrey cannot yet '"go to grass in Cheapside " here. Never was more 
tonnage afloat in Salem harbor than to-day, although it comes not 
from the fabled realms of " Far Cathay," but from our less roman- 
tic and more congenial neighbors of the Eastern Provinces. Never 
was the population of Salem so numerous as to-day, — a wholesome 
growth with which valuation and the number of homesteads keep 
steady pace. Since we had a census in 1765, there has been but one 
period in our history in which the population of Salem did not show a 
healthy growth, and that, be it said to our honor, was the period of 
thi Civil War. Salem is now a city of 32,000 people. New York had 
no more at the close of the last century. 

It is sixteen miles north-east of Boston on the Eastern Division of 
the Boston and Maine Railroad. Its place is unique among the cities 
of America. It was settled in 1626,— four years before Boston. For 
two centuries it was second only to Boston in importance amongst 
New England towns. It was the second city chartered in this state. 
Twice it has been the seat of government,— first under Endicott in 

(I) 



2 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

1628-9, and then under Gage in 1774. It has been a shire-town always, 
and, since there were railroads, a railroad centre for Essex County. 
And this fact, together with its splendid library and educational 
facilities, has made it the choice of the state, since 1854, for the loca- 
tion of a Normal School. 

The feature of the Salem of to-day which arrests the stranger's at- 
tention is her three libraries and her two museums. The Athenaeum 
(of which, as of the rest, extended mention will be found at the proper 
place), a cl-ub library of 20,000 volumes, — the Salem Public Library, not 
yet a decade old, but counting 32,000 volumes and commended as a 
model of its kind at Chicago in 1893,— the Institute library of 70,000 
volumes, with 250,000 pamphlets, besides countless duplicates for ex- 
change, — and the unrivalled collections of objects illustrating natural, 
civil, and local history, and ethnology, stored in the Peabody Acad- 
emy of Science, — a county society once the East India Marine 
Museum, — and in the Essex Institute, a county society formed of the 
Essex Historical and Natural History Societies,— these priceless treas- 
ures place Salem in a position of vantage in this regard where she 
need fear no rival. 

Two governors of Massachusetts have been identified with Salem. 
They happened to be the first and the last of the charter governors, 
and no other governor has ever lived here. Endicott came here as 
governor in September, 1628. He filled the chair sixteen years in all, 
—a south of England man of ancient lineage. A William Endecotte, 
(born 1558: died 1582) was a fellow of Exeter College, Oxford, in 
1578, and the estate of Yendecott, near the river Exe, was held (1377- 
1399) by one Richard de Yendecott. 

Bradstreet, the nestor governor of Massachusetts, came here with 
Winthrop in June, 1630. He outlived the whole Winthrop party, and 
died here and was buried here in March, 1697, AL. 94 (tomb in Charter 
street cemetery). He filled all the leading offices: was twice gover- 
nor: first from 1679 to 1686, when the charter was annulled, and again 



INTRODUCTORY. 3 

from 1689 to 1692, when he headed a revolutionary movement, snatched 
the sword of State from Andros whom he imprisoned, and three years 
later delivered it to Sir William Phipps, Governor under the new 
Charter from William III, becoming, at the patriarchal age of 89, his 
First Assistant. 

The record of Salem as a great commercial centre, — as the pioneer 
in the India trade,— her splendid record in the old Indian and French 
and Revolutionary wars, and as the capital of the State just before 
the outbreak of the last, — her unique attitude in the War of 1812, and 
her creditable part in the War of the Rebellion, must be sought for 
elsewhere if there are those who do not know them well. This is but 
a handbook for the stranger, and if it serve him as a pocket-compass 
it fulfils its mission. One hardly needs a guide to get about Salem, 
for the city is a compact one and the seeker for objects of historic and 
archaic interest can hardly go astray. Strike the spade in anywhere 
and you will not fail to turn up something worthy of study. But the 
stranger needs a little help in recalling her renown and in connecting 
events of the past wath localities now modernized and transformed by 
centuries of bustling life. 

Take, first, her part in history : her settlement dating back with the 
very earliest ; her association with Roger Williams, with Hugh Peters, 
with John Endicott; her conspicuous and unhappy connection with 
the miserable witchcraft frenzy ; her romantic commercial epoch, in- 
cluding the War of 181 2 with its privateering successes ; and finally 
her well earned eminence as a scientific and educational centre. We 
show you the spot where British aggression was arrested two months 
before Lexington and Concord ; the spot where, a whole year before 
Bunker Hill, Massachusetts, as Webster declared, in his oration over 
Adams and Jeft'erson, "terminated forever the actual exercise of the 
political power of England in or over her territory." 

We think of the Pilgrims as among the very earliest of pioneers, but 
Roger Conant and his followers settled at Cape Ann only three years 



4 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

and in Salem only six years after the landing of the Maytiower at 
Plymouth, armed with a charter which licensed the settling of the 
North Shore of Massachusetts Bay. This document, like many 
another precious thing, is to be seen at the Essex Institute. The 
difference in time between its date, January first, 1623, and the arrival 
of Roger Conant at Naumkeag in 1626, is accounted for by the fact 
that the little band first tried a settlement at Cape Ann- This they 
found a poor place for husbandry and a bleak winter's residence, and 
they soon moved on to Naumkeag. This old Indian name, with its 
suggestion of tomahawk and scalping knife, gave place to a peaceful 
Hebrew name soon after, but the Naumkeag Sachem holds the 
sceptre still, and you find him dominating the region to-day, bestrid- 
ing his shaggy pony on the bill boards, — giving his name to cotton 
mills and street cars and laundries and clothing stores and generally 
ruling the roost as a full blooded chieftain and ancient landed pro- 
prietor should. Naumkeag became Salem in June, 1629. 

After the manner of foreign owners who felt nothing more than a 
business interest in the settlement, the Plymouth Company in Eng- 
land granted a new charter, suspending that of (Sonant, to Governor 
Endicott; a duplicate copy of this charter is preserved in the Salem 
Athenaeum. Endicott and his followers, with the men already here, 
established the town in 1628. The town being established, the next 
thing needful was naturally the meeting house, therefore the first 
Congregational Church formed on the soil of America was organized 
here in July and August, 1629, The Rev. Francis Higginson and the 
Rev. Samuel Skelton first ministered to these three hundred colonists. 
In 1630 came John Winthrop, to supersede Endicott in turn as Gover- 
nor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony. His stay was brief for he soon 
moved on to found Charlestown and Boston. As years went on and 
attachment for the soil became stronger, a dread least some new 
charter, dictated by some hostile interests, might dispossess them^ 
prompted the worthies of this community to take a deed from the 



INTRODUCTORY. 5 

natives, original lords of the soil, to reinforce their rights. It can be 
found at the City Hall. This was in i6S6, when the settlement was 
sixty years old. Real estate was cheap in those days. The price paid 
was but twenty pounds. 

The Witchcraft Delusion, which caused many to flee from Salem for 
their lives two centuries ago novy brings thousands of visitors to Salem 
every year. Yet there are few people so unenlightened now-a-days as 
not to know that belief in witchcraft was world wide at that period; 
that it was the time and not the place which caused the reign of terror. 
Salem ought not to be held responsible by intelligent persons for the 
breaking of this cloud over her head, albeit she takes credit to herself 
that the general jail delivery, which took place within her borders the 
following year, was the forerunner of the breaking up of the miserable 
delusion throughout the civilized world. The judges acted under 
English law and were appointed by the Provincial Governor, and the 
majority of them who conducted the trials were not Salem men. The 
surprise is that they could sit and listen to such wretched stuff as they 
have placed on record to serve for evidence, without an overmastering 
sense of loathing and distrust. The delusion was however a fact, and 
relics of it may be found at the Court House where is preserved 
testimony from the trials, with the celebrated "Witch pins " produced 
in Court with which the prisoners were accused of torturing their 
victims. One death warrant has been preserved, and it is the original 
document. For seven months of the year 1692 did the proceedings 
rage and during that time nineteen supposed witches were hanged, four- 
teen of them being women, while Giles Corey who would not plead 
was pressed to death for his contumacy. 

The atmosphere is clear enough now, and walking through the quiet 
streets of Salem to-day it is impossible to realize that the pathos and 
tragedy of two hundred years ago were in lives and not in story. Yet 
no tragedy of fiction appeals to the heart as do the simple records of 
those tortured souls. 



6 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

The dwellings which most of the early Salemites built for their 
families, were plain and prim. The huge chimney stack, the over- 
hanging second story, and close proximity of these old houses to each 
other and to the street was the natural imitation of the thickly settled 
English towns from which they came. The Narbonne House (71 
Essex street) is an interesting specimen of the houses built before the 
witchcraft episode, for though ph\in, it has a distinctive flavor of the 
antique in its lines. The oldest house standing, so far as known, is the 
Roger Williams House built before 1635, at the corner of Essex and 
North streets. Roger Williams was one of the early ministers of the 
First Church, but the minister and magistrates not being harmonious, 
Williams it will be remembered fled to what was then the wilderness, 
— next the Providence Plantations, and now the vigorous little state of 
Rhode Island. If the stranger inquires for the "Witch House" he 
will be directed to this same dark scowling building which is set back 
far enough from the sidewalk for a drug store to stand in front of 
part of it. Unfortunately for those who love the mysterious, no witch 
ever played pranks under the roof and the only ground for the house 
being so named, is the tradition that some of the preliminary exam- 
inations took place there, it being at that time the residence of Justice 
Jonathan Corwin. Truth also compels the statement that the house 
has been altered since those historic days and this may not be the 
original roof at all. But if one would gaze upon a spot as genuinely 
connected with the witchcraft trials and not have his honest awe mis- 
placed, let him look across the street to No. 315 Essex street, which, 
as the home of the dyer Shattuck, figured in the trial of Bridget 
Bishop. 

The First Church as an organization and the lirst church as a struct- 
ure both survive. It is the history of the edifice that we will follow 
first. The original site is owned and occupied by the society to-day, 
one of the most vahiable corners in Salem, the southeast corner of 
Essex and Washington streets. For thirty-six years it served its pur- 



INTRODUCTORY. 7 

pose, but when in 1670 a second church was built on the same land it 
was voted that the old one "be reserved for the Town's use to build 
a skoole and watch-house.'' The records prove that the town made 
use of the building for nearly a hundred years but in 1760 the town 
having by this time found better quarters for itself, the venerable 
building was moved to the premises of one Thorndike Proctor, a local 
magnate, and was set up on land in the rear of what is now Boston 
street. Here it was used as a tavern or refreshment house. For an- 
other hundred years it lay dozing. But the interest for old time relics 
had begun, and the sleepy old meeting house was, through the liberal- 
ity of the late Francis Peabody, conveyed to the Essex Institute where 
it can now be seen. There is much new material about it by way of 
covering for the old beams, but the beams are the identical ones hewn 
out by those brave settlers in 1634. 

No city or town is quite complete without its house where Washing- 
ton has passed the night. It was with Joshua Ward, Esq., at 148 
Washington street, that the illustrious guest passed the night of 
Oct. 29, 1789. 

The birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne is a shrine to which pil- 
grims continually come to worship, and the devotee to genius must 
turn his steps to 27 Union street to view this plain frame house which 
was so unconscious of its coming importance, when on July 4, 1804, 
his birth took place. This is no place to give a sketch of his life ; and, 
indeed, the individual, zealous enough to seek the house where Haw- 
thorne first saw the light, needs but little information of the man and 
his works. The Salem Custom House is the same decorous place of 
business now as it was when Hawthorne made entries and romances 
there, but its principal interest comes of its association with the 
" Scarlet Letter." " The House of the Seven Gables " it is useless to 
search for, except within the covers of the fascinating book so named, 
for the author distinctly denied having any special house in mind, 
though several have been selected for the purpose by admiring 



8 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

readers. Among these the Ingersoll house, 54 Turner street, holds the 
only real claim to connection with the life of the author of the ro- 
mance. " The Grimshawe House " has an original at 53 Charter street, 
being the house where the novelist wooed and won his bride. Several 
houses were, at one time or another, the home of Hawthorne and detailed 
descriptions of them and of the sites made memorable in his writings 
will be found in a chapter of this Guide devoted to the purpose. 
There were many cultivated and distinguished people living in Salem 
with Hawthorne, but they did not know him well, because his peculiar 
temperament, shy, morbid even at times, caused him to shun society; 
his few chosen companions in his native city he may have consorted 
with either as quaint studies of human nature, or because they were 
congenial friends. 

Three distinct periods of house-building may be remarked as one 
walks Salem streets : the very old houses to which we have alluded ; 
the imposing mansions about the Common, near the Essex Institute, 
and on Chestnut street, which were built soon after this century was 
well on its way; and entirely modern houses that we find in different 
parts of the city. These recent arrivals seem to have nothing in com- 
mon with the old traditions of the place, and know of "Witch " or 
" Gallows Hill " only from hearsay, as does the visitor of to-day. 
From the Turnpike, after leaving Essex street and the street cars, can 
be seen on the right, this shambling hill, resting among the pastures. 
There the poor martyrs of 1692 were hanged. 

Derby street, with its evidences of past grandeur, leads to Derby 
wharf, and beyond to Phillips, formerly English's or India or Crown- 
inshield's wharf. In decades past, these wharves were lined with ships 
which Salem merchants had sent to every part of the world. There 
were Eastern ports where the names of New York and Philadelphia 
were hardly known, but where Salem, of such small stature among her 
sisters, was supposed to be the greatest city of America. In 1825 
there were one hundred and ninety-eight vessels owned in Salem, and 



IXTRODUCTORV. 9 

it was her ships which were the first from this country to display the 
American flag and open trade with St. Petersburg, Zanzibar, Sumatra, 
Calcutta, Bomba}', Batavia, Arabia, Madagascar and Australia. No 
one makes a living here now by spice brought from the Orient, and 
the merchant no longer waits in his counting room for ships to come 
in, but goes to Boston every day and waits for them there. Yet there 
come to Salem every year, and often in the hulls of once famous for- 
eign-trading ships, now transformed into coal barges, more tons of 
freight than the great fleet of smaller vessels brought here in the past. 



CHAPTER IL 

Points of Historic Interest. 

THERE are many places in Salem which the visitor will wish \o 
see because associated with the history of the city or the lives 
of distinguished men who were born or lived here. The dwellings of 
the early colonists have mostly gone to dust but, of later periods, 
there are many interesting relics remaining. 

Oldest Streets. — House-lots were laid out shortly after the arrival 
of Endicott in 1628. Washington street was laid out four rods wide, 
connecting the ways that ran along the borders of the North and 
South rivers, and is the oldest street in Salem. Probably Essex street 
originally ran along the rear ends of lots fronting on each river, and 
was the natural outgrowth of a town-way that came gradually into use. 
Among others of the very early streets may be mentioned Daniels, 
Elm and Central streets, which led to '• town landings " on the South 
river. 

Noted Historic Sites. — On the ground now covered by the Asiatic 
Building, Washington street, and facing the South river stood the 
dwelling house of the Rev. Francis Higginson, "Teacher" of the 
First Church 1629-30. John Higginson, his son and successor, died in 
1708, after preaching forty-eight years here and twenty more years 
elsewhere, — the Nestor Preacher of the colony,— and was buried in 
Governor Bradstreet's tomb in the Charter street cemetery. The 
house of the Rev. Samuel Skelton, the first pastor of the First Church 
(1630), was on land near the site of the police station, 15 Front street. 
On what is now the southwestcorner of Essex and Washington streets^ 

(10) 



POINTS OF HISTORIC INTEREST. II 

the site of Price Block, was the estate of the Rev. Hugh Peters, pas- 
tor of the First Church, i636-4[. Gov. Endicott's " Broadfield " was 
south and west of where Creek street now is. The location of the 
house of Governor Endicott has never been satisfactorily settled. It 
was "east of Washington street" and "south of the North River," 
possibly near where Federal street enters Washington from the east. 
A tradition exists to the effect that the house was moved about 1679 
to a spot where is now the corner of Washington street and Church 
street, once Eppes Lane. An old house on that spot was claimed a 
few years since as the Governor Endicott house. Small tack nails in 
a timber were thought to form the initials "I. E.," but on this point 
there has been much discussion. The building referred to has been 
moved back on Church street. Our best local antiquaries feel en- 
tirely satisfied that this house cannot have been Governor Endicott's 
but was the house of Daniel Eppes, town school master from 1677, 
who, in March, 1702 deeded the lane to the inhabitants of Salem out- 
right, — one of the very few public ways in this part of the world the 
fee of which is in the town. Roger Conant's house is generally be- 
lieved to have been on the site of the present Maynes Block, 202 
Essex street, opposite the market and John Woodbury, the "ffather 
Woodbury," of the "Old Planters" lived above about where Browne 
Block now stands. The fort, built by the early settlers, as a de- 
fence against Indian attacks, was at a point now the western corner 
of Sewall and Lynde streets, it being the highest ground in that por- 
tion of the city. 

John Winthrop landed in 1630, it is supposed, near the dike rock 
made interesting to science by Professor Hitchcock and figured in his 
report on the Geology of Massachusetts in 1841. It is at the foot of 
Bridge street, on the western side of the Salem end of Essex Bridge. 
The famous " Mayflower," in which the Pilgrims came to Plymouth in 
1620, made voyages later to Salem and many of the settlers undoubt- 
edly landed from her at about this point. 



12 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM- 

On the site of the house of the late Francis Peabody, next west of 
Plummer Hall, 136 Essex street, now the Armory of the Salem Cadets, 
stood the h»me of Emanuel Downing. He married a sister of Gov. 
Winthrop and his son George, graduated second in the first class at 
Harvard, gave his name to Downing street, London, and to an English 
College. Capt. Joseph Gardner, — the famous Indian fighter, — "the 
Fighting Joe " of the Narragansett wars, — married Downing's daughter, 
and became its life-tenant, and from this threshold he set forth, in 
1675, for the " Great Swamp Fight " which proved to be his last. His 
widow married Gov. Simon Bradstreet who lived and died here. Here, 
says Timothy Pickering, the 59th regiment of the line was halted on its 
way up from Salem Neck to disperse, with bayonet and ball, if need be, 
the Town Meeting of August 24, 1774, convened at our Town House. 

At the spot occupied by the new block of the Naumkeag Clothing 
Company, formerly number 205 Essex street, lived and died the won- 
derful Doctor Edward Augustus Holyoke. His career covered the ex- 
citing period of the century from 172S to 1828, and the Essex Institute 
has his professional journals recording, like a true disciple of Hip- 
pocrates, a medical practice of eighty years duration. He was the 
first president of the Essex Historical Society, — the friend and cor- 
respondent of leading men of science and letters, — active in every 
public enterprise, especially in the Salem and Boston Turnpike,— pre- 
sided at a dinner of the Massachusetts Medical Society given in his 
honor on his hundredth birthday, and lived for seven months there- 
after. His portrait is at the Essex Institute. 

Over the main doorway of the building numbered six on Central 
street, may be seen a large wooden eagle that decorated the same en- 
trance when the building was used as the Custom House. This was 
in 1805. 

Old houses are to be found in various parts of the city. The house 
with a projecting second story near the foot of St. Peter street was 
built by John Ward, in 1684 or thereabouts, on land which formerly 




\\urd House shoniug overhavging second story 
Narbonne House showing lean-to roof. 



POINTS OF HISTORIC INTEREST. 1 3 

belonged to Christopher Waller. This has incorrectly been called the 
\\'aller house, but Waller's house was near this and disappeared long 
ago. There is another house of similar style on the eastern side of 
\\'ashington street, north of Federal. The Narbonne house, 71 Essex 
street, was built prior to 16S0 and is one of the best examples in the 
city of houses of that period. The little corner shop is a very com- 
mon feature. 

The private residence, 13S Federal street, was built in 1782 and from 
that date until 1795 ^^'^^ a famous Assembly Hall. Here Lafayette 
was entertained in 1784, and Washington in 1789, and oratorios, con- 
certs, balls and dances were of frequent occurrence. It then became 
a private dwelling house and Judge Putnam is among those who have 
lived there. 

A walk or drive through the older streets of the city will prove of 
much interest to the stranger. In few cities are the old and new 
buildings so intermingled. Notable among these streets are Essex, 
Derby, High, Federal and many of the shorter streets in the lower part 
of the city. 

Many of the stately houses built during the first quarter of this cen- 
tury may be seen on Chestnut street, on Essex near Plummer Hall 
and around Washington square. Such houses as these were occupied 
by Salem merchants towards the close of her great commercial period. 

South Salem is the newest part of the city. In this section, La- 
fayette street contains residences of the more modern character, built 
most of them, within thirty years. One notable exception is the beau- 
tiful residence of the late E. Hersey Derby, at the corner of Ocean 
avenue. It was built prior to 1800, and is a fine specimen of the suburban 
residence of a gentleman of wealth of that period. 

The old building on Boston street. No. 49, with an arched window in 
its front gable, and now used as a currying shop, was once the meeting 
house of the Orthodox Congregational Society at Topsfield. It 
was built in 1769 on the site of the present church edifice at Topsfield. 



14 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

In 1816, the spire, being decayed, was taken down. The building was 
sold and removed to Salem in 1842-3. 

The Andrew House, 13 Washington square, erected by John An- 
drew in 1818, and a favorite visiting place of Gov. John A. Andrew in 
his youth, was spoken of at the time of its completion as the largest 
and most costly private residence in New England. It is a fine speci- 
men of the architecture of the early portion of this century. Gov. An- 
drew never abandoned the hope of living there. 

The Boardman House, at the corner of Washington square and 
Boardman street, which, with slight, modern additions, still preserves 
its original appearance, attracted the attention of Washington when 
visiting Salem in 1789 by the beauty of its architectural proportions. 
It was then new, and had been offered for the use of Washington. 

The Pickman House, at the rear of the low shops west of East 
India Marine Hall, was built by Col. Benjamin Pickman in 1748. It 
was beautifully furnished and decorated. The Provincial Governor 
Pownall was entertained here Oct. 22, 1757; Count Castiglioni, June 
23, 1784, and Alexander Hamilton, June 20, 1800. 

Roger Williams House. — This house is on the northwest corner of 
Essex and North streets, and is numbered 310 Essex street. It was 
owned in 1635-6, by Roger Williams, who was "Teacher" of the First 
Church for a few months in 1631, again in 1633, and Minister in 1634-5. 
Thus the people of Salem persistently sought Mr. Williams as teacher 
and pastor, but the General Court at Boston unseated the Salem dep- 
uties for the acts of their constituents in retaining him, and finally the 
magistrates sent a vessel to Salem to remove Mr. Williams to Eng- 
land, but he eluded them by fleeing through wintry snows into 
the wilderness, to become the founder of the State of Rhode Island. 
Mr. .Williams was the close friend and confidential adviser of Gov. 
Endicott, and those who were alarmed at the Governor's impetuosity 
in cutting the cross from the King's colors attributed the act to the in- 
fluence of Williams. In taking his departure from the old house to 



POINTS OF HISTORIC INTEREST. 



15 



make his way to freedom, Williams had no guide save a pocket com- 
pass which his descendants still exhibit, and no reliance but the 
friendly disposition of the Indians. 

The house here referred to is familiarly called the "Old Witch 
House," from the fact that a tradition exists that preliminary examin- 
ations in the witchcraft cases were held in one of its rooms. The 
house was occupied at that time by Jonathan Corwin, one of the judges 
in the witchcraft trials. This is the oldest house in Salem or the vicin- 
ity. Visitors are admitted on application at the building. A drawing 
of the house as it was in its early days may be seen at the Essex In- 
stitute. 

Birthplace of Timothy Pickering. — This house, 18 Broad street, 
just above Cambridge, was built in 1649-51 by John Pickering, who in 
1639 had enlarged the First church. Timothy Pickering was the illustri- 
ous member of the family, and among the distinguished men of Rev- 
olutionary times. He was a Colonel and Adjutant General. He was 
prominent among the doughty men who held the North Bridge. He 
fought at the battles of Germantown and Brandyvvine ; while as states- 
man he held the offices of Representative and Senator, and in Washing- 
ton's cabinet, at different times, of Postmaster-General, Secretary of 
War, and Secretary of State. Both his father and his son were persons 
of distinction. The homestead is now occupied by a John Pickering, 
directly descended from the ancestor who built it, and at no time 
since its construction has it passed out of the possession of the family. 
Colonel Pickering's death took place Jan. 29, 1829, in the house num- 
bered 29 Warren street, where he was then residing. This house was 
the home of Judge Brigham, formerly Chief Justice of the Superior 
Court of Massachusetts, who lately died there. 

Nathaniel BowDiTCH was born March 26, 1773, in a house which 
formerly stood on Brown street but is now on Kimball court in the 
rear of number 2 Brown street, its former site. Rev. Samuel Johnson, 
a noted liberal preacher, the eminent author of '' Oriental Religions," 



l6 VISITOR S CxUIDE TO SALEM. 

was also born in this house. Dr. Bowditch lived during the last years of 
his residence in Salem in the house now numbered 312 Essex street. 
The desk at which he translated La Place is at the Essex Institute. 

Benjamin Thompson, afterwards Count Rumford, was born in Wo- 
burn in 1753. He m.oved to Salem and was employed in the shop of 
John i^ppleton in 1766, which was in a building afterwards the dwell- 
ing of the Choate family, number 314 Essex street. There is a bill 
from this shop receipted with his signature preserved at the Essex In- 
stitute. After serving in the British army during the latter part of the 
Revolutionary War, he went to Bavaria and in time became com- 
mander-in-chief of the Bavarian army and was made Count Rumford. 
He was eminent in science and as an author. A statue to his memory 
ornaments one of the avenues in the city of Munich. Rumford ovens, 
invented by him, are to be found in many of the larger of the old 
Salem houses where even now they are sometimes used. 

William Hickling Prescott, D.C.L., the historian, author of 
"Conquest of Mexico," "Ferdinand and Isabella," and "Philip 
Second," was born in a house standing on the site now occupied by 
Plumifier Hall, pictures of which may be seen at the Essex Institute. 
This house was built by Nathan Read who studied medicine with 
Dr. Holyoke and kept a shop in Salem, and who in 1789 successfully 
tested a paddle-wheel steamboat in the waters of the Danvers and 
North rivers, starting from his iron mill at Danversport. On board 
were John Hancock, then governor, Nathan Dane and Rev, Dr. 
Prince and Dr. Holyoke of Salem. Nathan Read also built the fine 
country house known as the Porter Farm at Danversport, and manu- 
factured the first cut nails by machinery of his own invention. 

Benjamin Pierce was born in the house in the "Tontine Block," 
numbered 35 Warren street. Professor of mathematics in Harvard 
College, he was among the most eminent men in his special work not 
only in this country but in the world. He made, while at the head of 
the U. S. Coast Survey, a change in the standard time of the continent, 



POINTS OF HISTORIC INTEREST. 



17 



by establishing the meridians which now regulate and control it, and 
thus, a single scientist, without power or authority, except the faiih 
which the country had in his knowledge, reset every timepiece in 
America. 

John Pickering, LL.D., the Greek lexicographer, born in Salem in 
1777, lived in the house number 18 Chestnut street, having previously 
built a larger house on the opposite side of the same street. He died 
in Bo.ston in 1846. He was a son of CoL Timothy Pickering. 

Joseph E. Worcester, compiler of the Worcester dictionar}-, kept 
a school in a building on the hill west of the Federal street Baptist 
church. He was one of the instructors of Nathaniel Hawthorne. 

Miss Caroline Plummer, the founder by will of the Plummer 
Farm School and the donor likewise of the fund from which Plummer 
Hall was built, lived in a fine gambrel-roofed house on the site of the 
Public Library. Miss Plummer's grave is in the Broad street ceme- 
tery. 

Benjamin Lynde, Chief Justice of the Province of Massachusetts 
Bay 1729-174S, and his son bearing the same name and holding the 
same office, and Judge Andrew Oliver, son of Lieutenant Governor 
Oliver, in turn occupied the house which stood on the present site of 
Lynde Block on Essex street, at the corner of Liberty. Here the 
Provincial Governor Belcher was the guest of Benjamin Lynde, Jr., 
February 28, 1739. 

Judge Joseph Story resided in the brick house built by him in 
1811, number 26 Winter street. Here William Wetmore Story, the 
noted author and sculptor, was born February 12, 1819. The cradle of 
Joseph and William W. Story is now at the Essex Institute. General 
Lafayette was entertained here in 1824. Judge Story seems to have 
had an office when he first came to Salem from Marblehead, on the 
second floor of a wooden building on the lot now occupied by the 
brick Shepard block of residences, corner of North and Essex streets. 
He also had an office on Washington street near Lynde. Finally he 



l8 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

built a wooden office on the westerly side of his Winter street res- 
idence, on land now owned by Mr. Odell, and when the Story estate 
passed into other hands, this office was removed to Norman street, 
where it now stands incorporated into the buildings of the Cox estate. 

In the house numbered 17 Winter street, corner of Pickman, Gov. 
Lincoln was entertained by Rev. Dr. Pirazier, and Gov. Andrew by Hon. 
R. S. Rantoul. 

RuFUS Choate, the eminent orator and advocate, while living in 
Salem, occupied the house numbered 14 Lynde street. 

Benjamin Goodhue, U. S. Senator from 1796 to 1800, occupied the 
house number 403 Essex street. He was born Sept. 20, 174S. 

Nathaniel Silsbee, U. S. Senator from 1826 to 1835, was born in the 
ancient house on Daniels street, number 27-9, below Derby street. In 
after life he built and lived in the large brick mansion, 94 Washington 
square, which, however, has since then been much altered and moder- 
nized. In this house Daniel Webster, Henry Clay and other dis- 
tinguished persons have been entertained. 

William Gray was born in Lynn in 1760. He came to Salem at an 
early age and became one of the greatest merchants and ship owners 
in the country. His counting room was primitive in the extreme and 
is interesting in comparison with the offices of the merchants of the 
present day. It was in the large warehouse number 31 1 Derby street, 
now occupied by Messrs. J. P. Langmaid & Sons. William Gray was 
Lt. Governor of Massachusetts in 1810-11. He died in Boston in 1825. 
At the close of the Revolution, when several ''absentee " estates were 
in the market, William Gray bought at public vendue the property on 
Essex street where the Bowker Block now stands, confiscated on ac- 
count of the course taken by William Brown. It was a large and 
stately mansion standing eighteen feet back from the street. Here 
Mr. Gray lived until, in 1800, he bought the Sun Tavern nearly oppo- 
site the head of Market, now Central street, where he erected the 
magnificent mansion house which has been our central hostelry since 




Miles Ward House {sbowing gambrel roof nnd porch.) 

Cabot House (Sbowiug gambrel roof about 1748). 



POINTS OF HISTORIC INTEREST. I9 

Mr. Gray left Salem in 1809. His former residence became in turn in 
1800 the Sun Tavern and the old sign which is now preserved by the 
Danvers Historical Society, was hung there until 1828. The new hotel 
was called the Essex Coffee House in 1814, and still goes by that name 
among some of the old residents. When Lafayette came to Salem in 
1824, the house was called the Lafayette Coffee House, in his honor, 
but only for a short time. A fine old fireplace and mantel was in the 
office and a pictorial paper, representing scenes in the French Revolu- 
tion, covered, until within a few years, the walls of the parlor. Tav- 
erns have occupied sites in this neighborhood from the earliest history 
ot Salem, the " King's Arms Tavern " was just w^est of it and later thi 
Mansion House. 

Benjamin W. Crowninshield, Representative in Congress, U. S. 
Senator and Secretary of the Navy under Presidents Madison from 
1814 to 1818, built and occupied the mansion 180 Derby street, at pres- 
ent the Old Ladies' Home (which see). Here President Monroe was 
entertained at dinner on July 9, 1817, when Commodores Bainbridge 
and Perry were also guests. 

William C. Endicott, Judge of the Supreme Court of Massachu- 
setts and Secretary of War in President Cleveland's cabinet, lived for 
thirty years in the fine colonial mansion, number 365 Essex street. 
This house was built by Joseph Cabot in 174S. Judge Endicott was 
born in the Crowninshield house, last mentioned, on Derby street. 

George B. Loring, Member of Congress, and Commissioner of Ag- 
riculture under Presidents Garfield and Arthur and Minister to Portu- 
gal under Harrison, resided in the house, now much altered, number 
328 Essex street; his summer home was the Pickman Farm about 
three miles from Salem on Loring avenue. 

General William Cogswell lived in the West Block on Summer 
street at number 7. He was born in Bradford, Mass., August 23, 
183S. Educated at Dartmouth College and the Harvard Law School 
he was admitted to the Essex Bar in 1S60. At one o'clock of the after- 



20 ^ VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

noon of April 19, i86r, he heard the news of the firing on Fort Sumpter, 
at once turned his law office (Ropes' Building-, 214 Essex street), into 
a recruiting office and in 24 hours raised a company of 100 men, the 
first company raised for the war. He took part in many important 
battles, was three times wounded, rose to the rank of a Brigadier 
General, and served continuously to the close of the war. He was 
five times chosen Mayor of Salem, four years in the Massachusetts 
House of Representatives and Senate, and in 1886, was elected to 
Congress and there represented the "Old Essex District" until his 
death at Washington, May 22, 1895. ^is funeral at Salem, May 24, 
was in charge of the City Government and was conducted with the 
highest military honors, the body lying in state at City Hall. The 
services at Tabernacle Church were attended by the Governor and 
Lt. Governor of the State, Senators, Members of Congress, and 
numerous other United States, State and City officials. At the grave 
in Harmony Grove Cemetery thousands of citizens from the whole 
county around crowded the adjacent hill-side and witnessed, in 
impressive silence, the final services. 

Samuel Macintire (also spelled M'Intire, Mclntire and Mackintire), 
has left behind many beautiful memorials testifying to his skill as a 
carver and his grace as an architect. His father and his brother were 
"house Wrights." in Salem, and a nephew, Joseph, continued in Salem 
as a carver, living in a house near the South Church on the site of 
number 6 Chestnut street, until his death in 1852. Samuel Macintire 
was born in 1757 and died in 1811. He appears to have been an uni- 
versal genius for he was an amateur musician and quite skilful as an 
organist ; as an architect he deserves to rank with Bulfinch and had he 
lived would undoubtedly have been called upon to design some of the 
many public buildings which were soon erected. Among the most 
famous of his works are the South Church on Chestnut street, still 
standing as he left it in 1805, Hamilton Hall opposite it, the Cook- 
Oliver house, 142 Federal street, the old Assembly Hall below it, 138, 



POINTS OF HISTORIC INTEREST. 21 

and the Nichols house number 80 on the same street; also the brick 
dwelling number 12S Essex street. These are all standing practically 
in their original condition, but the palatial Derby mansion, which was 
built in 1799 on the site of the present market house, and the Court 
House of 17S5. on Washington street, two of his best works are, 
unfortunate!}', only preserved to us in picture. The spire of the Park 
street church in Boston was his design, if not the entire building. 
Many ornate fence posts with their surmounting urns are still to be 
seen about Salem, and are continually copied by modern architects. 
Several of his carvings are to be seen at the Essex Institute and the 
eagle on the City Hall and the one upon the Brookhouse mansion 
opposite are from his hand ; as well as a mammoth pear in the 
collection of the Essex Institute, and the wonderfully depicted head 
and hands of the Chinese Mandarin carved for the East India Marine 
Society in 1801 and now in the Peabody Academy museum. Very few 
of his architectural drawings have been preserved and these are 
merely rough notes and memoranda. He designed and carved the 
figure heads and other ornamentation used on ships. His grave is in 
the Charter street cemetery, the modest slate headstone bearing be- 
fitting testimony to his worth as an artist and his christian character. 
John Rogers, whose character "groups" are familiar everywhere, 
was born Oct. 30, 1829, in the house on the southern corner of Wash- 
ington and Lynde streets. John P. Derby was also born in this 
house, and while Lieutenant of the Engineer Corps, U. S. A., under 
the name of "John Phoenix," attained celebrity as a humorous writer. 
The house itself is of much interest and beauty and well illustrates the 
style of architecture prevailing just before the Revolutionary war. It 
•was built in 1764, by the Hon. Benjamin Pickman and is now in 
process of reconstruction for business purposes. In one of the 
blinds on a window of the cupola is a space left, through which a spy 
glass could be used to watch for in-coming ships. The eagle on the 
top of the cupola is, like several others in Salem, the work of Macintire. 



22 visitor's guide TO SALEM. 

This house was occupied by Elias Haskett Derby during the years 
of his greatest commercial activity, and until a few months before his 
death, when he removed to his new and elegant mansion on the pres- 
ent market house site which cost $90,000 and was taken down sixteen 
years later to give place to the market and Town Hall. 

William Frederick Poole, the head of the Newberry Library 
of Chicago, was born in Salem, Dec. 24, 1821. The boundary lines 
having since been changed, the house is now within the limits of 
Peabody, the second house below Pierpont St., numbered 133 Main 
Street. Mr. Poole had been librarian of the Boston Athenaeum, 
Cincinnati Public Library and the Chicago Public Library and was 
one of the leading librarians in the country and a frequent contrib- 
utor to historical and literary publications. He died at Chicago in 
March, 1894. A portrait of him is about to be hung on the walls of 
the Salem Public Library, a gift from his son-in-law, F. Swift Holbrook, 
Esq., of Chicago. 

The Statue of Rev. Theobald Mathew, the apostle of temperance, 
who visited Salem, Sept. 19, 1849, was erected on Central street, and 
dedicated October, 1887. By a singular coincidence, it was placed on 
the spot where flowed a spring from which the early settlers of Salem 
obtained water. Neff's Lane, now Central street, led down to it. 

First Provincial Congress. — In Salem, on October 5, 1774, assem- 
bled the First Provincial Congress, which passed during its session a 
vote renouncing the authority of the British Parliament, — the first 
formal act of the Province putting itself in open opposition to the 
home government. The building thus made famous stood in Town 
House square, but unfortunately no picture of it is known to exist. A 
tablet on the northwest corner of the First Church recording the 
events of the time is inscribed as follows : 

Three rods west of this spot 

stood, from 1718 until 1785, 

THE TOWN HOUSE. 



points of historic interest. 2 

Here Governor Burnet convened 

the general court in 1728 and 1729. 

a town meeting held here in 1765 

protested against the stamp act, 

and another, in 1769, 

denounced the tax on tea. 

Here met, in 1774, the last general assembly 

OF THE Province of the Massachusetts Bay, 

WHICH, June 17, in defiance of (Governor Gage, 

CHOSE delegates TO 

THE FIRST CONTINENTAL CONGRESS. 
The house of assembly was thereupon dissolved, 

AND THE ELECTION OF A NEW HOUSE, TO MEET AT SalEM, 

was ordered by the governor, but this, 

by later proclamation, he refused to recognize. 

In contempt of his authority the members met 

in this toavn house, october 5, 

and after organizing resolved themselves into 

A PROVINCIAL CONGRESS, 

AND ADJOURNED TO CONCORD, 
THERE TO ACT WITH OTHER DELEGATES AS 

THE First Provincial Congress of Massachusetts. 

The North Bridge : first effective resistance to British au- 
THORirv.— The North Bridge is on North street, just beyond the in- 



24 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

tersection of Bridge street. Here, on Sunday, Feb. 26, 1775, the 
townspeople assembled, and forbade the farther advance of Col. Leslie 
and a body of the King's Regulars, who had landed at Marblehead 
and marched to Salem in search of cannon believed to be concealed 
in "North Fields." This was the first opposition to the military au- 
thority of Great Britain. One of the crowd is said to have received a 
bayonet wound from a British soldier. A memorial tablet of bronze 
inserted in an upright block of granite was placed at the North Bridge 
in I S87 by the city authorities. It bears this inscription: 

In the 
REVOLUTION 

THE FIRST 

ARMED RESISTANCE 

TO THE 

Royal Authority 

was made at this 

BRIDGE, 

26 Feb., 1775, 

By THE PEOPLE OF 

SALEM. 

The advaxce of 300 British 

Troops led by Lt. Col. Leslie 

AND SENT BY GeN. GaGE TO SEIZE 
munitions of war, was HERE 

ARRESTED. 



POINTS OF HISTORIC INTEREST. 25 

Col. Timothy Pickering, then Register of Deeds ; an ardent 
patriot and militiaman,— was the central figure, but several other 
Salem citizens were prominent in the affair. Richard Derby who 
owned the guns was there. Rev. Thomas Barnard, pastor of the 
North Church, who acted the part of peacemaker, lived in the large 
gambrel-roofed house number 393 Essex street, now standing among 
noble elms and buttonwoods. Robert Foster had his shop just be- 
yond the bridge where the cannon were being put in order. James 
Barr, who scuttled his "gundalow " to prevent the British troops from 
crossing the river in it, lived in the house now number 25 Lynde 
street. Capt. David Mason, who shouted the alarm at the door of the 
North Church, lived near by. Capt. John Felt, who warned Colonel 
Leslie of the determined resistance on the part of the volunteers, 
lived in a house on Lynde street, since moved to Federal street and 
numbered 47. Gen. Gage reported to his government that the guns 
had no existence. 

It is supposed to have been near the North Bridge that Governor 
Winthrop's son, Henry, was drowned July 2, 1630. He had arrived in 
the ship "Talbot," July i, and was crossing the North River on the 
following day to visit an Indian settlement, when he was drowned. 

During the Revolutionary War, Salem furnished a very large quota 
of men to fill the ranks of the army, and fitted out at least 158 vessels 
as privateers. 

In the war of 1812, forty armed vessels of the 250 furnished by the 
whole country were from Salem. The celebrated naval battle between 
the "Chesapeake " and " Shannon " was fought so near the shore that 
it was witnessed by many from the higher hills of Salem and this 
neighborhood. This was on June i, 18 13. On the twenty-third of 
August, the bodies of Captain Lawrence and Lieutenant Ludlow of 
the " Chesapeake," who were killed in the engagement, were brought 
to Salem, and landed at India (now Phillips) wharf, thence taken to 
the Howard street church (since removed ; site of Prescott school 



26 visitor's guide to SALEM- 

house, Howard street), where the funeral was held, with great pomp 
and a famous eulogy delivered by Judge Story. 

During the war of 1861-5, more than 3000 men entered the Union 
service from this city, and moie than 2co were killed. Among her he- 
roes were Brig. Gen. Frederick W. Lander, Lt. Col. Henry Merritt, 
Lt. Col. John Hodges, Major Seth S. Buxton, Capts. George W. 
Batchelder, Charles A. Dearborn, John Saunders, Lts. Chas. G. Ward, 
Pickering D. Allen, George C. Bancroft and Charles F. Williams, all 
of whom lost their lives in the service of their country. 

President Washington entered Salem from Marblehead, October 
29, 1789, in the afternoon. There is evidence that he had been here 
before as a young man on a visit to the Clark family, and perhaps 
also during the siege of Boston. 

Passing from Lafayette street then a rural lane with gates across it, 
through Mill, High and Summer streets to upper Federal street, and 
thence down Federal, reviewing the military, to the Court House in 
front of the Tabernacle Church, then a new work of Samuel Macin- 
tire. Here he stood on a balcony while odes were sung and welcomes 
tendered and the people shouted themselves hoarse. Senator Good- 
hue presented him the formal address. Here too his features were 
scanned by Macintire seated at a window near by, and a profile bas 
relief executed in wood which adorned for years the fine architectural 
gateway at the western entrance of the common was the result of a 
sketch then made. This is now at the Essex Institute. Later the Presi- 
dent called at the house of Major Saunders who commanded his body 
guard the Cadets, and between seven and nine o'clock honored with 
his presence a ball at the Assembly House. There were guns and 
bells and flights of rockets and the Court House was illuminated. The 
President passed the night in the north-east chamber, second floor, of 
the mansion of Joshua Ward, now numbered 148 in the street ever 
since called Washington street, a fine brick mansion house placed at 
his service by the family. He left for Beverly and the east in the 
morning. In his famous diary he made this entry : " Between 7 and 8 




Gallows Hill. 



Sbattuck House. 



POINTS OF HISTORIC INTEREST. 27 

o'clock went to assembly, where there was at least a hundred handsome 

and well dressed ladies, a greater proportion with 

much blacker hair than are usually seen in the Southern States." 

John Adams frequently visited Salem, as a young lawyer, riding the 
eastern circuit, stopping with his "brother Cranch " who lived in the 
old house on Mill street, just beyond the corner of Norman. Describ- 
ing the house, which is still standing, Mr. Adams writes in his journal 
while visiting there, Nov. 3, 1766, "Cranch is now in a good situation 
for business near the Court House . . . his house, fronting on the 
wharves, the harbor and the shipping, has a fine prospect before it." 
"Brother Cranch's" son William became the celebrated Judge Cranch 
of the U. S. Supreme Court in 1805. 

President Monroe arrived in Salem from Marblehead on Tuesday, 
the eighth of July, 1817, and took possession of the Derby street 
mansion of his Secretary of the Navy, the Hon. Benjamin W. Crown- 
inshield, now the Old Ladies' Home, then vacated and made ready for 
his sojourn. He was magnificently received at the new Town Hall 
(then first used) in the evening, for this was the "era of good feeling " 
and all parties were on their best behavior. Next day he lunched 
with Senator Silsbee at Washington Square — (number 94), dined at 
Secretary Crowninshield's with such company as Commodores Perry 
and Bainbridge, General Miller, William Gray and other Salem mag- 
nates, and was entertained in the evening by Judge Story at his house 
in Winter street (number 26). On Thursday, the tenth, he breakfasted 
with Colonel Thorndike in Beverly (house now the City Hall) and this 
round of festivities went on until Friday evening, when he attended a 
ball at the house of Stephen White, number 31 Washington Square. 
He left Salem for the east on Saturday morning. 

President John Quincy Adams visited Salem on several occasions. 
He was present at the dinner and made an address at the dedication 
of East India Marine Hall, Oct. 14, 1825. 

President Jackson visited Salem, June 26, 1833, and passed the 



28 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

night at the Mansion House which was placed at his disposal by its 
owner, Cap.\ Nathaniel West. This house was a little back from Essex 
street, opposite Central, on the site of the old ''King's Arms" tavern. 
On the following day he visited the museum of the East India Marine 
Society and other points of interest before breakfast, and left at nine 
o'clock for Lowell. 

President Polk passed through Salem on July 5, 1847, during a 
pouring rain, but did not leave his carriage to visit places of interest. 

President Grant passed through Salem on the morning of Oct. 17, 
I S71, and was received by the city government, on a temporary plat- 
form erected in Washington street to which the President stepped 
from his car, and from which he addressed a few words to the people. 

President Arthur made a short stop here on Sept. 8, 1882, coming 
from Marblehead. He visited the museum of the Peabody Academy, 
and the Essex Institute and drove back to Marblehead and to the 
Neck, where he was entertained, having landed from theU. S. steamer 
" Despatch " while on a cruise, in eastern waters. 

Ex-President Benjamin Harrison, was in Salem August 12, 1893, 
coming from Beverly where he was the guest of a daughter. He 
visited the museums of the Peabody Academy of Science and the 
Essex Institute. 

General Lafayette visited Salem Oct. 29, 1784, w^as entertained 
at a public dinner and in the evening he attended a ball in the As- 
sembly Hall on Federal street. He was in Salem, again, Aug. 31, 
1S24, when he was accorded a grand reception by sailors at the hill on 
Lafayette street and by the school children on the common. He was 
welcomed by Judge Story in front of the Essex House on his arrival. 
He dined at Hamilton Hall, with three hundred guests, and was en- 
tertained by Judge Story at 26 Winter street in the evening. That 
the Marquis was pleased with his reception in Salem appears from two 
accounts of his American tour, printed in France on his return home. 
At page 57 of a work entitled "Voyage du General Lafayette aux 



POINTS OF HISTORIC INTEREST. 29 

Etats-Unis d'Amerique: Paris: 1826," may be read these words, 
"Dans chacune de ces villes, il fut I'objet des memes hommages; 
mais ce fut a Salem que Teclat de sa reception se fit particulierement 
remarquer: la pluie qui tombait par torrents ne ralentit le zele de 
personne. Vainement, dans cette ville et a Be'verly, il voulut con- 
gedier les escortes civiques qui I'accompagnaient ; les enfants eux 
memes refuserent cette fois de lui obeir."* 

Like sentiments elaborated at greater length will be found at pages 
139-141 of volume one of "Lafayette en Ame'rique. Journal par Le- 
vasseur, secre'taire du General Lafayette, iS'29." 

Jonathan Haraden, the indomitable commander of the Revolution- 
ary privateer "Gen. Pickering," lived in the house opposite the Salem 
Hospital, since altered to a double tenement and now numbered 32 
and 34 on Charter street. 

Gen. James Miller, the hero of " Lundy's Lane" and celebrated 
for his modest words "I'll try. Sir," lived in the eastern side of the 
Crowninshield house on Derby street, now the Old Ladies' Home. 
He was Collector of the Port of Salem and Beverly from 1825 to 1849. 

Louis Kossuth, the Hungarian patriot was entertained in Salem, 
May 6, 1852. He was welcomed by the mayor, Hon. Charles W. Up- 
ham, in front of the Essex house and later was driven about the city. 

General McClellan passed the day in Salem, Feb. 5, 1863, — was 
tendered a public reception at the Essex House in the morning, and, 
later, an elegant breakfast at the mansion of George Peabody, now 
the home of the " Salem Club " in Washington Square. 

General Sheridan paid a long promised visit to Salem and Grand 
Army Post 34, which has always borne his name, Feb. 2, 188S. He 



*ln each of these towns, he was the object of the same demonstrations; but it was at 
Salem that the brilliancy of his reception was particularly uiarkeil; the rain which fell in 
torrents did not damp the ardor of any body. Here and at Beverly he attempted in vain 
to dismiss the civil escorts which attended "him; the very childreii, for once, refused tu 
obey him. 



30 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

was received by the municipal authorities at the city hall, and by Post 
34, and he presented the Post, on leaving, with a signed likeness of 
himself. 

General Sherman passed the day, August 15, 1890, in company 
with the Right Honorable Joseph Chamberlain, M.P., for Birming- 
ham, England, at the Cabot mansion, then the residence of ex-Sec- 
retary of War Endicott, on Essex street opposite Monroe street. 

Gen. Frederick W. Lander, a brave officer who fell early in the 
war of the rebellion, was born in the house number 5 Birton Square. 

Gen. Frederick T. Ward was born, in 1 831, in the house at the 
eastern corner of Derby and Carlton streets. His life was a romantic 
and adventurous one. He obtained his title by organizing and drilling 
Chinese troops, which, under his leadership, g.iined so many victories 
during the Tai Ping rebellion that it was known as the "ever victori- 
ous army." After his death the English General Gordon was ap- 
pointed to succeed him. His portrait, the gift of his sister, is at the 
Essex Institute. 

General Henry K. Oliver, the author of " Federal Street," Mayor 
of Lawrence and of Salem, — almost the organizer of Lawrence, in a 
municipal sense, for he was her first mayor and arranged the plan of 
her parks, public buildings, schools and churches, securing unity in 
the general design, and choosing all the bells to be placed on engine 
houses, cotton mills, schools and other buildings so that they made a 
harmonious chime,— lived a large part of his life and died at 143 Fed- 
eral street. He was at different times a teacher in Salem, organist of 
the North Church, Adjutant General, and Treasurer and Receiver 
General of the State, musical composer and singer, treasurer of Law- 
rence Mills, and mayor of two cities. 

Witchcraft Sites in Salem. The personal memorials of the 
witchcraft delusion must, of course, be looked for chiefiy in the town 
of Danvers (Salem Village, 1692: now Danvers Centre, Danvers 
Plains, and portions of Peabody, Beverl}-, Middleton and Topsfield), 



POINTS OF HISTORIC INTEREST. 3I 

where most of the personages connected with the events of that time 
lived. In Salem, however, are the otBcial reminders of the delusion, 
for here the court appointed by the Provincial Governor, Phipps, who 
had himself but just received office from the Crown, held the trials, 
and here, too, the executions ordered by that court took place and 
such records of that court as still remain are preserved. Few build- 
ings in Salem to-day can trace their history back to a connection with 
the events of 1692 and the list of sites given here which are made 
memorable by those events must be visited from sentimental feeling 
rather than with the expectation of obtaining a picture of the past. 
Such buildings and other objects as still possess a direct connection 
with the witchcraft times are specially noticed. 

The Meeting House, where the examination before Deputy Gov- 
ernor Danforth and others of the council took place, was the First 
Church (a building removed in 1718) the site of which is occupied by 
the present church edifice at the corner of Essex and Washington 
streets. These examinations were made April 11, 1692, after others 
had been held in the smaller meeting-house at Salem Village (now 
Danvers Centre) by the local magistrates Corwin and Hathorne. 
This assumption of authority by the government (Upham 11, p. 113), 
changed the character of the whole matter. "Before it had been a 
Salem affair. Now it was a Massachusetts affair." 

The Court House in which subsequently the trials took place by 
the special court appointed by the governor, was in Washington street, 
at a point opposite the bronze tablet which will be found near the cor- 
ner of Washington and Lynde streets, and which fully records the 
fact as follows : — 

Nearly opposite this spot 

stood, in the middle of the street, 

a building devoted, from 1677 until 1718, 

to municipal and judicial uses. 



32 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

In it. IX 1692, 

WEIU-: TRIED AND CUXDEMNED FOR WITCHCRAFT 

MOST OF THE NINETEE.V PERSONS 

WHO SUFFERED DEATH ON THE GALLOWS. 

GILES COREY was here put to trial 
ON the same charge, and, rkfusing to plead, 
was taken away and pressed to death. 
In January, 1693, twenty-one persons 

WKRE tried here FOR WITCHCRAFT, 

OF WHOM EIGHTEEN WKRE ACQUITTED AND 

THRKE CONDEMNED, BUT LATER SET FREE, 

TOGETHER W^ITH ABOUT 150 ACCUSED PERSONS, 

IN A GENERAL DELIVERY WHICH OCCURRED IN MAY. 

Giles Corey, after pleading "not guilty,'' refused to "put himself 
upon his country," and therefore could not be tried by jury, and for 
this, as provided by immemorial law and usage of the realm, he was 
pressed to death. 

The Documents including the one death warrant remaining, that of 
Bridget Bishop, with the record of her execution, and the pins said to 
have been used by the accused persons to inflict torture upon their 
victims, will be found in the new court house in the room of the clerk 
of the Court, on the lower floor. 

The Jail was near St. Peter street, and the house, number 4 Federal 
street, is supposed to contain a portion of the original frame of the 
building, which was of wood. The great " jail delivery" was in May, 
1693. 

The Route to "Gallows Hill," by which the prisoners were 



POINTS OF HISTORIC INTEREST. 3^ 

taken to execution "in a cart," was from the jail through St. Peter, 
Essex and Boston streets, nearly to Aborn, thence, turning back in 
order to ascend the least precipitous slope of the hill, to the highest 
point at its southern end, now approached almost in a direct line from 
Boston street through Hanson. Here nineteen persons were hanged. 

The visitor who seeks here the spot where witches were burned will 
seek in vain. Contrary to universal report, no human being was ever 
burned on a charge of witchcraft in Massachusetts. The nineteen 
persons executed were all hanged to a tree. The bald facts of the 
case are bad enough and we must suffer for them. Let us not suffer 
also from reckless mis-statement. If there be any gleam of sunlight 
breaking through the gloom, — any silver lining behind the dismal 
cloud, — perhaps it will be found in this, that the executions at Salem 
gave the needed shock to public sensibility, and put an immediate 
and effectual stop to the whole inhuman work. 

A movement is being made, under the auspices of the Essex Insti- 
tute, to place upon the summit of this hill a suitable monument to the 
memory of those, whose martyrdom took place there and to commem- 
orate, also, the general jail delivery in 1693, ^^^ forerunner of the 
breaking away from the delusion throughout the world. If this 
miserable business could mark the end of all fanaticisms, doubtless 
the monument would be a high one. 

Nicholas Noyes, the minister of the First Church, lived in a house 
west of the court*house, or where the recording tablet is now placed on 
Washington street. 

GeoI^ge Corwin, the high sheriff, lived on the site of the Joshua 
Ward house, 14S Washington street. 

Judge Jonathan Corwin's House was the " Witch House," or 
more appropriately and pleasantly remembered as Roger Williams' 
house (of which see account) at the corner of Essex and North streets. 
The interior and chimney are in much the same state as at the time 
when it was occupied by the Judge. 



34 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

The site of Judge Gedney's House is in doubt, but it is probable 
that it was the so-called "French House," once used as the custom 
house, and which stood near the present Gedney court, off Summer 
street. 

ThOxMas Beadle's Tavern was on Essex street site of number 67. 
Some examinations of persons accused of witchcraft took place here. 

Samuel Beadle's Tavern was near the jail and stood at a point 
now the southern corner of Church and St. Peter streets. Entertain- 
ment for man and beast was here found by those connected with the 
trials. 

The " Ship Tavern," known as " Widow Gedney's," was opposite 
Central street, on P^ssex. 

Robinson's Tavern was on the eastern corner of VVashingtor square 
Essex street. It was near here, on the way to his home (on Daniels 
street) late at night, evidently under the influence of Samuel Beadle's 
liquor, that Westgate saw the strange things he afterward testified to in 
court. 

Philip English's House was at the eastern corner of Essex and 
English streets, a house of many gables. It disappeared in May, 1833. 
It is said that the house contained a secret chamber, made at the time 
of the witchcraft delusion, where the inmates might hide from officers 
of the court. 

Edward Bishop and his wife, Bridget, lived in a house on the lot at 
the southern corner of Church and Washington streets, and extending 
to the present Lyceum Hall. It was here that the "puppets" were said 
to have been found. Here the Hon. C. W. Upham passed the years of 
his pastorate in Salem, and began the study of the witchcraft problem. 

Samuel Shattl'ck, the dyer, whose child was said to have been be- 
witched by Bridget, lived in the old house still in about its original 
condition, opposite the North Church on Essex street, number 315. 
Cook and Bly, who testified against her, lived in houses east of this, 
the last-named in a house facing on Summer street. 



POINTS OF HISTORIC FN TEREST. 



35 



William Stacev's horse and cart came to grief, it was said on 
account of Bridget's witchery, on Summer street, near the large ehii 
tree by the corner of Norman. 

Ann PuDEAiOR lived north of the Common, between Oliver and 
Winter streets, in a house on the site of the brick residence numbered 
2S Washington square. 

Sarah Ingersoll and others, who gave testimony against some of 
the victims, lived near Daniels street. 

Giles Corey was pressed to death, it is thought, in a field now the 
site of the Prescott school house on Howard street. His homestead 
in Salem, where he lived prior to his removal to the farm in the pres- 
ent section of West Peabody, was very near the building, number 46 
Boston street. 

Hon. C. W. Upham, the historian and author of "Salem Witch- 
craft" lived first on the site of the Bishop residence, on Washington 
street, and later at 313 Essex street, among the sites of the houses of 
Bridget Bishop's accusers. 



CHAPTER III. 

Public Biiildiugs. 

TO the visitor interested in educational matters, the schools of 
Salem will prove worthy of attention. The State Normal 
School for girls is at the corner of Summer and Broad streets, but a 
new building is in process of construction at the junction of Lafayette 
street and Loring avenue. The present building is of brick with free- 
stone trimmings. It was dedicated Sept. 14. 1854.. It is supplied with 
a fine set of scientific and chemicil apparatus, including a telescope 
of fair power. Its library contiins upwards of 9000 volumes Tuition 
is free to those who agree to become teachers in the public schools. 
For the assistance of those who find even the moderate expense bur- 
densome, the state makes an annual appropriation, one-half of which 
is distributed at the close of each term among the pupils from within 
the Commonwealth who merit and need aid. Permission to attend 
any of the exercises of the school can only ba obtained by applying to 
the principal. 

The new Normal School Building was began November 24, 1893. 
It covers aground area of eleven thousand square feet; one of the 
great buildings of the state. It stands high and is so large that it 
fairly dominates the southern section, which is the growing section, of 
Salem. J. Philip Rinn is the architect. Its materials are straw 
colored brick, Indiana limestone, terra cotta and granite. Its cost is 
$200,000. Some of its unique features are a gymnasium in the base- 
ment measuring 35 by 80 feet,— a ground floor devoted wholly to the 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 37 

"practice" or "model" schools, viz: Four kindergarten rooms, four 
primary rooms, a grammar school and six recitations rooms, with 
rooms for teachers, — providing in all for nearly rive hundred pupils. 

In the second story is a hall 60 by 80 feet, the principal's room, re- 
ception rooms, the teachers assembly room, and rooms for teaching 
everything that it is worth while to know, except science, viz : Gram- 
mar, language, elocution, English history, mathematics, classics, 
rhetoric. On the third floor science is taugh% in laboratories for 
physics, chemistry, botany, zoology, astronomy, geography, geometry, 
algebra, geology, mineralogy. If there are other 'ologies and 'osophies 
which one desires to know, they can doubtless be learned in other 
Salem institutions. The view from the roof is superb. It commands 
the harbor and also the outer bay far beyond the islands, and on 
either hand broad, noble avenues, leading, one to Marblehead, one to 
Lynn and Swampscott, and one to the heart of Salem. The scene 
wherever viewed is rural landscape, city boulevard, or the blue ex- 
panse of ocean. 

Connected with the parishes of the St. James, Immaculate Concep- 
tion and St. Joseph's are well equipped parochial schools, the new 
building on Harbor street for the St. Joseph's being one of the largest 
of the buildings in the city used for school purposes. The industrial 
school, lately established through the generosity of a prominent citi- 
zen, Mr. James B. Curvven, is located in a brick building in the rear 
of Kinsman block and the rudiments of mechanical draughting, car- 
pentering, etc., are taught there. At the Phillips school will be seen 
an attempt to introduce decoration of the wall space of the school 
rooms in a manner which shall be both artistic and educational. This 
effort was made by the well-known artist, Ross Turner, in 1891. There 
are in the city kindergarten and private schools of higher grade, prin- 
cipally for young children and girls, the location of which can be 
found in the Naumkeag directory. 



38 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Public School Houses:— 
State Normal, junction Lafayette street, and Loring avenue. 
State Normal— old building — Broad, corner of Summer. 
High, built 1856, Broad, opposite Cambridge. (Tablets inside). 
Oli^'er (primary), Broad, next High School. (Tablet inside). 
Bowditch, built 1S70 (grammar), Flint, near Essex. 
Lincoln (primary), Fowler street, 
Endicott (primary), Boston, above Great Tree. 

Phillips, built 1863 (boys' grammar), Washington sq. (Art decoration) 
Bentle,v, built 1861 (girls' grammar and primary), Essex, opp. Bentley. 
Lynde (primary), Herbert street. 
Prescott (primary), Howard street. 
Carlton (primary). Skerry street. 

Brown (primary, including Naumkeag), Ropes street. 
Bertram built, 1880 (primary). Willow avenue. 
Saltonstall, built 1874 (grammar), Holly street. 
Pickering, built 1862 (primar}-), School street. 
Pickering (new), built 1893 (grammar). North street. 
Uphnm (primary), North, above Mason. 
Pickmin (primary), Dunlap street. 
A. A. Low, built 1893 (primary), Nichols and Prospect streets. 

Churches. — (The numbers in the list before the names refer to the 
order of arrangement in the following account of the churches :) 

1. First (Unitarian), Essex, corner of Washington. 

2. East (Unitarian), Washington square. 
4. North (Unitarian), Essex, above North. 

6. liarton Square (Unitarian), Essex, corner of Barton Square. 

8. Friends, Pine, corner of Warren. 

9. St. Peter's (Episcopal), St. Peter, corner of Brown. 
10. Grace (Episcopal), Essex, below Flint. 

3. Tabernacle (Orthodox), Washington, corner of Federal. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 39 

5. South (Orthodox), Chestnut, corner of Cambridge. 

7. Crombie Street (Orthodox), Crombie street. 

1 1. First Baptist, Federal, below North. 

12. Central Baptist, St. Peter, opposite Federal. 

13. Calvary Baptist, Essex, corner of Herbert. 

14. Universalist, Rust, below Federal. 

15. Immaculate Conception (Roman Catholic), Walnut, opposite 

Charter. 

16. St. James (Roman Catholic), Federal, above Flint. 

17. St. Joseph's (Roman Catholic, French), Lafayette, above Harbor. 
iS. Lafayette Street (Methodist Episcopal), Lafayette street, cor- 
ner of Harbor. 

19. Wesley (Methodist Episcopal), North, near Essex. 

20. New Jerusalem (Swedenborgian), Essex, above Cambridge. 
2[. Advent, 127 North street. 

22. Marine Society Bethel, foot of Turner. 

I. The First Church (Unitarian) was organized in 1629. The 
present structure at the corner of Essex and Washington streets, the 
fourth church edifice of the society, was built in 1826 and remodelled 
in 1875, (The original frame of the first Puritan meeting-house is pre- 
served at the Essex Institute, which see.) This society has occupied 
the present site since the erection of the first house of worship in 1634 
and the memory of many historical events clusters about the spot. 
Two inscribed marble slabs at the head of the stairway leading to the 
second flioor, where religious services are held, give the history of the 
church, the names of its pastors and their terms of service. 

A bronze tablet has been placed on the wall at the northeast corner 
of the church which is inscribed as follows : 

Here stood from 1G34 until 1673 

THE FIRST MEETING HOUSE 

ERECTED IN SaLEM. 



40 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM- 

No STRUCTUKE WAS BUILT EAKLIER 

FOR CONGREGATIONAL WORSHIP 
BY A CHURCH FORMED IN AMERICA. 

It was OCCUPIED 

for secular as well as religious uses. 

In it preached, in succession, 

I— ROGER WILLIAMS: II— HUGH PETERS: 

III— EDWARD NORRIS : IV— JOHN HIGGIXSON. 

It was enlarged in 1639, and 

WAS last used for worship in 1(370. 

The First Church in Salem, 
gathered, july and a u gust, 1629, 

has had no place of WORSHIP BUT THIS SPOT. 

Less than thirty years ago this society used an organ inscribed in 
large letters on two plates upon its from, "John Avery, London, 
Fecit, 1800." This, in old times, was considered a very fine organ. 
The one now in use was built by Hutchings, Plaisted & Co. in 1875, 
and, although not large, is a well voiced instrument. The society 
possesses many interesting relics of the past, including the original 
early records and several pieces of old silver used in the communion 
service, but unfortunately, several of the oldest and most interesting 
were melted down in 1815 and made into a basin. Among those now 
preserved are five cups, the gift of William Browne, a cup from Sarah 
Higginson in 1720, one from Mary Walcott in 1729 and a flagon from 
Samuel Browne in 1731. 

2. The East Chirrch (Unitarian), or Second Church as it was former- 
ly called, was organized in 1 718 by a separation from the First Church, 




South Church. 
Wesley Church. 



Si- rater's Church. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



4t 



the present edifice of freestone being built in 1846. Richard Upjohn, 
its architect, was born in England in 1802 and came to America in 
1829. He built a cathedral at Bangor, Maine, and Trinity, St. Thomas 
and Grace churches in New York City where he died in 1878. The old 
wooden meeting house previously occupied by the society on Essex 
at the corner of Hardy street was made famous by Dr. William Bent- 
\ey, the historian and scholar, who preached there from 1783 until 1819 
and who lived in the house still standing, number 106 Essex street. 
The bell formerly on the old house rings daily from the tower of the 
Bentley school house on Essex street, and the rooster which lifts his 
head and officiates over the winds above it was from the same church 
and, if tradition may be relied upon, still contains, sealed up in his 
capacious crop, old hymn books and some of Dr. Bentley's sermons. 
The bell as the inscription upon it states, was cast by "Revere and 
Sons, Boston, 1801." It is a very interesting relic, for one of Paul 
Revere's bells is a prize for any city to own. The society possesses 
many interesting communion cups and other gifts of its early mem- 
bers. The present attractive edifice has recently been placed in 
thorough repair, its gothic decorations making it one of the finest 
church interiors in the city. Doctor Bentley was short of stature, and 
the well worn plank, placed in the pulpit to raise him to a better ele- 
vation, with the impression of his two feet sunk into it by long usage 
may be seen at the Essex Institute. 

3. T/ie Tabernacle Church (Orthodox Congregational) separated 
from the First Church in 1735 and, in fact, was by warm adherents 
claimed for many years to be the First Church itself. The society oc- 
cupied buildings first on Essex street, opposite Barton square, and 
then on the present site, and built the structure it now occupies in 
1854. Its large organ, built by Woodberry and Harris, is one of the 
finest in the city. The spire of this church, which is 180 feet high, 
was, until the erection of the new St. James church on Federal street, 
considered to be the loftiest in Salem. Salem was the first port from 



42 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

which missionaries sailed for Calcutta. This was in .1812. Some of 
the early meetings in the mission cause were held in a room of the 
the house now numbered 16 Lynde street, which was then the resi- 
dence of Walter Price Bartlett. On February 6, 1812, five persons 
were consecrated to the mission work at the Tabernacle church, not 
the present building, but one on the same spot, on the corner of 
Washington and Federal streets. In the vestry of the present church 
there is preserved, besides the study chair of the Rev. Dr. Worcester, 
an old pastor of the church, a settee, with an inscribed plate on it tell- 
ing us: "Upon this seat Rev. Messrs. Newell, Judson, Nott, Hall and 
Rice sat in the Tabernacle church, Salem, Feb. 6, 1812, when ordained 
to the work of the Gospel Ministry as missionaries to the Heathen in 
Asia." The church also owns some old and interesting pieces of 
plate. 

4. 77/6' iVorth Church (Unitarian) was formed by a separation from 
the iMrst Church in 1770, thefirst meeting house being built in 1772 on 
North, at the corner of Lynde street, the present site of the residence 
oE Dr. C A. Carlton. Here Dr. Thomas Barnard preached on the 
eventful Sunday the British troops under Col. Leslie passed the door 
on their way to the North Bridge, when that worthy peacemaker left 
his pulpit and hastened to the scene of the disturbance to urge, suc- 
cessfully, the avoidance of bloodshed. The present beautiful edifice 
on Fssex street just above North, vine-clad in summer and retired be- 
hind lofty elms, was built in 1835, C. J. F. Bryant being the architect, 
and some interior ornamentation added in 1848. It is after the style 
of an old English parish church and the excellent gothic interior 
finish and high-backed pews correspond well with this idea. In the 
church are tablets to the memory of Revs. Thomas Barnard, John 
Emery Abbot and John l)razer, ministers of the church and, in the 
minister's room, a memorial gift of a member of the church, is another 
tablet inscribed to the memory of the donor's wife. The church was 
built largely under the supervision of the late Francis Peabody whose 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS, 43 

love of the beautiful in architecture has left a good influence in Salem 
in many ways. The organ, built by Hook and Hastings, is an exceed- 
ingly fine instrument and the society has many interesting cups and 
vessels used in the communion service which date from the organiza- 
tion of the church. An elegant stained glass window, by Mr. John 
La Farge of New York city, was placed in the church in 1S92. It is 
inscribed "In memory of Francis and Martha Peabody : l>y Their 
Children." The principal features are the full length figures of Faith 
and Charity. Another was added in 1894, the work of the Tiffanys of 
New York, consecrated to the memory of Martha Ruttrick Willson, the 
lamented wife of the senior pastor. On week days, entrance may be 
obtained to the church at precisely one o'clock during the time of 
ringing the "one o'clock bell." 

5. The South Church (Orthodox Congregational) separated from the 
Third or Tabernacle Church in 1774, and occupied an Assembly hall on 
Cambridge street, the site of the present vestry of the society, until 
the large wooden church edifice was built in 1.S04. The spire of this 
church was blown down while building by the great September gale 
of the same year and the present beautiful spire replaced it. It was 
designed by Samuel Macintire and is considered one of the best works 
of that noted home architect, who lived in an old house under its 
shadow. This is, therefore, the oldest church edifice in the city and, 
except for interior alterations, remains unchanged since built. It was 
entirely renovated and tastefully decorated in 1888 and a new organ 
built by Hutchings placed in it in 1891. From the centre of the church 
hangs a beautiful crystal chandelier for candles which was imported 
in 1807 by Mr. John Jenks and given to the church by subscriptions 
from liberal members of the society. It is stated to have cost one 
thousand dollars and it has arms for thirty candles. About 1840 this 
chandelier was taken down and lay hidden in the cellar of the church 
until, with the revival of good taste and the appreciation of the good 
work of old times, it was hung in its former place in 1888. This is one 



44 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

of the largest churches in the city; the spire is i66 feet high and, for 
the interest of the curious, who may desire to guess at the size of ob- 
jects at a great height, they may be told that the vane which sur- 
mounts this spire is just six feet and one inch long from the tip of the 
arrow to the extreme point of the blazing sun at the other end. The 
bell which weighs rather more than 1,300 pounds is inscribed 
"Thomas Mears and Son, London, Fecit, 1807.'' The clock, which 
has no face and is provided only with works for striking the hour, was 
on the old First Church, corner of Essex and Washington streets, 
probably more than one hundred and twenty years ago. It was re- 
moved to the old North Church on North street in 1826, and to the 
South Church in 1836. It has a curious old iron frame, a pendulum 
ten feet long and, for weights, wooden boxes filled with stones. It is 
said to have been made by a Beverly blacksmith; possibly Samuel 
Luscomb, who made the old clock for the East Church, made this one 
also. It is an interesting old piece of home workmanship. From the 
bell deck of this steeple Captain Oliver Thayer saw the naval battle 
between the Chesapeake and the Shannon in June, 1813. He also re- 
membered at the close of his life the dilapidated structure which stood 
on land at the rear of the South Meeting House until 1805 and had 
been, from 1766 to 1774, the first Assembly House in Salem. In it 
were held the annual assemblies of the day and large social gather- 
ings before the revolution, — the famous ball given by Gov. Bernard's 
son in 1768, and otficial receptions tendered to Gov. Hutchinson on 
his last military review in Massachusetts, and to Gov. Gage on the 
last King's birthday celebrated in Massachusetts. 

6. The Independent Chnreh (Unitarian), or Barton Square Church 
as it is commonly called, was the last direct outgrowth of the First 
Church. The separation occurred in 1824 and the present edifice was 
built in that year, Thomas W. Sumner of Brookline being the architect. 

7. The Cronibie Street Chiuxh (Orthodox Congregational) was an 
offshoot from the then flourishing Howard street or Branch Church, 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 4^ 

itself an outgrowth of the Tabernacle and thus indirectly of the First 
Church. Rufus Choate was of the first board of trustees. 'I'he How- 
ard Street Church went out of existence and the church edifice was 
in 1867, removed to Railroad avenue, Beverly, where it is used by the 
Methodists. In this Howard Street or Branch Church, Judge Story, 
in August, 1813, pronounced his brilliant eulogy on Lawrence and 
Ludlow who fell in the ill-starred action betw^een the Chesapeake and 
the Shannon. Two other churches in Salem had refused the use of 
their houses, — so high ran party feeling. Here too preached George 
B. Cheever, afterw^ards of New York, and Charles T. Torrey, who 
died from brutal treatment in a Baltimore jail, where he was confined 
for aiding the escape of slaves. Four hundred negroes owed their 
freedom to his efforts, and Reverdy Johnson of Maryland and John G. 
Whittier of Massachusetts united in tributes to his memory. The 
communion plate of the church was sold and the proceeds divided 
among the remaining members and the bell removed to the tower of 
the Central Baptist church where it is now in use. The Crombie 
street society now^ occupies the plain brick building which was erected 
on the street of that name in 1828 for a theatre, but which as such did 
not flourish, and the building was dedicated to church purposes, Nov. 
22, 1832. Extensive repairs and alterations were made by the church 
in 1892 and several memorial windows added. 

8. The Friends Society, or Quaker church as it is too often improp- 
erly called, occupies a simple brick building among the tall horse- 
chestnuts, on the corner of Pine and Warren streets. The Friends 
held services in Salem as early as 1657, but the first meeting-house 
was not erected until 1688. It was built on land given by the cele- 
brated old quaker Thomas Maule who lived in a house on the site of 
the residence of the late Mr. James B. Curwen, 331 Essex street. 
The meeting house occupied the site of the new^ residence of Mr. 
Gifford, 377 Essex street. There was another meeting-house of wood, 
at the corner of Pine and Essex streets, where the Friends burying 



^6 visijor's r.u I dk to salem. 

ground may now be seen, but it was given up some years ago. The 
present meeting-house of the society was built in 1832. 

9. S/. /Wcr's Church (l^^iscopnl). The present English gothic 
church of stone occui)'ied by this society, at the corner of Brown and 
St. Peter streets, was built in 1S33 on the original land given by Philip 
Knglish, a famous merchant of his day who was accused of witchcraft, 
for the first church edifice erected by the society in 1733. During the 
war of the Revolution, public feeling against everything English ran 
so high that a law was enacted by the State Legislature forbidding 
the reading of the Episcopal service under penalty of Zioo and one. 
year imprisonment, and religious services were consequently suspend- 
ed, while the property of the society suffered from lawless violence. 
But calmer times came and this society nQw enjoys its share of pros- 
perity. The old bell, familiar to the ears of Salemites for a century 
and a- half still hangs in the St. Peter's tower. It was cast by Abel 
Rudhall, at Gloucester, England. It was first rung in 1740 and is, 
therefore, the oldest church bell in the city. The initials of the 
maker, " A. R.," surmounted by a crown upon the bell, have been 
supposed by many persons to mean "Anna Regina" and hence the 
story that Queen Anne gave this bell to the society. From this foun- 
dr}^ about the same time, came the chime of bells now in the tower of 
Christ's church in Boston, generally acknowledged to be the best in 
this region. In 1885 a chime of ten bells was placed in the St. Peter's 
tower and these are rung every Sunday and on days of service during 
the week. In the old edifice was the first organ ever placed in a 
Salem church and which was imported from England by John Clark 
in 1743. A second organ followed in 1770 which was exchanged in 
1819 for one imported from England by Dr. B. L. Oliver who had it in 
his private residence and who even neglected his profession so fond 
was he of playing on this instrument. The tablets containing the 
Apostles Creed, Lord's Prayer and Ten Commandments, which were 
painted by^John Gibbs of Boston in 1738 for the old church, are still 



puntjc r.uiLDiNds. 47 

preserved, as well as the lari^e folio volume of Common Prayer given 
the church in 1744 by the Rt. Hon. Sir Arthur Onslow, then speaker 
of the House of Commons of Great Britain. There are still several 
memorial plates and cups used by the church dated 1757, 1771 and 
17.S5, but as was the case at the First Church, the iconoclast, not very 
long ago, seized upon many of these interesting relics of the past and 
sent them to the melting pot to be made into something of modern 
style, to the sincere regret of the present officers of the society. In 
the church and chapel are tablets to the memory of early members of 
the Episcopal church in Salem, including John and Samuel Brown, 
members of the Massachusetts Bay Company in 1628, -and of the first 
council, Philip English, John Touzel and John and Mary Bertram, the 
parents of Capt. John Bertram, a name associated with nearly every 
charitable institution in the city. Among the tablets to the memory 
of deceased rectors of the church, that to Rev, James Oliver Scripture 
has an excellent medallion likeness of Mr. Scripture moulded by Mi^s 
Louisa Lander, the well-known artist, and a member of the parish. In 
the church yard, near the street, is the head-stone inscribed : " Here 
lyes buried ye body of Jonathan Pue, Esq., Late surveyor and 
searcher of his majesties' customs in Salem, New England,'' who died 
in 1760, at the age of 66 years. This is the same whom Hawthorne 
has made famous by using his name in the "Introduction to the 
Scarlet Letter.'' 

10. Graa' Chunk (Episcopal) was organized in 1858 by members 
who separated from St. Peter's augmented by many from other 
societies in Salem. The present modest church edifice was built in 
1S58 and enlarged in 1889. It contains a very beautiful pulpit of 
carved oak, a memorial gift of a member of the society and a very fine 
stained glass window was placed over the altar in 1892, through con- 
tributions of members of the society, to the memory of Mrs. James P. 
Franks, the wife of the rector of the church. The window was 
designed by Henry Holiday, R. A., of London, and is made addition- 



48 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

ally interesting from the fact that it was chosen by the late Bishop 
Brooks while visiting England in 1891. 

11. The Fi?'st Bapfist Society, organized 1804, worship in the 
pleasantly situated church building on Federal street below North 
which was erected in 1806, entirely remodelled in 1868, injured by fire 
in 1877 and again repaired in 1878. The tower contains one of the 
largest bells in the city, cast by H. N. Hoopar of Boston, in 1865, and 
now has an illuminated clock. 

12. The Cent7-al Bap'ist Churrh, also known as the Second Baptist, 
having separated from the First Baptist Society in 1825, built the 
present edifice on St. Peter street, facing Federal, in 1826. This was 
raised and entirely remodelled in 1877. In the tower is the bell 
formerly on the Howard street church. 

13. The Calvary Baptist Church was formed in 1870 and the present 
edifice erected by the society at the corner of Essex and Herbert 
streets, in 1873. 

14. The Universalist Church was organized in 1810, services having 
been held in various places in town as early as 1804. The edifice on 
Rust street, facing Federal, was built in 1808 and has several times 
been remodelled, the last time in 1878 when a tower was added and 
the interior decorated in the oriental style. A large and convenient 
vestry and hall connected with the church, and fronting on Ash 
street, was built in 1889. A new Hutchings organ was added in Octo- 
ber, 1888. 

15. Church of the IminacuJate Coficcption (Roman Catholic). The 
large brick edifice on Walnut street, facing Charter, was built in 1857 
and remodelled and a tower added in 1880. The church was conse- 
crated in 1890. The bell is the largest in the city weighing 3250 
pounds, the tone B. It was cast by the Blake Bell Foundry of Boston 
and was blessed on July 9, 1S91. The inscription on it reads ; "Immac- 
ulate Conception Parish to the Sacred Heart." Name, "St. Mary's." 
The organ in this church was built by.^W. H. Ryder of Boston. 



PUBLIC i!unj)[N(;.s. 49 

Roman Catholic services were held in Salem as early as 1790 and a 
church was organized in 181 1. The first edifice, St. Mary's, was built 
at the corner of Mall and Bridge streets, in 1 821, on land given by 
Simon Forrester. This edifice was occupied until 1857 and in 1877 it 
was torn down, being considered unsafe. 

16. St. James Church (Roman Catholic). 'I'he wooden structure on 
Federal street, above Flint, was built in 1849 to accommodate the in- 
creasing congregations which overcrowded St. Mary's Church. It has 
remained with but little change to the present time and now gives 
place to the conspicuous gothic edifice just completed with a tower 
and spire two hundred feet high and a height in the interior from 
pavement to ridge-pole of 87 feet. 

17. St. Joseph's Church (Roman Catholic; French), on Lafayette 
street above Harbor, was organized in 1873. The present edifice of 
wood was erected in 1883. It contains the large organ, built by J. H. 
Wilcox and Co., in 1870, originally placed in Mechanic Hall through 
the efforts of a committee of citizens interested in the Salem Oratorio 
Society, and which was sold to the church by the Hall corporation. 

18. The Lajayetfe Sf. Methodist Episcopal Church (Lafayette street 
corner of Harbor). The first Methodist meeting-house in Salem was 
built on Sewall street in 1823 and was occupied by a society formed in 
1821. Methodist services were held regularly in 1815 in a dwelling- 
house on the opposite side of the same street. Occasional services 
had been conducted, however, in private houses and in halls in various 
parts of this ci^y, as far back as 1790, when Jesse Lee, by invitation, 
preached in the meeting-house of the Tabernacle society (Orthodox 
Congregational) on the corner of Federal and Washington streets, on 
July 1 2th of that year. He afterwards preached in the pulpit of the 
South Church several times. In 1841 a second Methodist meeting- 
house was built on Union street not far from the birthplace of Nathan- 
iel Hawthorne. The Lafayette street edifice was built in 1852, but was 
thoroughly remodelled in 1893, and in 1872 a branch society, 



50 VIMIOKS (ilMDE lO SAI.KM. 

later organized as the Wesley Church, occupied for several years the 
old Sewall street meeting-house, until the building of their present 
tine structure on North street in 1888. 'i'he old Sewall street meeting- 
house is still standing, it now being used for storage purposes. 

19. The Wesley Church: A large brick and stone church edifice on 
North street a few doors from Essex. In construction this is quite 
different from any other cfturch building in the city. By means of 
sliding doors, the seating capacity can be much increased by connect- 
ing the Sunday-school rooms which are on the street end of the build- 
ing, with the large audience room. The windows of the church being 
of stained glass present a most attractive appearance in the evening 
when services are being held, the brightly lighted interior reflecting 
through the large gothic window on North street. The church has 
been the recipient of a fine organ, a memorial gift from a member of 
the society, the builders being Woodberry and Harris. 

20. The N^eiv Jerusalem Church (Swedenborgian), on Essex street 
near Cambridge, was built in 1871, meetings of this sect having been 
held in halls and private houses in Salem since 1840. 

21. The Advent Christian Churchy 127 North street, was built in 
1S90, the society having been organized in 1875. 

22. The Marine Society Bet he/ at the foot of Turner street was built 
m 1890 with funds received by bequest from Capt. Henry Barr. It is 
conducted as a non-sectarian protestant chapel, the ministers of the 
proteslant denominations of the neighborhood officiating, 

A Seaman's Bethel Society holds meetings in the rooms at the cor- 
ner of Turner and Derby streets, and religious services are also held 
by the Deaf Mutes and other organizations which do not own or oc- 
cupy church edifices. 

'J'here are Parish or Guild houses connected with the St. Peter's, 
East, and the Central Baptist Societies. 

The Custom House.- The Salem Custom House is chiefly inter- 
esting from its association with Nathaniel Hawthorne, and with Gen. 




Custom House. :,^ ^^i 



Post Office. 



PUBLIC BUII.niNClS. 



51 



James Miller, of Chippewa and Lundy's Lane. It is not exactly a 
monument to the commercial grandeur of the old port, for it was only 
built in 1818-19, a period a little beyond the romantic epoch in the 
history of Salem, and it goes without saying that it has no antiquarian 
interest about it, though visitors often expect to find it a picturesque 
and time-worn structure. In point of fact it is as substantial, dignified 
and well kept a building as the city contains, with a little history of 
its own perhaps worth recounting, beside having been graced with the 
occupancy of several persons of the highest distinction. In the old 
days when the word Salem was the synonym for everything brilliant 
and heroic in a commercial way, the Custom House, strangely enough, 
was a movable establishment ; the office followed the collector from 
house to house wherever he might happen to reside, and if he chanced 
to be a bachelor and a victim of the boarding-house habit, it might be 
impossible for a shipmaster setting out on a voyage to conjecture 
where it would be found upon his return, or even find it when he 
wished to enter his homeward cargo. Sometimes it was in a hired 
room as the post office is to-day, the migratory collector's office being 
moved about like a nomad from Creek street, North street corner to 
Neck Gate, to Gedney court, to Central street, to Newbury street cor- 
ner, and to one or more buildings on Essex street, until the custom 
house was finally provided in 18 19. The office was once on the west 
side of Central street, where a carved and painted eagle still marks its 
entrance. During all these years names now famous were added to 
the roll of collectors and surveyors. William Fairfax was collector 
when he left Salem for Virginia to found a family. Surveyor Pue 
owes his immortality to his successor Hawthorne. William Hathorne, 
the romancer's ancestor, was collecting a tonnage tax in gun-powder, 
at a half a pound per ton in 1667. The names of Browne, Lynde, 
Bowditch, Veren, Palfray, Hiller and Lee grace the list, and James 
Cockle, upon whose petition for a writ to search for smuggled molas- 
ses, James Otis made his memorable plea against writs of assistance, 



52 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

^vas at the time collector of Salem. The site upon which the Custom 
House stands was the homestead of George Crowninshield, the pro- 
genitor of a numerous race, of whom his sons, Hon, Benjamin, was a 
member of congress and secretary of the navy under Madison, and 
Hon. Richard was a member of congress who declined the offer of a 
like distinction. The land had been a portion of the Derby estate, 
and came to Mr. Crowninshield through a marriage with Elias Has- 
kett Derby's sister. It was a fine old house with pilasters in front like 
the PickmanT)erby-]]rookhouse mansion on Washington street, and 
like that was crowned with a cupola, but on its top in the place of the 
eagle of the latter, it had, for a vane, a merchant holding at arm's 
length a spy-glass. It had a famous fruit and flower garden and 
stables in the rear, and compared well in every way with the best of 
our pre-revolutionary architecture. A committee of such merchants 
as John Derby, Nathaniel Silsbee, Robert Stone, Stephen White and 
Joseph Peabody selected the spot in behalf of the government, and 
John Derby removed a warehouse of his which stood in front that the 
harbor view might be unobstructed. Perley Putnam, the nestor of 
our city government, and John Saunders, the cadetman and first 
captain of the light infantry, took the contract to build it, and Judge 
Story, Secretary C'rowninshield, Senator Silsbee, Willard Peele and 
Joseph Peabody commended the work in a report to the government. 
There are pine boards in the dado, twenty-six inches wide in the clear ; 
slates of rare quality and dimensions were imported from Wales, and 
flagstones for the sidewalks from Potsdam, N. Y., by way of the St. 
Lawrence. The cost was $36,000. From a cupola on top, customs 
officers keep watch for infractions of the revenue laws. The building 
contains a portrait of Joseph Hiller, the first collector under the con- 
stitution, given by the family, and a bust of Lincoln, a copy in plaster 
of the famous Volk bust, made on Lincoln's first leaving his home in 
Springfield, 111., to occupy the White House. This particular plaster 
cast was procured from the sculptor and used by the late Joseph Ames 



t'UBLtC BUILDINGS. 53 

in painting the portrait of Lincoln placed by the merchants of ]>oston 
in Faneuil Hall. He then presented it to Robert S. Rantoul, at that 
time collector of the port, who placed it on perpetual deposit at the 
custom house. But the interest manifested in the Salem Custom 
House centres mainly in the fact that some years of Mr. Hawthorne's 
service in the customs department were spent here as surveyor of 
customs, in the southwesterly office on the first floor of the building. 
His desk, upon the lid of which he scratched his autograph with his 
thumb-nail, is still to be seen at the Essex Institute, and it is not un- 
likely that some of his compositions may have been written on it. 'Jhe 
room in which tradition says " '^i'he Scarlet Letter" was discovered is 
that in the rear of the collector's private office on the second floor of 
the easterly side of the building, and was in Hawthorne's day and for 
some years after an unfurnished chamber, filled with old papers in 
boxes and barrels and with waste and confusion generally. The 
papers were afterwards filed as well as they could be and placed in 
the attic, but no sufficient restrictions being enforced they were raided 
by autograph hunters and claim agents in search of evidence of de- 
mands for pensions and shares in prizes captured in the wars with 
England, and suffered great depletion. The old records before the 
Revolution are all missing. The story is that they were taken to 
Halifax on the outbreak of the war of Independence by the last royal 
collector. Another account is that they perished in the great fire of 
Oct., 1774, which consumed the custom house and attacked the town 
house. 

Posr Office. — The United States Post Office occupies the lower 
Hoor of the building at 118 and 120 Washington street, having quarters 
specially arranged for the business of this department of the public 
service The attention of the stranger will at once be attracted to 
this building, which was erected in 1883, by the colonial character of 
its architecture, which is also well carried out in its next-door neighbor, 
the Peabody building. Over the main entrance to the Post Office is a 



r^ visitor's guide to SALEM. 

nne reproduction of the United States coat of arms, and over the south- 
ern door on Washington street, one of the city seal. The Post Office 
is open on week days from 7 a. m. till 8 p. m., and a half hour later 
on Saturdays. On Sunday the office is open from 11.30 a. m. to 12.30 
p. M. Free collections and deliveries are made daily in all parts of the 
city except on Sundays, when one collection is made but no delivery, 
and hourly collections are made from the "scarlet letter boxes" in the 
central portion of the city on week days. Salem Post Office is a 
money-order office for domestic points, and for all foreign points. 
There are eight mails on week days for Boston, four for New York 
City, and the same number for Philadelphia, Washington, the South 
and West. One general mail is made up on Sunday. 

Court Houses.— Tradition tells us that the first Court House in 
Salem was situated on the west side of Washington street about 
where the present post-office building is located. This building was 
moved in 1677 by Joshua Buffum and set in the middle of Washington 
street about opposite Church street then known as Eppes lane and 
facing Essex street. Its upper part was fitted up in 1679 for the 
accommodation of the courts. In this court house the witchcraft trials 
were held and a bronze tablet on the recently remodelled Brookhouse 
estate gives the story in brief and marks the spot. In 1718 the Court 
of General Sessions, finding this court house too small, ordered the 
erection of a new building twenty feet stud, thirty bro^d and forty 
long, the upper story for the court and the lower for town business. 
This town and court house erected on Washington street opposite the 
First Church and thirty-two feet distant therefrom and facing Essex 
street was 'destined to be the theatre of some of the most important 
events in the history, not only of Salem, but of the country. These 
events are referred to elsewhere and are recorded on a tablet placed 
on the First Church. The square here has been named Town House 
Square. 

In 1785 another town and court house was built and it was again lo- 




Court House* 



J^an- Liibrary. 



PUBLIC BUII.DIXflS. re 

cited in the middle of Washington street but farther north than the 
witchcraft court house. Its west side faced the Tabernacle church and 
its front was towards Essex street. From the balcony of this court 
house General Washington was presented to the assembled crowd 
when he was received in Salem in 1789. 

The building of the tunnel under Washington street necessitated 
the building of a new court house and the present granite building was 
erected on the corner of Federal and Washington streets. The City of 
Salem provided the lot on which it is built. Ground w^as broken 
Julys, 1839, and the building was completed in 1841. It is 55 feet 
broad and 105 long and two stories high. Its four columns, two at 
each end are of the Corinthian order. They are monoliths and their 
flutes and capitals are said to be copied from those in the Tower of 
Winds at Athens. Each column is three feet, ten inches in diameter 
and thirty-two feet high including the base and capital. The walls 
are of solid granite and all the floors are supported by brick arches. 
The cost of the building was about $80,000. The architect was 
Richard Bond of Boston. The principal contractors were Samuel S. 
Standley and Henry Russell, jr., masons of Salem. The building was 
first opened for public use March 2[, 1842, with a session of the Court 
of Common Pleas, Judge Warren presiding. From the time of the 
opening up to Oct. 3, 1862, this building was the only court house in 
Salem. The courts were held in the upper story while the lower was 
devoted to county offices. I'his court house was remodelled in 18S9 
and the whole lower floor devoted to the registry of deeds and the sec- 
ond story to the probate and insolvency office and probate court 
room. There is not much to interest the general visitor in this build- 
ing but the antiquary and genealogist delight to pore over the old 
records of wills and deeds running back as they do to 1640 and dis- 
closing many a clew to old family relationships. The land adjoining 
this building was purchased in 1857 and a brick court house built 
thereon in 1861. The building was formally dedicated to the use of 



56 visitor's guide to salem. 

the courts Friday, Oct. 3, 1S62. Enoch Fuller was the architect and 
Simeon Flint and Abraham Towle the contractors. Authority was 
obtained from the legislature to expend $25,000 in its erection. The 
expenditure was within the appropriation, as noteworthy a fact as any- 
thing connected with its history. The outside of this building when 
built was covered with mastic but it proved most unsatisfactory and in 
the fall of 1891, after the building of the extension in the rear, the 
coat of mastic was removed and a new covering of brick was laid and 
a tower added in front, thus bringing the outside into harmony with 
the new annex. 

In 1887, the construction of an additional fireproof building was 
commenced to connect with the brick court house. It was finished in 
1889 at an expense of 5^147,115.31. The architects were Wheelwright 
iS: Northend, and the contractors, Parsons & Peterson. The new 
building while annexed to the court house of 1861 overshadows it 
both in size and in architectural pretensions. It was dedicated Feb. 2, 
1889. Hon. William D. Northend, chairman of the bar committee, 
presented a report and Hon. Eben F. Stone delivered an address to 
the bar of Essex county. The building, thus dedicated, contains on 
the lower floor, large and commodious rooms occupied by the clerk of 
courts, county treasurer and county commissioners, ,and in the second 
story a small court room; but the feature of this court house is the 
grand and spacious room provided for the law library. On entering 
it you are confronted with a fireplace so magnificent in size that it 
seems to dominate the whole room. The oak finish is appropriate and 
elegant and the massive ftrniture accords in beauty with its surround- 
ings. Portraits of distinguished members of the bar are hung around 
the room, among them being portraits of Judge Otis P. Lord and 
Judge George F. Choate, both by F. P. Vinton of Boston, and one of 
Rufus Choate by the late Joseph Ames, presented by Gen. Benj. F. 
Butler. A fine full-length portrait of Chief Justice Shaw, by the late 
William M. Hunt, hangs over the Judge's bench in the front court 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. ^j 

room and is considered a masterpiece of that distinguished artist. 
But the attraction in this court house, which brings to it annually 
thousands of visitors from all parts of this country, as well as many 
from foreign lands, is to be found in the office of the clerk of the 
courts. Here the curious may find, in manuscript, all the testimony 
preserved in the famous witchcraft trials and the original death warrant 
of Bridget Bishop with the return of the sheriff thereon, which return, 
serious and solemn as was the business, provokes a smile when we 
read that he " caused her to be hanged by the neck till she was dead 
and bu7^ied\^' and find that, as if realizing that he was getting a little 
ultra vires ^ he has drawn his pen through the words "and buried." 
Here also may be seen the "witch pins" so called from having been 
produced in court at the trials as among the instruments of torture 
used by the accused. They were at first pinned into the original 
papers containing the written testimony but as their number seemed 
to be diminishing with the increasing number of visitors, what are 
left have been put in a small vial and securely sealed. 

The clerk's office is open from 9 a. m. to 5 p. ai. except on Saturday 
when it is closed at i o'clock p. m. 

The Supreme Court sits in Salem on the third Tuesday of April, and 
on the first Tuesday of November. The Supreme Court holds sessions 
for civil business in Salem on the first Mondays of June and Decem- 
ber; for criminal business on the fourth Monday of January. The 
Probate Court sits in Salem on the first and third Mondays in each 
month, except in August, when a session is held on the first Monday 
only. 

District Court. — The First District Court of Essex occupies the 
second story of a building of brick, with granite trimmings, on Wash- 
ington street, opposite the B. & M. railroad station. The site occupied 
was filled in a few years since, when Washington street was extended 
across the Soulh river. Until within twenty years, schooners came 
up to the old " City Mills," where the^R. R. engine house now stands. 



58 visitor's guide to salem- 

Sessions of the District Court are held at 9 a. m. daily for criminal 
business, and on Wednesdays at 10 a. m. for civil business. 

The County Jail is on St. Peter street, the grounds extending to the 
corner of Bridge street. It is a solid structure of granite. The origi- 
nal building was erected in 1813 and the present building in 1884-5. 
It is one of the most substantial jails in the state. Visitors are 
admitted from 9 to 11 a. m. and from 2 to 5 p. m., except on Saturdays, 
Sundays and holidays. 

The pillory and stocks were among the older instruments of punish- 
ment and the whijDping post remained in more or less active use until 
1805. A picture painted in 1765 showing the whipping post in front 
of the old brick school-house in the centre of Washington street may 
be seen at the Essex Institute. 

Public Halls. — Mechanic Hall, on Essex street nearly opposite 
Sewell street, is the principal hall for theatrical entertainments in the 
city. It has a seating capacity of about iioo. It is owned by the 
Mechanic Hall Corporation. It was built in 1839, and remodelled in 
1870. In it, July 5, 1852, Robert Rantoul made his last public appear- 
ance in Massachusetts. On this spot stood an ancient dwelling in 
which, Dec 16, 1751, was born George Cabot the distinguished 
Federalist and President of the Hartford Convention. This house 
was moved to Tapleyville when the hall was built. 

Lyceum Hall, on Church street, seats about 600. It was built in 
1 83 1, and is owned by the Salem Lyceum, an organization which 
inaugurated a course of lectures the 3'ear previous, and has continued 
them every season since, at the uniform rate of one dollar for each 
course. The list of those who have lectured before the " Lyceum " 
includes the names of the most famous lecturers of America. This is 
the one institution of the kind which had a building of its own and, 
with one or two exceptions, the oldest in the country. 

Academy Hall, number 157 Essex street, has a seating capacity of 
350. It IS one of the finest lecture and concert halls of its size in the 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



59 



state, its acoustic properties and ventilation being of the best. It is 
lighted with incandescent electric lights and is handsomely decorated 
and furnished. It is the properly of the Peabody Academy of 
Science. 

Washington Ha/I'is in the upper story of the Stearns Building on 
the northeast corner of Essex and Washington streets, which was 
erected in 1792. This quaint hall was for a number of years after it 
was opened a popular place for parties and other gatherings, and 
later became a theatre. It was opened, February 22, 1793, the birth- 
day of Washington which marked his second assumption of the presi- 
dency, with an elegant dinner, an oration by Bentley, and great 
rejoicings at the French revolution then just announced. It is a 
curious survival of an antique hall, with fire places, wooden wainscoat- 
ing and music gallery. 

Hamilton Hall, corner of Chestnut and Cambridge streets is owned 
by the South Building Corporation, built in 1805 and named in honor 
of Alexander Hamilton who had visited Salem and who had here 
many of his warmest admirers. This hall has ever been the centre of 
Salem's social activity and in it have been held the "Assemblies'' and 
many noticeable anniversary dinners and celebrations. Pickering was 
entertained at an elegant dinner in this hall in 1808, Bainbridge in 
1813 and Lafayette in 1824. The Essex Institute celebrated the 250th 
anniversary of the landing of Endicott in this hall Sept. 18, 1878 at 
which, among other distinguished guests. Dean Stanley of England 
was present and addressed the banqueters. 

There are a number of other halls well suited for dancing parties 
and social meetings. Post 34 Grand Army occupies a hall at 17 St. 
Peter street. 

Boston and Maine Railroad Station.— One of the most imposing 
building fronts in the city is that of the Boston and Maine Railroad 
passenger station, Washington street. It has two high granite towers, 
and a solid granite arched entrance of beautiful design. The building 



6o VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

was erected in 1847, and, with the exception of the front, was rebuilt 
in 18S2, the wooden portion of the structure having been destroyed by 
fire on the night of April 6, of that year. It replaced a wooden 
structure of curious design,— the original Eastern Railroad Station, — 
on which an old convent bell, captured at the seige of Port Royal, was 
rung by a one-legged veteran of 181 2 for a convenient number of 
minutes before the departure of out going trains for Boston or Ipswich, 
The stone station was built from sketches made by Capt. D. A. Neal, 
an early president of the road, after a structure in England which 
attracted his notice. The railroad tunnel passing under Washington 
street is 650 feet long and was completed in 1839. 

There are flag stations at North street, and Flint street, at which 
the Lowell and Wakefield trains stop, and one named "Atlantic" on 
the Marblehead branch. The " Forest River " station also on the Mar- 
blehead branch is on Lafayette street near the Marblehead and Salem 
boundary line, . 

The Lynn & Boston station is at Town House square, on a corner 
once owned by Hugh Peters. 

Armory of the Salem Cadets. — The Armory of the Salem Cadets, 
136 Essex street, stands on land formerly occupied by the residence of 
Governor Simon Bradstreet. The residence of the late Col. Francis 
Peabody, the portion of the armory fronting on Essex street, was 
built in 1819. In 1890, the Stephen Abbott Associates, Veterans of 
the Cadets, purchased this house and added the drill shed which is 86 
feet long and 79 feet wide. This hali is used for large meetings and 
fairs as well as the drills of the battalion. The rooms of the old 
mansion are admirably fitted for officers' quarters and the uses to 
which they are put by this organization. The " Banqueting Hall," a 
room elaborately ornamented in carved oak for Colonel Peabody, is 
an interesting feature of the house. In this room, Prince Arthur of 
England was entertained at dinner on the occasion of his attending 
the funeral of George Peabody, the banker, Feb. 8, J870. It is located 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. (5l 

in an addition to the house ; the architecture is gothic, after the style 
of the Elizabethan period. At one end is a stained glass window of 
four panels containing representations of both sides of the Massa- 
chusetts seal, the seal of the City of Salem and the Peabody coat-of- 
arms. The window has, besides, other designs. At the opposite end 
is a fireplace with Dutch jambs surmounted by a heavy chimney piece 
of oak elaborately carved and containing niches ornamented with 
statuettes. The central figure is Queen Victoria, and two mailed 
figures stand at each side. A lion surmounts the whole with a guards- 
man and priest on either hand. The walls of the room are arranged 
to admit light by opening doors leading to long windows not readily 
discovered by the visitor. The motive of the whole design gives the 
effect of a chapel, while a central chandelier, fitted with electric lights, 
casts about it a soft glow in keeping with the character of this unique 
room. The reception room on the first floor of the building is also as 
Colonel Peabody decorated it, with a fine Carrara mantel supported 
by caryatids, and with door frames and other finish in a style of 
architecture to conform. A small room, also on the lower floor, is dec- 
orated in the oriental style. The entire building is handsomely 
furnished and decorated with portraits of commanders of the Corps 
and military pictures in nearly every room. Two portraits (see list of 
portraits) by J. Harvey Young, who, when a Salem boy, lived on 
Oliver street, and became a distinguished portrait painter, are deserv- 
ing of special notice for their historic and romantic as well as their 
artistic interest. One is the portrait of Colonel Ellsworth and was 
painted from life while he was in Boston with his celebrated Chicago 
Zouaves. The companion picture, that of Lieutenant Brownell, was 
also painted in Boston from life and in the same uniform he wore at 
the time he shot Jackson, Ellsworth's assassin, at Alexandria. These 
two portraits and one other were all that Mr. Young saved from the 
great fire in Boston in 1S72, when he immediately presented them to 
the Cadets. The likenesses, strong both in feature and character, are 
as valuable from their associations, as any portraits in Salem. 



62 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

The Salem Cadet band has its headquarters in the Armory building. 
This band, under the leadership of Mr. Jean Missud, has gained a na- 
tional reputation. The Salem Band, one of the oldest organizations 
of this character in the state, has its rooms in Hale's building. The 
Eighth Regiment Band is located in a building on Front street. The 
Lafayette (French) Band has rooms on Lafayette street near the 
Father INTathew fountain. Salem has always been noted for its ex- 
cellent military and concert bands and its orchestras. The leadership 
of Jerome H. Smith of the old Salem Band and the connection of 
Patricks. Gil more with the same organization as leader, which he left 
to take charge of his famous Boston and New York military bands, 
and later his gigantic jubilee concerts, will always be remembered in 
Salem. 

The Armory of the Salem Light Infantry is in Franklin Building. 
It consists of two large halls and ante-rooms. This organization put 
over four hundred men into active service during the Rebellion, and 
of the seventy-one officers and men who marched from Salem with its 
colors at the first call, forty-two came home with commissions ranging 
from lieutenants to brigadiers,— of the last no less than five. 



chaptp:r IV, 



City Buildings. 



THE City Hall stands on Washington street just north of Town 
House square. It has lately become an object of interest from 
the fact that within a few years a number of valuable paintings have 
been contributed to its collection, the whole properly marked with 
names and dates, and some of the unique antiquities of the old town 
records have been dug up and brought within reach of visitors. 

The hall was built from the surplus revenue of the United States 
treasury distributed in 1S37 to the states, and by them among the 
towns and cities. It was first used May 31, 1838, and cost when 
furnished about $23,000. It was made necessary by the increase of 
business, and by the removal of the fine old Macintire court house, 
where the town offices were— the court house where Washington was 
received— in order to make way for the Eastern Railroad tunnel at the 
north end of Washington street. It has since been enlarged and its 
business capacity and cost about doubled by an extension in the rear, 
built in 1876. The whole lot is covered now and the hall is again out- 
grown. The front of the hall is a plain but rather effective granite 
fagade surmounted with a gilded eagle, carved by Macintire, and 
originally placed on the wooden gateway at the western entrance of 
the common, which disappeared in 1850. The first floor of the City 
Hall is devoted to the ofiftces of the city treasurer, clerk of the school 
board, superintendent of schools, water board and overseers of the 
poor on the right hand, and those of the city clerk, city messenger, in- 
spector of buildings, superintendent of public property and board of 

(63) 



64 visitor's guide to salem. 

health on the left. On the second floor an elegant chamber, re- 
modelled in 1880 for the use of the mayor and aldermen, occupies the 
entire front of the building and contains a fine copy of Stuart's full- 
length Washington, painted for the state of Rhode Island and hang- 
ing at the capitol at Newport. This copy was made by James Froth- 
ingham on the order of Abiel Abbot Low of New York, who presented 
it in 1862 to his native city. The chamber contains also/<2r simile No. 
34, done on silk, of the crayon portrait of General Grant, presented to 
his widow in 1885 by the Grand Army of the Republic. Portraits of 
Leverett Sa.ltonstall, Salem's first mayor, painted by Charles Osgood, 
of Henry Kemble Oliver, who was mayor of Salem on his eightieth 
birthday, the gift of his family and painted by Miss Adelaide Cole, and 
of Charles Albert Read, the donor of $40,000, the largest gift of money 
ever received by the City of Salem, of which he was a native, painted 
by J. Harvey Young, and presented in 1888 by his only son. A fine 
portrait of Abiel Abbot Low, the founder of the Low Fund (educa- 
tional) has been lately added. Mr. Low was born here February 7^ 
1811, and died at Brooklyn, N. Y., January 7, 1893. Our latest school 
house bears his name. The picture, by P. P. Rider of New York, is a 
replica of one painted for the Packer Collegiate Institute of Brooklyn, 
of which Mr. Low was president, and was presented by his distin- 
guished sons, A. A., and Seth Low of New York and Brooklyn. The 
furnishing and decorations of this chamber are modern and it is bril- 
liantly lighted at night with two electric chandeliers. 

Across the entry and opening into it by wide swinging doors, is the 
common-council chamber, which remains substantially as to its furni- 
ture and appointments, with the exception of its electric lighting, as it 
was arrangedjn 1838. Its desks form a large circle around the cham- 
ber, which is amply large for the public reception of distinguished 
guests, for public hearings of general interest, and for such municipal 
functions as gather a large concourse of citizens, as well as for the 
ordinary meetings of the common council and school board, and for 



CITY BUILDINGS. 65 

meetings of larger citizens' committees on extraordinary occasions. 
On the walls of this well-designed and dignified council chamber will 
he found other pictures of interest and merit. Another Washington 
hangs here, the work of Jane Stuart, copied from a half-length portrait 
painted by her father. The lettering under the picture commemorates 
the visit of Washington to Salem in 1789. On Washington's left hangs 
a striking likeness of the Marquis de Lafayette, a copy by Charles 
Osgood from a painting by the electrician, Morse, and the visits of the 
illustrious Frenchman to Salem in 1784 and 1824 are here recorded. 
Perhaps the most notable work in the hall is a portrait of Andrew 
Jackson, by Maj. R. E. W. Earle, of the General's military family, 
done at the time of his northern tour, in the course of which he visited 
Salem in 1833, and representing him as a much younger man and in a 
much less conventional light than the more familiar likenesses have 
done. The painting was presented to the city in 1891 by Benjamin 
Barstow, Esq., for whose uncle, Andrew Dunlap, it was painted. 

The companion picture on the northern wall is a likeness, and a very 
good one, of Lieutenant-General Philip H. Sheridan, as we knew him 
towards the end of his brilliant career, when he visited Salem in 1S88. 
It is the work of C. C. Redmond. On the southern wall are the por- 
traits of governor John Endicott, an admirable copy by Geo. Southard 
of the original painting in possession of the family, and of governor 
Simon Bradstreet, a spirited copy by Joseph De Camp, of the portrait 
in the State House, Boston. On the right of the chair is a portrait of 
John Glen King, the president of our first Common Council, copied 
by Frank W. Benson in 1886, from a portrait by Charles Osgood, now 
the property of the Essex Institute. On the left of the chair hangs a 
curious old parchment, dated 1686, upon which is beautifully engrossed 
in that obsolete handwriting, the envy of our day, what purports to be 
a warrant deed of all the land in town from the heirs of Nanepashe- 
met to the selectmen of Salem in trust for our people. These Indian 
chiefs, most of them marksmen in a double sense, for they executed 



6(:) visitor's guide to SALEM. 

this deed in every known way save by adding their autograph signa- 
tures thereto, undertook for the moderate consideration of twenty 
pounds, to confirm and establish the title of the white colonists be- 
yond all cavil, aad in witness of this gen zirous intent affixed their signs 
manual in shapes which look like bows and arrows, and tomahawks, 
and hsh hooks, and samp bowls, and tobacco pipes, and then to make 
all sure, added impressions in wax of a seal which some accommodat- 
ing conveyancer placed at their service, and duly acknowledged the 
whole transaction as their free act before no less a personage than 
that august dignitary, Bartholomew Gedney. The first name in the 
eminent list of witnesses to the deed is that of Andrew Eliot, the 
octogenarian town clerk of Beverly, and ancestor of a distinguished 
progeny of Eliots all over the country, John Eliot Thayer, J. Eliot 
Cabot, and President Eliot of Harvard, being among the number. 

This expedient was resorted to in order to secure our land titles 
against the threatened aggressions of James ii, who was then bent on 
cancelling the colonial charters and arrogating all rights, privileges 
and immunities unto his royal person. In Connecticut the charter was 
secreted in the famous oak. In Massachusetts and the Providence 
Plantations, now Rhode Island, steps of the kind described were 
attempted, but, although the courts of our sister state have shown 
some respect for these Indian titles, and have not scrupled to base 
legal proceedings thereon, a different view has been taken in Massa- 
chusetts. 

The second lloor, besides these two chambers and the necessary retir- 
ing rooms for the use of committees and members of the city council, 
furnishes two convenient ofhces for his Honor the Mayor, and a room 
for the street commissioner and the committee on streets, bridges and 
sewers, together with accomodations for the board of assessors, in 
which these last named functionaries pursue, day by day, the dreadful 
work of dooming their fellow men. 

In the city clerk's office may be seen the original of a contract for 



CITY BUILDINGS. 6/ 

the enlarf^ement of our first church, dated 1638 and executed by Gov- 
ernor Endicott, who probably wrote it, by John Woodbury, by Wm. 
Hathorne, by Lawrence Leach and by Roger Conant on the one part, 
and by John Pickering on the other. These signers all obtained at 
least a local celebrity, and Endicott, Woodbury and Hathorne a good 
deal more. The signers on the one side represented the town, which 
was then identical with the parish, and on the other was the ancestor 
of Timothy Pickering who in his time filled every place in Washing- 
ton's Cabinet, and whose father and son were both conspicuous citi- 
zens of the town. 

The City Hall is open from 8 a. m. until 5 p. m. each day in the 
week, except Saturday, when it closes at 2 p. m. It is generally open 
in the evening for some meeting of a board or committee, so that the 
visitor will rarely seek admittance in vain. He will find the urbane 
messenger and his assistant, and the city clerk, all veterans of the 
war, always pleased to act as guides in examining the art treasures 
and archaic curiosities of the place. It is the peoples' heirloom and 
they like to have their guests enjoy it. 

Town Hall.— The "Town Hall" and market house, now standing 
in Derby square, was built in 1816. It cost about $12,000. The 
lower story was opened as a market Nov. 25, 18 16, and the hall above 
was first opened to the public July 8, 181 7, on the occasion of the visit 
of President Monroe to Salem. It was used for town meetings and 
other gatherings until the incorporation of Salem as a city, in 1836. 
The market house is leased to various parties for meat and provision 
"stalls." The land on which the Town Hall stands was a portion 
of the estate of Elias Haskett Derby, a successful merchant. He 
built in 1799 a mansion facing Essex street, which cost |8o,ooo. The 
square now occupied by the Town Hall was named Derby Square in 
his honor, but is generally referred to now as Market Square. The 
mansion of Mr. Derby was the most sumptuous and elegant ever 
erected in Salem. Its picture may be seen in the second edition of 



68 visitor's guide to salem. 

Felt's Annals. He lived in it but a few months and not long after his 
death it was closed and offered for sale. No purchaser was found for 
so costly an establishment and the heirs finally conveyed it to the 
town for the purpose indicated. The estate extended in finely 
appointed grounds to the river and one condition of the gift was that 
a public fish market should be forever maintained on it. During the 
war of 181215, the provost marshal's office was in the old Higginson 
House in Higginson Square and the late Wm. H. Foster, then deputy 
provost marshal, was the custodian of the mansion and used to take 
visitors over it in large numbers, some confessedly from curiosity and 
some professing a wish to inspect it with the idea that they might be- 
come lessees or buyers. It was ultimately torn down, and part of its 
elaborate wood work used in finishing General Oliver's house, number 
142 Federal street. It occupied the precise spot where Mandamus 
Councillor, Colonel Brown lived, and on August 24, 1774 entertained 
Gov. Gage with his civil and military staff, while Timothy Pickering, 
summoned by the sheriff into their presence, kept his excellency so 
long in an " indecent passion " that the town meeting the Governor 
had come there to disperse had transacted its business and adjourned 
without day. 

The Police Station. — The Police Station is No. 15 Front street. 
It is a plain brick building. A very good library of upwards of 1,000 
volumes, contributed by citizens and members of the police force, is 
arranged in cases in one of the rooms. A cabinet of police curiosities 
occupies a place in the assistant marshal's office. 

Fire Department. — The houses and apparatus of the fire depart- 
ment are modern in architecture and are well kept and cared for, the 
best examples being the quarters of the steamers on Church street and 
at the junction of Lafayette and Washington, and the hose house on 
North street. The locations are as follows : — 

Steamer i, "William Chase," Lafa3'ette street corner of Washington. 

Steamer 2, " City of Salem," 30 Church street. 



Crrv BUILDINGS. 69 

Steamer " Victor," North street above Dearborn. 

Chemical Engine No. i, Church street. 

Hook and Ladder Co's., 178 Bridge street. 

Hose, '"Constitution," Webb street near Bridge. 

Hose, "J: A. Lord," 60 Boston street. 

Hose, " Active," North street above Dearborn. 

The Veteran Firemen's Association occupy the hose house on 
Derby street and have a hand engine of the old-fashioned kind which 
is sometimes used in an emergency. 

The Almshouse. — Prior to 1660 the Almshouse occupied the site of 
the State Normal School at the corner of Broad and Summer streets 
and later the north-westerly portion of the Common (Washington Sq.) 
was occupied for this purpose. The Almshouse now is the large old- 
fashioned brick building on city land at the "Neck " seen at the left 
from the road to the Willows. It was built in 1816, from the plans of 
Charles Bulrinch who was the architect. A large building adjoining 
this was erected in 1884, as a ward for the insane, W. D. Dennis being 
the architect. The grounds about the buildings are well cared for and 
a good farm is connected with the institution. Bentley's rock, a daily 
haunt of Dr. Bentley, is near by, on the higher ground. 

The City Fish Market is at 25 Front street opposite Derby square. 
It is a brick building erected within a few years and with all the 
modern appliances for its special use. It stands on land given to the 
city for this especial purpose by E. H. Derby's heirs, being once a 
portion of his garden. 

Other Departments.— The Street and Lamp Department and City 
Water Works Department occupy buildings on Bridge street near the 
foot of Howard street. The buildings at Wenham Lake (five miles 
from the cit}') occupied as the pumping station of the City" Water 
Works, and a building on Church street, occupied by the same depart- 
ment, are substantial brick structures. The City Hall, Police Station,, 
almsh ouse and fire department stations are connected with the tele- 



70 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 



phone exchange, which gives communication throughout the city, and 
the city has also a special police circuit, furnished by the Metropolitan 
]3uplex Police signal company, and the well devised Pearce and Jones 
fire alarm system. 




Public Library {Main Hall). 



Public Library (P^xterior). 



CHAPTER V. 

Lih)-aries^ Scie?7tijic Institutions^ etc. 

THE Public Library. On the first of December, 1887, the heirs of 
Capt. John Bertram offered to the city his late residence on Es- 
sex street, at the corner of Monroe street, to be used for a public 
library. On the twenty-seventh of the same month the city accepted 
the gift and instructed its committee to petition the Legislature for 
authority to issue bonds to the amount of ^25,000 for the use of the 
library. By the provisions of the deed of gift the management of the 
library is vested in a board of seven trustees, six elected for life by 
the city council, and the mayor ex-officio a member and chairman of 
the board. The city council on Feb. 27, 1887, elected trustees who at 
once began the work of preparing the building for use as a library. 
Scarcely any alterations were made in the exterior of the building but 
the first, second and third floors were entirely removed and rebuilt 
in a much stronger manner. The first story consists of one great hall 
entered through a vestibule and divided in the centre by a counter 
with a screen and spindle work above, making the entrance half of 
the building a public lobby about 24 by 38 feet all finished in oak, with 
a wainscot 3 feet 6 inches high, and tiled floor. Here the books are 
received and delivered over the counter. The rest of the floor is 
given up to stacking space and a small room for the use of the 
librarian. In the ell there is a small room for cataloguing books. At 
one end of the main hall on the chimney breast over the fireplace is 
the city seal carved in oak; and at the other end a colonial staircase 
running up to the second story. On the second floor is the general 

(71) 



72 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

reading room about 2^ by 42 feet, with a wainscot of oak five feet 
high, painted walls and fitted with oak furniture. There is also a 
special reference room 17 by 26 feet finished in ash and a smaller 
room in the ell for the use of the trustees. 

The third floor which is about 44 by 46 feet is used for stacking 
space. There is a large unfinished attic above this story. The base- 
ment, one-half of which is entirely above ground, is taken up with a 
janitor's room, two work rooms for binding and repairing books, a 
boiler room, etc. The cost of the alterations on the building was 
$22,153.10. The library was opened to the public for the delivery of 
books, July 8, 1889. Upon the completion of the library building and 
removal of the books thereto there were 11,212 volumes on the printed 
finding-lists. There are in the library now 32,000 volumes. The 
building is surrounded with an ample lawn, on which stands the " Ber- 
tram Elm," the finest American elm in this region. On the walls of the 
library hang excellent portraits of Rev. Joseph B, Felt, the author of 
" Felt's Annals of Salem," painted by Edgar Parker and presented to 
the library by Hon. J. B. F. Osgood, and of Capt. John Bertram, by 
F. P. Vinton of Boston, presented by his widow and daughters. Also 
a painting by Clement R. Grant, entitled "A Witchcraft accusation, " 
the gift of Mrs. C. B. Kimball, and "Ashore; Low Tide," a painting 
by Ross Turner, deposited by the artist. The library is open every 
day for the delivery of books (Sundays and legal holidays excepted) 
from 9 A. M. to 8 p. m., and on Saturday until 9 p. m. The reading 
room is open every weekday from 9 a. m. to 10 p.m. and on Sundays 
from. 2 p. M. to 8 p. m. 

Salem Athenaeum, Plummer Hall. — The Salem Athenaeum was 
incorporated in March, 1810. Its character and objects are in many 
respects like those of the Boston Athenaeum. It was the outgrowth 
of the "Social Library" of 1760, and of the "Philosophical Library" 
of 1781. The library consisting of 20,000 volumes is contained in a 
finely proportioned, lofty and well lighted hall in the second story, en- 




Essex Institute {I^xterior). 



Essex Institute (Historical Room), 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC 73 

trance to the same being had through an ante-room which is used as a 
reading room by the members. The number of shareholders is one 
hundred, but persons not proprietors can avail themselves of the 
privileges of the library by paying an annual subscription of six 
dollars. The library rooms are open from 8.30 a. m. to 6 p. m. daily 
except Sundays and holidays. Although the Salem Athenaeum is not 
a free public institution, visitors may generally be admitted by apply- 
ing to the librarian. 

Plummer Hall is so called in honor of Ernestus Augustus Plummer, 
whose sister, directing that her gift should be recorded in his name, 
bequeathed to the proprietors of the Salem Athenaeum the sum of 
thirty thousand dollars for the purchase of a piece of land and the 
erecting of a suitable building for the use of that corporation. The 
land on which Plummer Hall stands was once the property of Eman- 
uel Downing, and has been the domicile of Gov. Bradstreet and the 
homestead estate of Hon. Nathan Read, M. C (inventor of a steam- 
boat and nail machine, 1780-90), and of Joseph Peabody, at the time of 
its conveyance to the proprietors of the Athenaeum. William H. 
Prescott, the historian, was born in the eastern chamber of the house 
which became in 1799, the Peabody Mansion, The lower floor of 
Plummer Hall is occupied by the Essex Institute for its art and horti- 
cultural exhibitions, its lectures and public meetings, and also for that 
portion of its library devoted to national and state documents, college 
reports, Essex County and other newspaper files, and sundry special 
libraries which are not in such general demand as those placed in its 
own building. 

The Essex Institute, 132 Essex street. This society was incorpo- 
rated in 1848 having for its objects the promotion of history, science 
and art in Essex County. It is supported by an annual assessment of 
:?3 from each of its members now numbering nearly 900, and by the in- 
come from its funds. These, however, being inadequate at all times to 
meet the expenditures required in carrying out its objects, the society 



74 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

has to depend upon subscriptions and gifts from friends and well wish- 
ers. The societ}^ Was formed by the union of the Essex Historical and 
the Essex County Natural History societies, and for a series of years 
has held field meetings covering every portion of Essex County. 

The Essex Historical Society was incorporated in 1821, having for 
its object the collection and preservation of all authentic material 
illustrating the civil history of the county of Essex. The venerable 
Dr. Edward A. Holyoke, who always took the most lively interest in 
whatever concerned American literature and science, was its first 
president. The zeal of the members and their friends, in a short time, 
gathered together a valuable collection of portraits and relics illustra- 
tive of the early history of the county, and the nucleus of a library, 
containing files of local newspapers, pamphlets, etc. These were first 
housed in Essex place on Essex street facing Central, then in a room 
over the Salem Bank in Pickman place, where Downing Block now 
stands, and afterwards in Lawrence place, at the corner of Washing- 
ton and Front streets. The society had on its roll of membership the 
names of many men of wide distinction such as Timothy Pickering, 
Benjamin W. Crowninshield, Nathaniel Silsbee, Nathan Dane, Daniel 
A. White, Rufus Choate, Leverett Saltonstall, C'harles W. Upham, 
Stephen C. Phillips, Nathaniel Bowditch, Benjamin Pickman, 
Joseph B. Felt and others. 

The Essex County Natural History Society was organized in 1833 
largely through the efforts of Dr. Henry Wheatland. It had at first a 
room in the second story of a building in Essex place, opposite Cen- 
tral street. The collection in the spring of 1834 was hardly large 
enough to fill a bookcase which had been given to the society. In 
1835, it moved into the fourth story of the Franklin building, at the 
corner of Washington square and Essex street, but this proving an 
unsuitable place it again moved in 1837, to the Masonic Hall on 
Washington street, where the Holyoke building now stands. Here 
the Museum occupied a room 15 by 30 feet, adjoining a larger one 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 75 

used for meetings and lectures. The collections could be seen by 
visitors at the meetings of the society and at the horticultural exhibi- 
tions, which were at this time frequent and popular. In 1842, the 
Society moved to the rooms in the Pickman place building, 173 Essex 
street, formerly occupied by the East India Marine Museum. This 
building was altered in 1844 when a number of new cases were built 
and the collection re-arranged. A small room on the lower floor 
served as a laboratory for zoological and anatomical work, and was 
occupied much of the time by active members of the society. 

The Essex Institute at the time of its formation in 1848, occupied 
the rooms of the above society at 173 Essex street, and moved thence 
in 1857 to the newly built Plummer Hall, where its museum was 
arranged in the lower story in the cases now used for books. About 
this time several of the young members of the Institute began the 
study of zoology with the elder Agassiz at the then new museum in 
Cambridge. They w^ere still often in Salem and with their fellow 
students did much to improve the collections of the Institute and, in 
1864, when several assistants left Cambridge, they came to Salem and 
were employed part of the time at the Institute. In consequence of 
the activity of the Institute at this time in the study of natural history, 
and in collecting material for the formation of a large and valuable 
zoological and ethnological museum, the attention of Mr. George Pea- 
body of London was called to the advisability of placing these depart- 
ments upon a permanent and substantial basis, which was done by 
his gift of $140,000, and the establishment, in 1867, of the Peabody 
Academy of Science. The natural history collections of the Institute 
were then transferred to the care of the trustees of the Academy and 
the energetic group of workers in natural history who had given Salem 
quite a name as a scientific centre, connected themselves with that 
institution. The efforts of the Institute since that time in advancing 
the cause of science have been confined to the publication in its 
Bulletin of articles relating to science and in aiding, through its field 



76 visitor's guide to salem. 

meetings and lectures, the spirit of research into matters connected 
with the natural history of the county. Contributions of specimens of 
a scientific nature which, through members or others, now come to the 
Institute are, under the arrangement with the Peabody Academy of 
Science, deposited with that institution where they are properly cared 
for, labelled, and exhibited. Since 1867, therefore, the objects of the 
Essex County Natural History Society have been carried out by the 
Academy and the special work of the Essex Institute has been in the 
way of local history and genealogy along the lines laid down by the 
founders of the Essex Historical Society. It has been the aim of the 
Institute to bring together as large a collection as possible to illustrate 
in every way the history of the county. And the Academy efficiently 
co-operates in this object, by reciprocally depositing with the Institute 
whatever of value it receives, whether in print or otherwise, bearing 
on the civil history of the county. A museum has thus been formed 
at the Institute, now attaining large dimensions, consisting of house- 
hold and other utensils, illustrating the home life of the early settlers 
and those who followed them; revolutionary and other war relics, por- 
traits, manuscripts, and everything which in any way can be con- 
sidered as belonging to the different periods of the history of Salem 
and the County. In June, 1887, the Institute moved from Plummer 
Hall into its new building, 132 Essex street. This building was erected 
by Tucker Daland, a well-known merchant of Salem, in 185 1, and 
afterwards became the property of his son-in-law. Dr. Benjamin Cox, 
from whose heirs it was purchased by the Institute, the amount paid 
being taken from a fund bequeathed by the late William Burley 
Howes. Through the generosity of friends of the society the building 
was handsomely fitted for its new uses. It is a most substantial and 
commodious edifice of brick with freestone trimmings, and was 
designed by Gridley J. F. Bryant of Boston. It is well proportioned, 
dignified in character and in keeping with the purposes for which it 
is now used. Entering the building the visitor is ushered into a hall 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, KTC. ^'] 

of ample size, in which stands a clock of early American make. On the 
walls hang the following paintings: "Interior" showing Japanese 
cabinet, old music books, etc. (this is a very old Dutch painting and 
is interesting, not only from its artistic merit, but for the fidelity with 
w^hich the articles of bric-a-brac are depicted) ; " Destruction of the 
ship Harvey Birch," an episode of the Civil War; Scene from Henry 
Vni, after Peters by Mrs. Alpheus Hyatt and a very valuable collec- 
tion of water colors by Ross Turner, exhibited at Chicago, to represent 
the different styles of architecture prevailing in Salem. In the Secre- 
tary's office, on the left, can be seen a complete set of the publications 
of the Institute ; a clock made by S. Hoadley, Plymouth (Conn.) ; a 
sketch of the City Seal by Ross Turner; a fac-simile of the agreement 
to enlarge the First Church, 1638, and a collection of engravings, pho- 
tographs and manuscripts which are changed from time to time but 
are always of interest. Here, too, will be found the visitor's book for 
registry of names of those who desire to visit the First Church build- 
ing in the rear. On the walls hang portraits of the officers of the Essex 
Historical and Essex County Natural History societies, the fore- 
runners of the Essex Institute (see list of portraits), also interesting 
examples of the naval architecture of the period of Salem's greatest 
activity in foreign trade, comprising water colors of the ships Trent, 
Governor Endicott, Erin, John, Hazard, Mt. Vernon, Leander, Patriot 
and Francis, every one of which had its thrilling story; also three 
sketches of the schooner Baltic, 1766, and the following paintings: 
The old Court House built in 1785, with a view of Washington street ; 
the launching;of the ship Fame ; Crowninshield's whirf, as it appeared 
during the embargo in 1806, painted by George Ropes, and a whaling 
scene in the South Atlantic painted by Benj. F. West of Salem. 
Above the mantel hangs the portrait, by A^inton, of the nestor of the 
Institute, the late Dr. Henry Wheatland, the gift of his nephews, the 
late ex-mayor Stephen G. Wheatland and Mr. George Wheatland of 
Boston. 



78 visitor's guide to salem. 

Passing through an ante-room one notices a cast of the Rosetta 
stone, the original of which is now in the British museum. This stone 
was discovered by Napoleon's army in August, 1799, near Rosetta, 
Lower Egypt. The three inscriptions are in three different languages 
—Hieroglyphic, Demotic (or language of the country) and Greek, be- 
ing counterparts or repetitions of each other. The Greek and Demotic, 
being known languages, gave to Chanipolion the long sought key to 
the hieroglyphics of Ancient Egypt. The event recorded is the decree 
issued at the coronation of Ptolemy Epiphanes, which took place at 
Memphis in the month of March, 193 years before Christ. Here, 
also, are pictures of the ships Sooloo, Panay and Eliza ; the capture 
of the frigate Essex and a naval engagement between French and 
English Frigates, the last two the work of George Ropes ; a water-color 
view of Mocha, in Arabia ; lithographs of Lynn and Salem ; views of the 
court house, 1830; St. Peter's church, 1833; East and North churches; 
All Saints church, Wilts co-unty, England, and church of Little 
Waldingford, Suffolk county, England ; views of Pickman house, 1 744 ; 
Derby house, 1760; Roger Williams' house, 1635; Bradstreet house, 
17C0; Washington street, 1765; view of Harvard College, engraved 
by Paul Revere ; a view of Dartmoor prison and a Napoleon burlesque, 
with a large collection of silhouettes and engravings of well-known 
citizens. Fire buckets surmount the doorways, and a bit of stained 
glass from one of the old Italian churches will also attrac^notice. 

The visitor then] enters the historical museum, which occupies 
tw^o rooms. The first case on the right is devoted to wearing 
apparel, such as an old wig worn by Rev. Eliab Stone, minister 
in N. Reading, Mass., 1761-1822, old hats, bonnets, umbrellas, 
slippers, shoes and shoe buckles from 1760 to 1850: the 
second case contains cooking utensils, household implements, candle 
moulds, tools, locks, keys, iron ware, etc.; the third embroidery, 
samplers and needle work; the fourth is devoted to marine models and 
instruments, a full-rigged ship in w^ood, whale's teeth engraved and 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 79 

ornaments made by sailors, and a two-hour glass used in pulpits in the 
old days to lime the preaching; the ^Ifth, besides a coat of mail of the 
time of Cortez, contains weapons and military relics including several 
from Waterloo ; the sixth is devoted to the pottery collection — of 
special interest are the puzzle pitcher, the Nelson and Washington 
pitchers, the silvered pottery, a Delft plate of 165 1, Lowestoft (really 
Oriental) ware, ginger jars of different periods, undecorated Canton 
ware, old blue china and examples of European and Oriental ware, 
and tiles. In the centre of the room, in case six, are miniatures, 
funeral rings, etc.; in cases seven and eight are personal relics, such as 
gloves of Governor Leverett, sun dial of Governor Endicott, sampler 
wrought by Ann Gower, wife of Governor Endicott ; baptismal shirt 
of Governor Bradstreet ; waistcoat of Captain Haraden, of the time of 
the Revolution ; Napoleon relics, including coffee cup belonging to set 
used by him during the retreat from Moscow; watches of Rev. John 
Clarke, Maj. Clarke, Captain Joshua Johnson and William Cleveland; 
canes used by George Jacobs, executed for witchcraft 1692 ; lock of the 
room in which Jefferson wrote the Declaration of Independence; a 
padlock and key weighing two grains; cherry-stone containing 113 
silver spoons ; tea from the Boston Harbor Tea party. Case nine con- 
tains seals, including the original design made by Mr. George Pea- 
bod^ for the seal of the City of Salem, the Royal seal of Great Britain, 
German seals of 1525, seals of Pius VI, seal of Doge Morisini CVIII 
Doge of Venice, seals of local corporations, etc. Case ten is devoted 
to embroidery. Masonic and other emblems. Case eleven is devoted 
to manuscripts, including John Holyoke's scrap book, 1660; parch- 
ment deed of Charles Downing, 1700; sermons, 1638 to 1745, one 
preached by George Curwen at the First Church, 17 16, on a day of 
thanksgiving, for the succession of George First over the Pretender ; 
airtographs of Washington, Lafayette, Lincoln, Gladstone, Grant, 
Benedict Arnold and others. On raised stands in the room will be 
found a collection of household utensils, such as cranes, including one 



8o visitor's guide to SALEM. 

from the house in which Hawthorne was born, fire backs, fire dogs,. 
Dutch ovens, tobacco tongs, foot stoves, tin kitchens, toast racks, 
warming jDans, coffee roasters, samp mortar, old Franklin stove, etc. 
On the walls are carvings by Macintire, a window with the original 
leaded panes from the Buffum house; vanes of 1683 and 1711 ; balus- 
ters from historic houses, sections of stairways, capitals, urns, dados, 
cornices and other articles of interest to antiquarians, architects and 
house decorators. The portraits in this room (>ee list of portraits) are 
of persons whose names are prominent in Salem's history. The larger 
room beyond is hung with historical portraits by Copley, Smibert, 
Trumbull and others (see list of portraits). Here, also, will be found 
a piano, the first used in Topsfield, and made by Benjamin Crehore, 
of Milton, the first American piano maker; an early Clementi grand 
piano; a Broadwood piano of 1791, and a spinet made by Samuel 
Blyth, of Salem, supposed to be one of the earliest made in this 
country, and, besides, a model of a chest of drawers made previous to 
the Revolution by a member of the Cabot family ; lace frame in use in 
Ipswich previous to 1790; American clock, T. Hoadley, Plymouth, 
(Conn.) maker, and one made by Richard Manning, Ipswich, 1767; a 
book stand used for keeping registry of arrivals of vessels, etc., in 
Pierce's City News room, Salem ; model of the old Becket house, near 
Phillips' wharf; a mosaic representing Vesuvius about 1820; models of 
the William Penn and Lafayette old type hose carriages; a mill-stone 
brought from England 1630 by Lieut. Francis Peabody; links of a 
chain stretched across the Hudson at West Point, during the Revolu- 
tionary war, to prevent passage of British ships; Judge Story's cradle, 
wool, flax and clock reels ; tape looms ; quilting machines ; a design in 
plaster from the wall of the old Sun Tavern; chair owned by Nath- 
aniel Bowditch ; rush bottom chairs from Trask house, about 1700; 
lacquered table brought from Japan by ship Franklin, the first Ameri- 
can vessel to visit that country ; stand for christening basin, in use at 
First Church, Salem, in 1691 ; table upon which Moll Pitcher told for- 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 8l 

tunes during the Revolution ; model of stone arch at Harmony Grove 
cemeter}', designed by Mr. Francis Peabody; table in use by Orne 
family previous to iSoo; child's chair, about 1790; a sofa covered with 
tapestry, brought from Normandy by a family of French Huguenots, 
who came to this country soon after the revocation of the edict of 
Nantes by Louis XIV in 16S5, which for many years was in the 
possession of the family of John Appleton of Salem ; an oaken chair of 
the time of Queen Elizabeth, one of a set of four belonging to ihe 
Farley family of Ipswich, brought to this country in 1635 by the first 
immigrants of the Dennis family. 

As you enter this room will be found in the first case a collection of 
revolutionary hats, uniforms, muskets, swords, powder horns, bullets, 
uniforms of local military organizations and a saddle bag used at 
Bunker Hill. In the second case may be seen old glass, wine glasses 
(1700 to 1800), a large glass beaker of 1654, Gen. Miller's gin fiask of 
the War of 1812, old pressed bottles and glasses, old pewter dishes, 
cups and mugs, a communion service of 1685, old lamps, candlesticks, 
snuffers and tinder boxes, copper breakfast set of the last century 
and a loan collection, from David Little, Esq., of Nuremberg iron 
work and German beer mugs ; the third case contains a very interest- 
ing collection of old fans, shell combs, spectacles, old writing material, 
fine snuff boxes, wallets, dolls, toys, ancient fabrics, a liquor case of 
181 1, an old English guitar, 'death mask of Dante, tape, pins, etc., in 
use previous to 1820, printing blocks of the 15th century; in the fourth 
case will be seen some handsome specimens of Canton China con- 
tributed by Mrs. H. P. Sturgis and others, with English, French,, 
Delft, and American ware, — specimens of the common pottery of Italy 
including toys and the like brought home by Ross Turner, — and also 
some Roman antiquities. A collection of manuscripts, money, seals,, 
snuff boxes, papers, etc., will be found in table cases distributed about 
this room. The very large and valuable collection of manuscripts be- 
longing to the Institute is stored in a fire-proof room in the rear of/ 



82 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

the museum room. This collection while not on exhibition to the 
public is at the service of persons interested in the study of local 
history, upon application made to the curator. It includes family 
papers, revolutionary documents, valuable autographs, commissions, 
sea letters, etc. In this room also can be seen the wood carvings by 
Macintire, which formerly adorned the fine old wooden gates of Salem 
Common, before the erection of the present iron fence. 

The library and reading rooms on the second floor are reached by 
passing up the main staircase, which is lined with portraits (see list of 
portraits). Entering the library through the librarian's room, on the 
right is found the room devoted to town histories, genealogies, the 
publications of historical societies, etc. Here hangs a valuable oil 
painting presented to the Institute by the artist, Mr. Ross 7'urner, 
entitled the " Last Haven," representing the United States frigate 
Niagara as she lay at Charlestown previous to being condemned and 
broken up. The room adjoining contains biographies and books of 
travel, etc.; here, over the mantel, is a painting by Mattison of the 
trial of George Jacobs for witchcraft in 1692, the costumes being con- 
sidered faithful reproductions of those worn at that time. From this 
room opens a small room devoted to works of Essex county authors 
and files of local newspapers, from which one enters a room largely 
occupied by the classical library of the late D. A. White, formerly 
judge of probate, the first president of the Essex Institute, and one of 
its most devoted friends. Here will be seen a fine oil j^ainting repre- 
senting an incident in the War of the Roses, and entitled the "War 
Summons." This picture w^as given to the Institute by the artist 
George Leslie, R. A., of London, as a tribute from him to the genius 
of Nathaniel Hawthorne. In the adjoining room is the art library, a 
well selected collection of books upon the different departments of 
the arts. Many of the most interesting of these were presented by the 
heirs of Mr. Francis Peabody, a former president, being selected from 
his large and valuable library. Here also is placed the China library. 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 83 

which now numbers upwards of six hundred volumes, and is one of 
the best collections of the kind in the country. The remaining room 
on this floor is largely devoted to the library of the late Augustus 
Story, whose portrait in crayon hangs over the entrance. It was be- 
queathed to the Institute for purposes of reference, the books not 
being allowed to circulate. Here is an oil painting presented by the 
artist. Miss Fidelia Bridges, and a very characteristic example of her 
work. These rooms are in constant use by members, not only for 
consultation of books but for reading, the tables being well supplied 
with daily and weekly papers and the leading monthly and quarterly 
magazines. Upon the third floor, which is not as yet open to the 
public, are located the scientific books and exchanges, the theological 
library, a collection of directories and many rare and valuable 
volumes. Among the treasures of the library these deserve mention : 
complete files of newspapers,— possessing to the antiquary, the histori- 
cal student and the conveyancer, a value hardly to be exaggerated- 
including the Salem Gazette, News, Register and Observer, Lynn 
Reporter, Danvers Courier, Peabody Press, Boston Advertiser, Post 
and Journal, the National Intelligencer, Liberator, Anti-slavery Stan- 
dard, Christian Register, with less complete files of the New York 
Post, Tribune and Herald, Commercial Advertiser, Independent, 
Columbian Centinel, Boston Transcript, Pennsylvania Packet and 
Philadelphia Aurora ; a copy of Audubon's Birds of America, the gift 
of the late Mrs. Eliza L. Rogers, of Salem ; copies of the late J. Fisk 
Allen's splendidly illustrated foHo monograph of the great water lily 
of the Amazon, the Victoria regia ; a large paper copy of the rare folio 
History of the North American Indians, with biographies and hand 
colored portraits of one hundred and twenty leading chiefs, the gift of 
Airs. Susan Burley Cabot, of Salem (this great collection in twenty 
parts, was issued to subscribers onl}', between 1832 and 1844, and the 
pictures, being copied from originals in oil, procured at great cost by 
the War Department, lost in the burning of a wing of the Smithsonian 



84 visitor's guide to salem. 

Institution, have become unique and valuable) ; volumes of English^ 
Greek and Latin classics selected for the private library of the donor, 
the late Judge White, first president of the Essex Institute; a collection 
of some three hundred Bibles and parts of Bibles of curious antiquity, 
including one, doubtless the oldest book in Essex county, dated before 
the discovery of America, in the year i486, a well preserved copy 
bought from a Carmelite Monastery in Bavaria and presented to the 
Institute by Rev. J. M. Hoppin, October 2, 1858; a royal folio work on 
the Mexican war, published in 1857, with descriptions of each battle 
and twelve finely colored plates done at Paris, of the principal con- 
flicts, the gift of Benj. W. Stone, Esq., of Salem ; four hundred log- 
books or sea journals, with shipmasters' instructions and correspond- 
ence, a part of them from the collection of the East India Marine So- 
ciety, kept by members of the famous fraternity of shipmasters which 
established that society, and many others, detailing privateering 
cruises in the two wars with England, and every sort of daring and ex- 
citing adventure ; as extensive a collection of city directories from all 
parts of the world, state registers, college catalogues of New England, 
etc., as can be found anywhere ; publications of two hundred and 
sixty-six societies, scientific, historical and literary, in all parts of the 
world, with which the Institute conducts exchanges. 

The fire-proof rooms on the second and third floors are used for the 
storage of photographs, engravings, coins, medals, and collections of 
printed material of local interest. To these, admission can only be 
had upon application to the secretary or curator. The rooms of the 
Institute and its collection of portraits, historical relics, etc., are open 
to visitors, and its library and reading rooms to members daily (except 
Sundays and legal holidays), from 9 a. m. to 6 p. m. during the summer 
months and from 9 a. m. to 5 r. m. in winter. Visitors to the old 
church can obtain the key on application at the secretary's office and 
registering their names in a book kept for that purpose. Visitors can 
obtain, free, of the secretary, an itinerary giving a list of places of 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 85 

interest in Salem to visit and circulars of information in regard to the 
Institute. A guide to the old church, pamphlets treating of scientific 
and historical subjects, and etchings of Salem houses are also for sale 
here. Public meetings of the Institute are held on Monday evenings 
at Plummer Hall during the winter, notices of which appear in the 
local papers. In summer specially appointed open-air meetings are 
held in different parts of the county. 7"he officers of the Institute are 
Edmund B. Willson,* president; William O. Chapman, treasurer; 
Charles S. Osgood, librarian, Henry M. Brooks, secretary. 

Every year many articles are destroyed in families which now or 
hereafter may have an historical value, and, therefore, it is suggested 
that donations would be acceptable to the society for preservation in 
its cabinets and archives of any of the following ; Paintings, ship 
pictures, portraits, miniatures, silhouettes, engravings, prints, photo- 
graphs (especially of Essex County places and people), stamps, seals, 
coins and medals, theatre bills, concert programmes, bills of fare, all 
kinds of circulars, continental and other currency, samplers and old 
needle work, old musical instruments, ancient furniture and clothing, 
old andirons, shovels and tongs, fire-b^ickets, warming-pans, old silver 
and metal spoons, old pewter, china and glassware, old watches and 
clocks, autographs and other manuscripts, old bills, letters and 
account books, books, pamphlets, newspapers, magazines, directories, 
etc. ; in fact all articles which now throw, or may in the future thrown, 
light on our history. 

The First Puritan Church organized in America was established in 
Salem in the summer of 1629 and the frame of its first house of wor- 
ship is now in possession of the Essex Institute and can be seen on 



*Rev. Edmund Burke Willson, died June 18, 1895, after an illness following a 
sudden attack of heart disease at the close of his services on Sunday, June 2, and 
on the thirty-sixth anniversary of his settlement as i^astor of the North Society of 
Salem. 



86 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

application to the secretary as above. The venerable structure 
originally stood at the corner of Higginson square and Essex 
street, — the northeasterly corner of the present First Church (see 
tablet). It was built in 1634, it is thought by one George Norton, a 
carpenter, who came out with Higginson in 1629. In 1639 the build- 
ing was enlarged and, on the erection of a second edifice in 1670, the 
original one was voted by the town to "be reserved for the town's use 
to build a skoole house and watch house." The public records prove 
that this building was removed to Washington street and was in the 
town's use till 1760, but the minutes of the town's doings from May, 
1760 to May, 1764, are lost, and from the first named date the history 
of the building is established by tradition. It appears probable that 
in the year 1760 the old building was disposed of and that Thorndike 
Proctor, who was at this time a conspicuous man in town affairs, 
selectman and moderator of town meetings, and Grand Juryman, 
bought the oldest part and re-erected it on his own land, back of what 
is now Boston street, where it was used as a tavern or a refreshment 
house. Here it slumbered undisturbed for a period of one hundred 
years, the tradition still clinging to it, through all its ignoble and de- 
grading experiences, that it was the "first church," when through 
the liberality and under the direct supervision of Francis Peabody it 
was taken down, in 1864, its authenticity established, and it was re- 
moved to its present location. The frame was carefully preserved, 
restored to its original mortises and placed within a good external 
covering. The building is twenty feet in length by seventeen in width 
and has one gallery, which originally was reached by a staircase. In 
this gallery sat the magnates. It was used for schools, town meetings, 
and military drills, as well as worship, and was called the Meeting 
House. Tablets give the names of the pastors and the number of 
years each one occupied the pulpit. Here, have also been placed on 
exhibition the following articles of historical interest : desk used by 
Hawthorne while at the custom house; a desk used by the eminent 




Peabody Academy of Science {rear). 

Peabody Academy of Science (^ast Hall). 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 87 

merchant, William Gray, in his counting room ; the desk which 
Nathaniel Bowditch used when engaged in translating La Place's 
Mechanique Celeste; a pew door from the meeting house of 
the First Church in Hingham ; an old settle ; the communion table 
of the East Church, Salem, used during the occupancy of their first 
house on the corner of Essex and Bentley streets; christening stand 
from church in Topsfield, 1700; child's seat used in a pew of the First 
Church, Salem ; pew seats made of rush ; photographs of the differ- 
ent First Church buildings, engravings, etc, 

Peabody Academy of Science (161 Essex St.).— The "Trustees of 
the Peabody Academy of Science"' organized and became incorpo- 
rated in 1868, having received funds by gift in 1867 from George Pea- 
body, of London, for the '* Promotion of Science and Useful Knowl- 
edge in the County of Essex." Under the instrument of trust, East 
India Marine Hall, erected in 1824, was purchased and refitted to con- 
tain the Museum of the East India Marine Society, begun in 1799, and 
the Natural History and Ethnological Collections of the Essex Insti- 
tute, begun in 1834, all of which were received by the trustees as per- 
manent deposits. To this foundation the trustees have added many 
valuable collections, and another exhibition hall has been built to ac- 
commodate this growth of the museum. 

The Sale7?i East India Marine Society was organized in 1799, its 
membership being confined to ^''persons who have actually navigated the 
seas beyond the Cape of Good Hope or Cape Horn^ as masters or super- 
cargoes of vessels belongi7ig to Salem.'''' Its objects were : — " First, to 
assist the widows and children of deceased members. . . . Second, to 
collect such facts and observations as tend to the improvement and 
security of navigation. . . . Third, to form a museum of natural and 
artificial curiosities, particularly such as are to be found beyond the 
Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn." The museum was begun in 
November, 1799, the first gift received being from Capt. Jonathan 
Carnes. It included several objects from Sumatra, which are still in 



88 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

the possession of the museum, and which, on account of the peculiar 
interest attached to them, are exhibited by themselves in the case con- 
taining the historical relics of the society. 

The museum was first arranged in the upper rooms of the Stearns 
Building, on the northeast corner of Essex and Washington streets, 
and afterwards in a hall especially prepared for its use in the old Bank 
Building which occupied the present site of Downing Block, a few 
doors above its present location. This was in 1804. It is an interest- 
ing fact that the rooms thus occupied for twenty years were later the 
home, successively, of the Athenaeum, the Historical and Natural 
History Societies and the Essex Institute. Between the years 1804 
and 1820 the collections gained rapidly, the museum became crowded, 
and in 1824 East India Marine Hall was built, the lower floor to be oc- 
cupied for business purposes, like the Asiatic Bank and the Oriental 
Insurance Office, the U. S. Post Office, while the large hall above was 
devoted to the museum and the meetings and banquets of the society. 
This hall was dedicated in 1825, John Quincy Adams, then President 
of the United States, delivering the opening address. During this 
period the accessions to the ethnological department of the museum 
from the South Sea Islands, China, India, Africa and South America, 
were numerous and valuable, while at the meetings of the society 
there came together, socially, the travelled merchants and master mar- 
iners of Salem ; elegant suppers were served on the great crescent- 
shaped table which formerly occupied the centre of the hall, and many 
distinguished guests were entertained. When the commerce of Salem 
declined, the membership of the society decreased, and it became im- 
possible properly to sustain the museum. During this latter period, 
also, the Essex Institute had accumulated a large and valuable collec- 
tion of specimens of natural history, which required much care and a 
large expenditure of money for their preservation and exhibition. 

In 1866 the attention of George Peabody of London, then visiting 
Salem, was called to the condition of the affairs of the two institutions, 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 89 

and in 1867 Mr. Peabody placed 1140,000.00 in the hands of several 
gentlemen whom he named, and who, under instructions, purchased 
East India Marine Hall, refitted it, and were incorporated in 1S68 as 
the Trustees of the Peabody Academy of Science, Francis Peabody of 
Salem, President of the Essex Institute, being chosen as the first 
president. The expenditures of purchasing East India Marine Hall 
and refitting it were met with 540,000 of the gift, $100,000 remaining by 
instruction of the donor as a fund, the income only to be expended in 
conducting the affairs of the institution. The museum of the East 
India Marine Society and the natural history and ethnological collec- 
tions of the Essex Institute having been deposited with the new Board 
of Trustees and arranged by them in the cabinets of the refitted hall, 
the work of the East India Marine Society, under the second and 
third clauses of ''The chief objects of the institution," closed.* The 
value and importance of the work of the society were acknowledged 
by students, in the reports of government officials, and were com- 
mented upon in autograph letters, now in the museum, from Presidents 
Jefferson and Madison, and the society printed, as early as 1821, a 
catalogue of its museum which was even then arranged as a scientific 
collection. 

Although the East India Marine Society no longer conducts investi- 
gations nor maintains a museum, its charitable work, the first of the 
fundamental objects at the time of its formation, is still continued,- 
the income from its considerable funds being annually distributed for 
the benefit of unfortunate members or their families. 

The Trustees of the Peabody Academy of Scie7ice 2.X& William C. Endi- 
cott, President; Abner C. Goodell, Jr., Secretary; John Robinson, 
Treasurer; S. Endicott Peabody, George Cogswell, Henry L. Higgin- 
son, Elihu Thompson. The officers are Edward S. Morse, Director; 



*Forafull account of the East India Marine Society, see Hurd, Hist. Essex Co., Vol. 
1, p. 175. 



90 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

John Robinson, Treasurer, in charge of the museum ; John H. Sears, 
Curator of Mineralogy and Geology. The offices are on the lower floor 
of East India Marine Hall, where all inquiries in regard to the col- 
lections and work of the Academy should be made and where letters 
should be addressed. (See circular of information, for free distribu- 
tion at th6 museum.) 

The Academy has published several scientific memoirs, besides 
annual reports containing much valuable matter in relation to natural 
history. A summer school of biology was sustained for six years and 
classes in botany and zoology have been conducted in the winter 
months. In 1885, the collections having outgrown their accommoda- 
tions, the trustees made a large addition to the building for the pur- 
pose of placing the invaluable ethnological objects in a fire-proof room. 
On the lower floor of this addition the space was utilized for a lecture 
room which was opened as "Academy Hall " on Feb. 12, 1886. Since 
the opening of this hall the trustees have established annual lecture 
courses the admission fee being nominal. Under this arrangement, 
seventy-two lectures upon subjects of natural history and ethnology 
have been delivered. The hall is also rented for lectures, concerts 
and readings. 

In October, 1889, the new east hall, on the second floor of the addi- 
tion, was completed by the trustees and opened to the public. The 
accommodations for the museum were thus nearly doubled and safety 
from fire secured for many valuable contributions. 

In 1893 the trustees received a bequest of two thousand dollars from 
the late Col. George Peabody of Salem. This was a welcome addition 
to the funds of the Academy for, with the greatly enlarged museum and 
increasing work, the present income is inadequate to accomplish much 
which the trustees desire to do, and every dollar added means some 
increase of public usefulness. 

The Museum of the Academy. As now arranged the collections of 
the Academy may be summarized as follows : — 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 9I 

1. A nearly complete collection of the animals, minerals and rocks 
of Essex County arranged in the cases at the northern end of the first 
hall. A collection of woods of the trees of Essex County and one of 
the prehistoric relics of the county in the gallery cases. A large collec- 
tion of the dried plants of the county in cabinets in the lower rooms, 
which may be consulted by students upon application at the office. 

2. A synoptical collection illustrating the animal kingdom from the 
lowest to the highest forms, arranged and labelled according to the 
text-books in common use in our schools and colleges. This collection 
is at the southern end of the hall excepting the insects, a portion of 
which are arranged in the rail cases in the gallery. Letters upon the 
cases indicate the order in which it should be examined. 

3. A small type collection of minerals illustrating the edition of 
Dana's Mineralogy, used in our schools, and one of fossils illustrating 
the historical geology of the earth, from the oldest to the most recent 
formations, arranged in the central gallery cases. Also a collection of 
botanical specimens in the western gallery. 

4. A collection, arranged by countries, of objects illustrating the 
every-day life, dress and religious customs, the implements of war and 
of domestic use, and objects of art of the native races of China, Korea, 
Siam, Malay Archipelago, Japan, India, Africa, Polynesia, North and 
South America, etc., arranged in the new east hall. 

5. An historical collection of portraits of prominent Salem mer- 
chants, members and officers of the East India Marine Society, to- 
gether with many interesting relics connected with the early social 
character of that institution, and models and pictures of Salem mer- 
chant vessels. These form an interesting memorial of the commercial 
history of Salem. No other port in the country has a better. 

As far as possible, all of the specimens in the museum are clearly 
marked with their names and the locality from which they were 
obtained, and cards, giving author's name, title and call number of 
books in the Salem Public Library, containing information pertaining 



92 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

to various portions of the collections, will be found appended to many 
of the objects in the cases, — a new and valuable addition. 

The arrangement of the museum is intended to be edncatiofial, and 
not merely for the jDurpose of exhibiting curiosities. It is especially 
designed as an aid in connection with school work, and the officers of 
the museum will gladly assist teachers and classes in the examination 
of the collections, if notified beforehand of intended visits. It is sug- 
gested that classes of twenty-five or less gain much more information 
than when the number is larger, and hence the desirability of visits by 
small classes. 

The museum is open free to the public every week-day from 9 o'clock 
A. M. to 5 p. M., and on Sundays from 2 to 5 p. m. The average num- 
ber of visitors has been over 45,000 annually during the last five years. 
On February 18,. 1895, the one hundredth anniversary of the birth of 
George Peabody, the founder of the Academy, on special invitation of 
the trustees, the teachers and pupils of the Salem schools visited the 
museum. 5538 visitors were recorded during the day. 

The officers of the Academy intend that the public shall receive 
every possible advantage contemplated in the instrument of trust, and 
they also ask all persons who are able to do so to aid them by contri- 
buting toward the increase and improvement of the collections which 
have almost wholly been received by gift. The publications of the 
Academy, the Visitor's Guide containing an historical sketch of the 
museum, etc., may be obtained of the constable in the hall, who will 
also direct visitors where any special collection sought for may be 
found. Those who desire information regarding the specimens, or in 
relation to scientific subjects, should inquire at the office or request 
the constable to call some officer of the Academy. 

Guide to the coUectioJis in t/ie Miiseuin of the Academy. Entering the 
door from Essex street the visitor passes through the long entry lead- 
ing to the stairway to the exhibition hall. Here are arranged some 
large casts of extinct animals, jaws of the sperm whale, and a number 



^.t 



s:.^^-^-^ 



imm 




Peabody Academy of Science {Natural History Collections)' 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 93 

of chama shells {Cliaina pgas), the largest of all bivalves, one pair of 
which was included in the first gift to the museum in 1799 by Capt. 
Jonathan Carnes. In the vestibule by the stairway is a beautifully 
designed terra-cotta tablet placed to the memory of the late Caleb 
Cooke, a former assistant and curator of the Academy, who was asso- 
ciated with the institution from its organization. Ascending the stairs 
the visitor will find himself in the older hall. At his left the entire 
southern portion of the room is filled by the general zoological collec- 
tions, while at his right, the northern portion is devoted to the natural 
history collections of Essex County. This is the largest and most 
complete collection to be found in any museum in the country from so 
limited an area.* 

The Essex County Collections. The formation of a collection illus- 
trating every species of the animals, plants and minerals of the coun- 
ty, as well as relics of its prehistoric inhabitants, was one of the first 
aims of the Essex County Natural History Society, the forerunner of 
the Essex Institute, and the labors in this direction have been contin- 
ued by the Institute, and later by the Academy for sixty years. 

Minerals and Rocks of Essex County. The first wall case at the right 
contains the minerals and rocks of the county. This collection has 
been brought together by John H. Sears, during the past six years, 
while engaged in a systematic survey of the county in behalf of the 
Academy. The collection includes more than thirteen hundred speci- 
mens of the mineral and rock formations. To illustrate their practical 
value in the arts and for building purposes one hundred specimens of 
the rocks are represented by polished specimens placed beside those 
of the same rock showing the natural cleavage. As far as possible the 
arrangement of the minerals follows Dana's Text-book of Mineralogy; 
that of the rocks, Geikie's Text-book of Geology. Each specimen is 
clearly labelled and photographs of geological formations, and, in some 

*E3sex County contains 520 square miles. Maps of the county and of Salem and its. 
neighborhood will be found in the hallway near the entrance. 



94 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 



instances, thin sections of the rocks prepared for microscopic study 
and enlarged prints from micro-photographs are placed upon the 
tablets. This collection contains specimens of rock formations and 
minerals of rare occurrence (see Chapter on Natural Objects of Inter- 
est), and will repay a careful examination. A geological map of 
Essex County giving all of the outcropping rocks, the work of Mr. 
John H. Sears, and published by the Essex Institute in 1894 is based 
on this collection and is the result of six years of constant labor in the 
field and laboratory. 

The Mammals of Essex County. The next case contains the mam- 
mals of the county, of which there are many rare and interesting 
specimens. These include two wild cats shot in the county in 1821 
and 1832, fine specimens of the fox, mink, otter, raccoon, porcupine, 
skunk, the mice, bat, the squirrels and hares, both the common gray 
and the rarer white species. A large number of albinos will be noticed 
in this collection. 

Directly over this case, suspended from the ceiling, is the skeleton of 
a "black-fish," which belongs to the family of whales. This particular 
specimen was obtained in 1873, having become stranded near Essex 
Bridge, between Salem and Beverly, where it was shot by the late 
Capt. Charles Osgood. 

The Birds of Essex County. Next in order are the county birds. 
This collection is very large and includes the resident species and a 
large number of very rare visitors. The collection of water birds 
obtained from interior ponds and along the seashore, and that of the 
birds of prey, are very full, and many of the specirnens exceedingly 
fine. The nests and eggs of resident speci-es are placed with the 
stuffed specimens of the birds wherever possible. Among the rarer 
birds are the razor-billed auk, harlequin and eider ducks, crested 
cormorant, American egret, marbled godwit, purple gallinule, king 
rail, long-billed curlew, 'golden eagle, swallow-tailed kite, turkey 
buzzard, great gray owl, American barn owl, Canada jay, evening 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 95 

grosbeak, Louisiana tanager, summer red bird, several rare warblers 
and interesting albinos of the American robin, barn swallow, black 
snow bird and ruffled grouse. The nests and eggs of the county birds 
are placed upon the floor of the case immediately beneath the species 
to which they belong and a yellow card with the bird indicates those 
whose nests and eggs are included in the collection. The names on 
the labels of the collection of birds, and as far as possible the arrange- 
ment of the species, follow the check list of The American Ornitholo- 
gists' Union. 

The Fishes and Reptiles of Essex County. The case on the western 
wall contains the fishes and reptiles of the county including sharks, the 
sturgeon, the tunny fish, angler, cod and a large number of smaller 
species, both from the seacoast and the ponds and rivers of the county. 
Among the reptiles are the rattlesnake and several other species of the 
family of serpents, the large pond turtle and, largest of all, the great 
leather back turtle, the specimen in the case having been taken in a 
fishing net at Rockport during the summer of 1885. 

The Invertebrates of Essex County. Opposite to the fishes are 
the lower forms of animals, chiefly obtained in the ocean and along 
the shore ; the sponges, one grown on a pier of Essex Bridge, the sea- 
urchins, star-fish, marine worms and shells of the seashore and land 
mollusks. The Crustacea follow these in order and include one lobster 
which when taken weighed twenty-five pounds. A lobster is also 
shown in the process of moulting as well as the discarded shell, and 
some of the so-called "blue lobsters" will be found in this case, 
as well as a remarkable assortment of mal-formed lobster claws. 
There are good specimens of the " soft shelled " crab and several of 
the sea crabs. Beyond are some beautiful nests of the paper-making 
wasp, one of which is built around a box previously occupied by the 
English sparrow.* The Margarette Brooks collection of Essex County 

*Suspencled from the ceilino- above this case are the jaw bones of the sperm and right 
■whales. The former was brought from the South Seas and was taken from an animal es- 
timated to be over eighty feet long; the latter was taken from a dead whale which 
was washed ashore on'Baker's Island in Salem harbor. 



96 visitor's guide to salem. 

lepidoptera is arranged in this section, while the other insects of the 
county will be found among the specimens in the general collection in 
the rail cases of the central gallery. 

The Essex County Botanical Collections. In the gallery, directly 
over the case containing the fishes, is the collection of woods and 
fruits of the trees and shrubs of the county. The specimens are as 
large as the limits of the cases will permit. All of the native trees are 
represented and a large number of extensively introduced species, and 
one case contains the specimens of county woods which received the 
United States government tests for strength, fuel value, etc. A full 
report of these tests will be found in the ninth volume of the reports 
of the tenth census of the United States. 

. The collection is illustrated by the plates from Emerson's "Trees 
and Shrubs of Massachusetts," Dame and Brooks' "Typical Elms and 
Other Trees," and from other sources. The labels follow Gray's 
Manual of Botany, the sixth edition. The dried plants are kept in the 
class room where, also, such botanical books as may be required are to 
be found and microscopes for special examinations. The plants of 
Essex County are mounted on upwards of four thousand sheets of 
paper and are arranged in cabinets. The flowering plants, including 
the sedges and grasses, and the ferns and the algai are represented by 
copious specimens. Such foreign plants as may be of service for 
general study are preserved, but no attempt is made to form a large 
collection outside of the county species. There are, however, good 
collections of the grasses of North America, mosses of Europe, ferns 
and sea-weeds. These collections may be examined by calling upon 
any officer of the museum. 

The Pre-historic Relics of Essex County. The pre-historic relics of 
the county will be found in the gallery directly over the collection of 
minerals and rocks. This collection is very large and is worthy of a 
very careful examination. Among the surface finds, the axes, gouges, 
knives, and spear and arrow points are especially fine. The objects 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC, 97 

from graves and shell-heaps are not only numerous but of great rarity. 
Many mounted stone implements, from the later stone age of Alaska 
and elsewhere, are placed in this section, to show the mode of mount- 
ing the pre-historic relics. And the rocks of Essex County, from which 
the implements found were undoubtedly made, are shown in one case 
together with implements made from each variety. One case contains 
illustrations of arrow point making and another a collection of frauds 
and natural stones likely to deceive the relic hunter. All of the speci- 
mens are fully explained by the labels. At the foot of the stairs from 
the gallery is a large stone mortar found at an Indian village site near 
the Ipswich river in Middleton. It weighs 1022 pounds and is too 
large to be placed with the other objects in the gallery cases. These 
pre-historic relics are no doubt the work of the tribes of Algonquin 
Indians which inhabited this region, or, in rare instances were 
obtained by them from more distant tribes in warfare or by barter, before 
the coming of the white man as a permanent resident to these shores. 
But many of the specimens found in graves, associated with undoubted 
Indian skeletons, such as beads of European make, brass trinkets and 
copper cooking pots clearly indicate the connection with European 
voyagers. These objects were undoubtedly obtained during the 
sixteenth and early portions of the seventeenth centuries and are, 
therefore, about 250 to 350 years old. Many of the objects of purely 
native workmanship may be much older and some may have been the 
work of a race of people which occupied the land before the advent of 
the red Indian. This older race is supposed by some writers to have 
been the stock from which the present Eskimo have descended and 
that they were driven northv/ard by the more aggressive red Indians 
who advanced from the south and west. 

The General Zoological Colleciions. Directly opposite to the main 
entrance of the hall is a case containing a fine specimen (male) of the 
now rare American bison which was received during the summer of 
1887 from the Smithsonian Institution. It was captured by a special 



98 visitor's guide to salem. 

expedition, at Porcupine Creek, Montana. Passing to the left, just 
beyond the case containing the bison, to the wall case are the general 
zoological collections. Beginning with the lowest infusorial forms, by 
passing along the line of cases, as indicated by the letters of the 
alphabet on the doors of the sections, the visitor will follow out in a 
gradual rising order the arrangement of the collection, ending with 
the highest form, represented by the human skeletons. This collec- 
tion illustrates the animal kingdom in synopsis. It is not intended to 
show the different species, but to instruct visitors by means of type 
specimens in the methods of classification by the natural system. The 
collection is designed to be of especial service to students and 
teachers of zoology. Many of the groups are illustrated by outline 
drawings and glass models of perishable specimens. The most strik- 
ing features of the collection may be briefly mentioned : a very fine 
collection of corals, particularly rich in East Indian species and fan 
corals ; a collection of mollusks, the largest portion of which for want 
of exhibition space, is kept in cases in the lower room, only accessible 
to students ; an excellent collection of snakes and turtles ; a good rep- 
resentation of the families of birds; a collection of marsupials, from 
Australia; and a collection of mammals, including stuffed specimens, 
skeletons and skulls of the principal orders. The larger part of these 
specimens were received from the Essex Institute in 1867. 

School Collections of Minerals and Rocks. There are in the central 
gallery cases an educational collection of minerals and one of 
the rocks illustrating Historic Geology, for the use of teachers and 
students of mineralogy and geology. The collections include some 
twelve hundred specimens from all parts of the world and are arranged 
and labelled according to the editions of Dana's Mineralogy and 
Dana's Manual of Geology used in the schools of Essex County. 
These collections are much consulted and have proved valuable aids 
in school work. 

Animal Locomotion. The Academy received, through the Essex In- 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC rNSTITUTIONS, ETC. 99 

stitute, thirty plates illustrating animal locomotion. These plates 
were selected from the well-known Muybridge collection and, besides 
the movement of man, illustrate movements of species of nearly all the 
important orders of mammals and birds. Each plate contains from 
twelve to twenty-four instantaneous, successive views of the subject 
making one complete movement and, together, are very interesting 
and instructive. 

General Archceological Collections. The collection of pre-his- 
toric relics from regions outside of Essex County will be found in the 
rail case on the eastern gallery. Among these are the original pal- 
eolithic implements found by Dr. C. C. Abbott in the drift gravel in 
New Jersey, and, also, the collection of surface relics from the same 
region which are described by that author in his works entitled " The 
Stone Age in New Jersey" and "Primitive Industry," and many inter- 
esting relics of early man from the south-western United States and 
from California. The objects from ancient Egypt and those from 
Europe are arranged in this gallery. 

Botanical Collections. The gallery case on the western side of the 
hall contains a botanical collection arranged in natural order and con- 
taining many fine specimens from foreign lands. Many beautiful 
plates of the trees of Massachusetts are found in the section beyond. 
In one case is a coil of a species of rattan two hundred feet in 
length and on the southern wall hang several very long bamboo poles 
from three to six inches in diameter. Between the windows are 
placed selections from the beautiful Dodel-Port Botanical Charts 
given to the museum by Mrs. M. N. P. Hawken. 

The East Hall: Ethnological Collections. At the southeast corner 
of the old hall is the entrance to the new " East Hall '' which was de- 
signed to contain the ethnological collections of the Academy. It was 
opened to the public October 20, 1889. These collections were begun 
by the East India Marine Society in 1799, and include many valuable 
objects obtained during the succeeding half century by the members 



lOO VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

of that organization, to which the objects received from the Essex 
Institute in 1867 made an important addition. Since that date, these 
collections have been more than doubled by the trustees of the Acad- 
emy who have endeavored to obtain specimens which should complete 
the series and thus as far as possible represent the life, handiwork and 
arts of the native races of every portion of the world. The name of 
the country represented will be seen upon large tablets over each 
case and each object is, in addition, clearly marked with the name and 
locality from which it was obtained. 

India. Entering the East Hall, at the right, is the collection from 
India. In the first case is a group of life-size clay figures of Indian 
merchants with whom the merchants of Salem had commercial rela- 
tions in the early part of the century. There are, besides, in this 
case, figures of clerks, priests, mendicants, a snake charmer and a 
life-sized figure of "Nasavangee," a Bombay "Parsee" merchant. 
The adjoining case contains smaller figures, from eight to twelve 
inches high, illustrating types of the men and women of the different 
castes and occupations as seen in the streets of Calcutta. All of the 
larger figures are accurate likenesses of the persons they represent. 
These cases also contain specimens illustrating the manufactures of 
India and numerous articles of domestic use, conspicuous among 
which are many elegant " Hookahs " together with the " bubble 
bubbles " or water pipes used by the lower classes, and the 
"chebooks," several of which have stems six feet in length. 
Near the first case is a carved wooden column from Burmah, a 
religious monument made in honor of the dead. An excellent collec- 
tion of idols and emblems of the native faiths will be found in the 
second case and, in the centre of the hall, beneath the trophy of the 
models of vessels, is a palanquin, formerly a common vehicle of 
travel in India, borne on the shoulders of four bearers, which w^as pur- 
chased in Calcutta, in 1803, by several Salem merchant captains who 
chanced to meet there, and who sent it home as a gift to the East India 



LIBRARIES, SCIENriFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. lOI 

Marine Society. In the famous floral processions of former years, 
this palanquin, filled with children, was a conspicuous and favorite 
feature. 

Africa and Arabia. In the second and third cases are the objects 
from Arabia and Africa, including Arabian and Algerian rifles and 
bridles of beautiful workmanship. One long rifle with an inlaid stock 
was the gift of Col. Timothy Pickering. Many of the knives and 
spears in this and the African collections are important as illustrating 
a distinctive character of these people. Among the African objects 
the " tomtoms " or drums, carved from a soft wood, at once attract 
attention ; with these is a most remarkable fetish, the gift of T. C. W. 
Nash. Some of the most interesting objects will be found in the sec- 
tion devoted to the sacrificial knives, charms, spears, bows and arrows 
of the wonderful dwarf race, etc., from the upper Congo, collected by 
E. J. Glave, an assistant of Stanley, while on the great expedition 
^' through darkest Africa." These are the gift of the president of the 
Peabody Academy, Hon. Wm. C. Endicott, and have recently been 
added to the collection. There are many "gre-grees " or charms used 
by native priests, and fine mats, native cloth, and carved wooden 
seats made from a single block of wood. Models of " dhows " from 
Africa will be found among the vessels on the frame in the centre of 
the hall and, also, a curious model made by the natives of the w^est 
coast of Africa, illustrating their conception of an American vessel. 

Polynesia. One of the most valuable collections in the museum is 
undoubtedly that from the South Sea Islands- Begun before civilization 
had reached these far-off regions, the specimens are free from the 
effect of European contact and their genuineness is assured. The 
implements of war and domestic use, and the primitive fishing hooks 
and lines, are now nearly everywhere replaced by those of European 
make and, in some cases, the people who made many of these objects 
have as tribes become extinct. This collection is rich in long war 
clubs, hand clubs, carved and ornamented batons, spears, paddles, 



102 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

adzes, etc. A fine assortment of fishing hooks, lines and spears, and 
another of plain and extensivel}'- ornamented and printed cloths and 
braided tunics are shown, besides many unique head ornaments, 
wigs, necklaces, bracelets of pearl, shell, ivory and hair. There 
are a large number of fans, models of temples and boats, carved 
ornaments for canoes, carved boxes and several fine specimens 
of the "kava" bowls which were used to hold the fermented 
drinks made by the natives of Tahiti, Fiji and other of the South Sea 
Islands. On the floor, at the northern end of the hall, stands the 
Hawaiian god of medicine " Koila Moku," which for many years was 
erected on a tall post upon a plain, on the island of Hawaii, surrounded 
by the bones of those who had dragged themselves into his hideous 
presence, to die chanting prayers for relief. Among the objects from 
the section devoted to Micronesia are the curious spears and swords 
mounted with sharks' teeth from the Gilbert Islands and the suits of 
fibre armor worn by the natives to protect themselves from these cruel 
implements of war. Some fine Australian boomerangs are also shown 
and the narrow shields used in warding them off when thrown against 
the person. The Australian clubs and those from the Marquesas 
Islands are of great rarity and there are, also, models of vessels from 
Fiji, New Zealand and other places, showing the use of the " out- 
rigger." The stone implements in this collection mounted in wooden 
handles bring us directly in contact with the stone age of these peo- 
ple, and they serve well to illustrate the manner in which similar stone 
objects, now found among the pre-historic relics of our own region 
may have been mounted for use. The interesting series of objects 
from New Guinea in this portion of the collection has been recently 
obtained for the museum. 

North America. The visitor will now have passed to the eastern 
side of the hall and will find in the next section the objects originating 
with the races of Eskimo and Indians of North America. A large 
part of the objects of this group were received within a few^ years from 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. I03 

the Smithsonian Institution at Washington. The absence of objects 
from North America in the early period of the museum is not remark- 
able when it is considered that Salem merchants were trading with 
almost every foreign country, while few travelled in their own ; nor, 
were objects of native American workmanship thought to be of sufft- 
cient interest to ensure their preservation. As now arranged, the 
North American collection exhibits models of Eskimo boats, cloth- 
ing, bows and arrows, implements used in the capture of the seal 
and those relating to domestic life. The central and southern Indians 
are represented by costumes, bows and arrows, belts, knives, basket 
work and veritable scalps, one of the latter evidently having been 
taken from an unfortunate white woman. Some of the most interest- 
ing objects of this collection are the effectively decorated pottery 
vessels of the Zuni and Moqui tribes, many of which are quite large. 
Other objects relating to the domestic and religious life of these peo- 
ple will be seen in the collection and will repay a careful examination. 
A full sized "Kayak" used by the Eskimo in capturing the seal and 
for other aquatic purposes, and a canoe of Indian workmanship from 
Nova Scotia, made from a single piece of birch bark, and in possession 
of the museum for seventy years, will be found on the frame of models 
of vessels in the centre of the hall. The collection of implements and 
other objects of stone, bone and clay, illustrating the stone age in 
North America, as previously stated, is arranged in a rail case in the 
eastern gallery of the old hall. 

Mexico. Mexico is represented by clothing, saddles, casts of idols, 
etc., and a collection of beautifully executed figures of native work- 
manship, illustrating the trades and customs of the native people. 

South America. The most characteristic objects in this collection 
are the feather-work caps, head-dresses and feather trimming from 
Brazil, which includes a beautifully woven hammock with the Brazilian 
coat of arms at the sides worked in feathers, and the models of " cata- 
marans " or native rafts. The vases, jars and bottles from the ancient 



I04 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

graves of Peru, in the last case, are of great antiquity and show infinite 
variety of form. There are several twin whistling jars in the collec- 
tion ; by blowing in the mouth of one jar a shrill whistle is produced 
in its mate. The most interesting and valuable contribution of jars, 
implements, clothing, ornaments, models, and the like from Bolivia, a 
recent addition to the museum and filling an entire section, was 
collected and presented by T. Q. Brown, Jr., of Boston. 

Japan. Passing to the gallery of the East Hall, at the left, on the 
western side, are arranged the objects from Japan. This collection 
was largely formed by the director. Prof. E. S. Morse, during his last 
visit to Japan, in 1882, a portion however, being received in exchange 
for specimens from the Educational Museum at Tokio. There are 
sets of tools of trade workers and artisans, besides a large number of 
objects illustrating almost every department of Japanese ethnology. 
Since this date the collection has been largely augmented by donations 
from Mr. J. F. Almy, Mr. Tejima, Mr. Yamada, Mr. W. G. Webb, Mr. 
Matsuki, from the private collection of the director Mr. Morse, and 
particularly from Dr. Charles G. Weld, who contributed a large and 
valuable collection of objects obtained by him in Japan some years 
since. The objects in the collection are classified in accordance with 
the s3'Stem adopted by the Leipsic Ethnological Museum, this arrange- 
ment being followed, as far as possible, in the other ethnological 
collections of the Academy. In the first section are the life size fig- 
ures illustrating the Samurai and the peasant classes of society and the 
warrior in full suit of armor of the period previous to the restoration of 
the Mikado. These figures are very beautifully made and costumed- 
The Samurai family consists of a gentleman and his wife with their 
girl and boy; the peasant family of a farmer and wife, the latter carry- 
ing upon her back tHeir infant. The warrior is clothed in a gorgeous 
suit of armor, and wears upon his head a helmet surmounted by a 
lofty set of carved antlers. These are followed by a collection of up- 
wards of thirty varieties of swords, many of very beautiful workman- 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. I05 

ship and of great age, and collections of sword hilts and small knives. 
Farther on are military hats, bows, arrows, war pikes, spears and 
officers' battle signals. A Japanese clock which indicates hours by the 
falling weight is also seen in the first section. In the second section 
are to be found many interesting and valuable objects from Japanese 
temples, household shrines, charms, seated figures of Buddha, and a 
carrying shrine used in processions. In the fourth section are a col- 
lection of shoes, some beautiful illustrations of lacquered ware and 
dresses. In the table case at the southern end of the gallery are many 
small objects illustrating the pottery, lacquer work, and other indus- 
tries and customs of the Japanese, besides some very curious carvings 
and other objects from the Ainos of Yesso. The collection of tools in 
the second case is very complete and includes those of the carpenter, 
ivory carver, lantern maker, lacquerer, stone cutter, ribbon maker, and 
implements of the fisherman, the models of a silk loom, etc. The col- 
lection of clothing is quite full, and that illustrating the household, be- 
sides pretty models of the kitchen and tea room, contains nearly all 
the articles of daily domestic use fitly represented. Among the musi- 
cal instruments are several of beautiful design and rare workmanship. 
There are also beautiful models of Japanese "junks," a " jinrikisha," 
and carrying chairs and bearers. One of the stone lanterns used for 
decorations of gardens and temple grounds and a real jinrikisha will 
be found in the centre of the lower floor. The Japanese objects pre- 
viously possessed by the museum, although few in number, included 
several trays, cups and tea pots brought from Nagasaki in 1S02, by 
Captain Samuel G. Derby, in the ship "Margaret," which were prob- 
ably the first Japanese articles ever brought directly to this country.* 
This old collection, together with the recent additions, makes an ex- 
hibit in the department of Japanese ethnology unequalled in this 



*A picture of the ship Margaret will be found on th3 north wall, lower floor, of the East 
Hall, and references to accounts of this voyage to Japan. 



I06 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

country, and probably not excelled in many foreign museums. It 
should be borne in mind that this collection represents old Japan, and 
it is the more valuable and interesting for the fact that the Japan of 
to-day stands abreast of the most advanced nations in development 
along the lines of modern civilization, as her wonderful work in the 
war in Korea and China has demonstrated. In matters of education 
and in the introduction of railways, telegraphs, and all the applications 
of electricity, Japan of to-day is well in the front. 

Korea. Passing to the eastern gallery of the hall, the first section 
contains the objects from Korea. The larger part of this collection 
was gathered for the museum in 1883 by Count Von Mollendorif, who 
was at that time at Seoul, the capital of Korea, in the service of the 
German government. Additions have since been received by gift 
from Percival Lowell, and Yu Kil Chun, a native of Korea, for some 
time a student at Salem, and a number of musical instruments and an 
ancient, single-wheeled official chair (seen in the centre of the hall) 
were obtained from the Korean exhibit at the World's ("olumbian Ex- 
position at Chicago. The collection includes dresses, ornaments, 
weapons, articles of domestic use, pottery, porcelain, etc. The brass 
utensils are peculiar to this country and should be carefully examined. 

Malaysia and other Islands. Next in order are the collections from 
the regions of the Malay Archipelago and beyond to the continent. 
The most remarkable objects are the numerous bronze figures of un- 
known origin found in a ruined temple in Java. They illustrate a 
variety of subjects and, as they include figures evidently intended for 
Dutch soldiers, they are probably about 200 years old, although some 
of the figures may be much older. Among the objects from Anam is a 
curious charm hung up in houses as a protection against "the devil" 
and a bow used to discharge balls of fire into the air for a similar pur- 
pose. Here also are many beautiful specimens of the Malay creises 
and cutlasses, one of the latter being a gift to Captain Endicott, of 
Salem, from the Rajah Po Adam, by whom Captain Endicott was be- 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. I07 

friended when his vessel, the " Friendship," was captured by natives 
on the Sumatra coast in 1S31. As creises are now made in England in 
imitation of those of native workmanship and are sold to the Malays 
by traders, this collection of early native creises is of great interest as 
genuine objects of Malayan art. The most recent addition to this 
group are the objects collected by E. C. Lane, at the Philippine Islands 
many years since. This includes several curiously formed shields, 
very long swords and creises, and three of the singular, axe-like 
weapons of the head-hunters of Borneo and neighboring regions. 

Siam. Within a year, a collection of objects has been received from 
Siam. This includes a fine series of musical instruments, tools, cloth- 
ing, ornaments, toys, household utensils, sacred books, idols, etc. 
This well chosen collection was obtained through the Rev. A. L. 
Eaton, formerly of Salem but later a missionary in the East. 

C/ii?ia. The remaining sections of the cases in the eastern gallery 
are devoted to the objects from China, one of the first countries to be 
represented in the old museum. One section contains two life-size 
models of Chinese men dressed in complete suits of native clothing, 
although the heads and hands of the figures were carved by the noted 
Salem carvers, Macintire and True. In one section are idols, 
models of tombs and pagodas cut from a red soapstone. In one large 
gilded idol of wood, taken from a fort on the Canton river, w^as se- 
creted a silver charm of which there is an interesting translation. The 
collection of musical instruments and of implements of war, including 
the huge Tartar bow are particularly fine. The visitor should notice 
the specimens of carved ivory spheres, which, in one instance, to the 
number of twenty, are cut to revolve one within another, the chairs and 
toys, the articles of food and the boats, of which there are many ex- 
cellent models, including one of the "Junk '' sofamiliar in all accounts 
of China. Of special interest is an opium set contributed by the late 
Mr. William Dolan of Hong Kong, including the pipe, tools for hand- 
ling the opium, lamp and cushion to recline upon. There are also a 



I08 visitor's guide to SALEIM. 

loom for making straw matting; a collection illustrating the native 
materia medica of China, including some 200 different specimens, not 
all of which are on exhibition, and a collection illustrating Chinese 
dentistry and one of models from life of compressed feet of the Chinese 
ladies contributed by Dr. George O. Rogers. A large Chinese lan- 
tern will be seen suspended from the ceiling at the southern end of 
the hall and two curious Chinese cannon will be found in the centre 
of the hall, beneath the trophy of models of vessels, one of which is 
mounted on a truck and frame of camphor wood. Two large pottery 
tanks near these, also from China, illustrate the great size of which it 
is possible to make objects in clay. 

Models and paintings of Vessels. In the centre of the floor of the 
East Hall, in addition to the large objects previously referred to, are 
several full-rigged models of vessels of much interest. These are pre- 
served, together with a large number of the models of the hulls and 
numerous paintings of Salem vessels arranged on the southern wall 
beneath the gallery, as memorials of the early commercial history of 
Salem, an appropriate reminder of the work of the East India Marine 
Society with whose members nearly every vessel represented may be 
associated. This collection contains full-rigged models of the ship 
Friendship built in 17S6, the brig Camel, captured from the British 
during the war of 1812, the United States frigates Constitution and 
Ohio, from the former of which models a national salute was fired, at 
the dinner in Hamilton Hall, given in 1813 by the Light Infantry to 
her gallant commander Commodore Bainbridge ; the model was evi- 
dently damaged by this performance for a receipted bill now in pos- 
session of the museum shows that a year later it was repaired by 
" British prisioners of War " then held in Salem, — a bit of kind hearted 
irony on the part of the old Salem sea dogs who then conducted the 
museum. In addition are models of the brig Rising States, owned by 
William Gray in 1802, an American ship of 1840, old and modern fish- 
ing schooners, a brigantine, the^ first pilot boat and modern sloop 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. IO9 

yachts. There are also a model showing the temporary rudder con- 
structed on the ship Ulysses, by means of which the vessel was saved 
after losing its original rudder in a terrific gale and hull models of the 
ships Delphos, first and second Sooloo, Australia, Siren, Shirley, Eu- 
ropa, Malay, Sumatra, Panay, Thomas Perkins and St. Clair; brigs 
Romp, M. Shepard and Persia; barks Cynthia, La Plata and Delight; 
schooner Dictator ; yacht America, etc. There are pictures, oil paintings 
and w^ater colors, of the ships Prudent, Eliza Ann, Margaret, Mount 
Vernon, third America, privateer America, Tartar, Tybee, Bombay, 
Grocius, Sooloo, Friendship, Siam, Australia, Henry Tuke, Propontis, 
Hazard, George, Malay, Derby, Highlander, Sumatra, Shir- 
ley, Panay, Witch of the Wave and John Bertram ; barks Eliza, Edward 
Koppisch, Chalcedony and William Schroder; brigs Nereus, Centu- 
rion, Olinda, Zaine, and Acorn; topsail schooner Plato; all of Salem 
and the celebrated frigate Essex built by Enos Briggs in 1799 ^^^ ^he 
merchants of Salem, and by them presented to the U. S. navy. 

Many of the vessels in these lists have famous histories and a large 
number of them are of early date, including several which made the 
first voyages of any American vessels to ports in India, China, Suma- 
tra and other distant countries. There are besides photographs of 
antique vessels from models and of modern war vessels, yachts, etc., 
placed here to illustrate the development of naval architecture. 

Portraits. The collection of portraits includes many of the leading 
Salem merchants in the days of Salem's commercial period and mem- 
bers of the East India Marine Society, a full list of these will be found 
in another chapter of this Guide (see list of portraits). The portraits 
are arranged on the northern and southern walls of the East Hall and 
all have descriptive labels placed upon them. 

Relics of the East India Marine Society. In the cases on the 
northern end of the gallery of the East Hall are preserved the relics of 
the early history of the East India Marine Society. The case in the 
centre contains the punch bowls, and the large soup tureens made in the 



no VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

form of swans, used at the banquets of the society. One of the punch 
bowls was made in Canton, China, in 1786, to celebrate the first voyage 
of a Salem ship, the " Grand Turk," to that port, a representation of 
the vessel being in the centre of the bowl and others on the outside. 
Two other bowls, of Liverpool ware, were presented to the society in 
1800 by its first president Benjamin Hodges. There are, also, the and- 
irons in the form of Hessian soldiers used in the fireplaces of the hall 
occupied by the society in 1804 and, suspended from the ceiling, are 
tw^o glass chandeliers, probably of Venetian make of the same period, 
the gift to the society of one of its presidents, PJenjamin Carpenter. 
At the left is a mantle piece and two fire boards with views of Canton 
and Cape Town, taken from the old hall, the roll of members on parch- 
ment and other relics. In one of the table cases are the early manu- 
script catalogues of the museum, the visitors' books, old sea journals 
and autograph letters from Presidents Jefl:"erson and Madison, com- 
mending the work of the society. Above these are hung a series of 
historical pictures, showing the exterior and interior views, where 
possible, of the buildings occupied by the East India Marine Society 
and the Peabody Academy of Science from the date of the formation 
of the former society in 1799 to the present time. In the central case 
is the remarkable carving in boxwood representing "Heaven and the 
Day of Judgment." This carving is but 2i inches in diameter; the 
two subjects being represented in separate hemispheres. There are, 
however, in this little sphere, in all, one hundred and ten figures 
carved with such skill that they bear the closest scrutiny even with the 
aid of a powerful magnifying glass. The whole may be closed and 
placed in a leather cover. This curious object is supposed to have 
been the work of a monk during the fourteenth century and was pre- 
sented to the society by the Hon. Elias Hasket Derby, who received 
it from a gentleman of WestphaUa visiting this country in the early 
part of the present century. Near the central case, in one of the table 
cases, are still preserved several objects from Sumatra previously re- 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. Ill 

ferred to, and which were presented to the society upon its organiza- 
tion in 1799 by Captain Jonathan Carnes. These objects may be said 
to have formed the nucleus oi the museum. 

On the western wall of the first hall, and best seen from the oppo- 
site gallery, is a three-fourths length portrait of George Peabody of 
London by A. Bertram Schell. It was given to the Academy in 1895 
by Mrs. G. H. Lyman of Boston, the daughter of the late Samuel T. 
Dana Esq., one of the trustees of the Peabody Educational Fund, to 
whom the portrait was originally given by Mr. Peabody. A small 
bronze bas-relief of Mr. Peabody hangs beside it. He was born in 
South Danvers, now Peabody, Feb. 18, 1795, ^^^ his benefactions are 
too well known to be called for mention here. That gift which led to 
the establishment of the present Board of Trustees of the Peabody 
Academy of Science was made in 1867. It enabled the work inaugu- 
rated by the East India Marine Society and the Essex Institute in nat- 
ural history and ethnology to be continued and further developed 
and insured the permanent establishment of a free museum for the 
instruction and rational amusement of the people of Essex County. 

CuviER Natural History Society. Organized March 5, 1881. 
Meetings are held on the second Saturday of each month, at 7.45 P. 
M. in their club house, rear of 265 Lafayette street. Louis F. Gavet, 
president ; Harry C. Low, secretary. 

American Association for the advancement of Science. Its 
office is in the building on Central street, designed by Charles Bul- 
finch, and occupied by the association of Master Builders and by the 
Mercantile National Bank. The society has a valuable scientific li- 
brary. In addition to the libraries here mentioned many of the differ- 
ent charitable and secret order societies have well selected libraries, 
the circulation of which is confined to the members of these organiza- 
tions. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Charities. 

THE Charities of Salem though not housed in a way to attract 
the visitor by any display of architectural splendor are all of 
them in a sound financial condition and conducted in such a conserv- 
ative manner as to obtain the best results. 

Associated Charities. — This organization has an office at the 
Fraternity Rooms, No. 175 Essex street. It was formed for the pur- 
pose of "giving relief to the worthy poor, prevent begging and im- 
posture and diminishing pauperism." While it is entirely independent 
of the other charitable societies of Salem, it works in harmony and 
cooperation with all A " Fresh Air Fund," conducted by this organ- 
ization, enables elderly and tired women and sickly children to obtain 
rest and relief. The registrar will be found at the office every week 
day from 9.30 to i and 3 to 5. 

Salem Marine Society: Franklin Building.— A large brick block 
on the corner of Essex street and Washington square, is owned by the 
Silem Marine Society, the oldest charitable organization in the city. 
The society was formed in 1776 "to relieve such of their Members as 
through Misfortune at Sea, or otherwise, or by Reason of Old Age or 
Sickness stand in Need of Relief, & the necessitous Families of de- 
ceased Members ; and also to communicate in Writing, to be lodged 
with the Society, the Observations they make at Sea of any Matters 
w^ich may render Navigation, particularly on this Coast, easier and 
safer." It came into possession of this estate by the bequest of Capt. 
Thomas Perkins, a member of the society, about 1833. The building 
(112) 



CHARITIES. 113 

was twice damaged by fire, and totally destroyed in i860, but im- 
mediately rebuilt. The lower story is used for stores. The upper 
stories are occupied by the Father Mathew Temperance Society and 
the armory of the Salem Light Infantry. The Marine Society occupies 
the lower room on the corner of Washington square as a reading room 
for its members now numbering about fifty. This society conducts 
the Seamen's Bethel at the foot of Turner street, number 58, which 
was built and is supported by funds bequeathed by Capt. Henry Barr. 
It was at the instance of this society that government light-houses 
were first established on Baker's Island in 1798. They had maintained 
a light house of their own there for years. 

East India Marine Society (which see under Peabody Academy 
of Science). 

SalExM Hospital. — This institution, 31 Charter street, near the foot 
of Liberty, was founded in 1873 through the liberality of Capt. John 
Bertram and other citizens. The hospital is a large brick building, 
formerly a private residence, which was refitted for its present uses, 
with wards for special purposes in separate buildings on the same 
estate which extends to Liberty street. Visitors are admitted on Wed- 
nesdays from 2 to 5 p. M. Applications for admission of patients can 
be made to the superintendent daily from 11 to 12.30 o'clock. A suc- 
cessful training school for nurses is connected with the hospital. 

Old Ladies' Home. Association for the Relief of Aged and 
Indigent WOxMen.— A house, 180 Derby street, between Orange and 
Curtis streets, built by Benjamin W. Crowninshield, a member of Con- 
gress and secretary of the navy under Madison, is now occupied by 
the Association for the Relief of Aged and Indigent Women. Presi- 
dent Monroe was the guest of Mr. Crowninshield in this house, July 8, 
9, 10, II, 1817; -and on the 9th a great dinner was given in .the south- 
eastern room, at which were present, Commodores Bainbridge and 
Perry, Generals Miller and Dearborn, Senator Silsbee, Lieut. Governor 
William Gray, Judge Story and others. The eastern half was after- 



114 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEiM. 

wards the residence, from 1825 to 1849, of Gen. James Miller, the hero 
of Lundy's Lane, whose famous words " I'll try Sir " were after " Fort 
Erie" stamped by order of government on the buttons of his regiment. 
The house was given for its present use in i860, by the late Robert 
Brookhouse, a successful merchant in the African trade, and the home 
is supported by the income of funds contributed by citizens and 
augmented by several legacies. It may be visited on Wednesday 
and Saturday afternoons. 

Old Men's Home. — This institution, incorporated as the Bertram 
Home for Aged Men, is located in another stately old mansion house 
at 114 Derby street, and was founded in 1877, by Capt. John Bertram. 
It is a cheerful and pleasant home. It may be visited on any week day. 

Woman's Friend Society. — This excellent institution was organ- 
ized in a modest way in 1876, but was not incorporated until 1884. A 
reading room for girls was first established in the Maynes' block and 
later a home for girls at the corner of Essex and Daniels streets. An 
employment bureau was also established about the same time. In 
1879, Capt. John Bertram placed the north side of the fine old house 
now occupied by the society, number 12 Elm street, at the disposal of 
the managers for five years, to be given to the society at the end of 
that time if the work undertaken should succeed, and in 1884, the 
promise of Capt. Bertram was fulfilled, the success of the experiment 
having been proved, and the house became the jDroperty of the society. 
In 1889, through the generosity of friends, the duplicate of the house 
in the same block, numbered 14, was purchased and connected with it 
by cutting doorways through the partition wall and the accommoda- 
tions of the society were thus doubled. The society now conducts the 
following work : — A home for girls who are given good rooms and 
board at.reasonable terms; an intelligence office, a needlework depart- 
ment ; a free cooking school for the children of the public schools. 
The institution depends for its support upon the contributions of 
charitably-inclined persons. 



CHARITIES. 



115 



By means of special funds, the society now employs a trained nurse, 
known as the ''Visiting Nurse,'' whose duty is to make daily visits of 
about an hour each upon poor persons who may be sick in their 
homes, to make them comfortable, and to instruct whoever may have 
charge of them as to care and proper food. Any unoccupied time of 
the nurse may be given to persons requiring temporary assistance who 
can pay for such services. Money thus received will be devoted to 
the further assistance of the poor patients. A "loan closet " with the 
usual hospital supplies, including bed clothing, etc., is conducted in 
connection with this charity. 

PluMxMER Farm School. — This reformatory institution for boys 
occupies a French roofed wooden building on Winter Island, about 
one and one-half miles from the city. It may be reached by the 
" Willows" electric cars, which pass within five minutes' walk. It was 
endowed by Miss Caroline Piummer, whose bequest also built Plum- 
mer Hall. The original bequest was $20,000; the present fund is 
$50,000. The school was incorporated in 1855, but the building was 
not erected till 1870. The late Capt. John Bertram left a bequest of 
$35,oco to this institution. Visitors are admitted on Wednesdays from 
3 to 6 p. M. 

Seamen's Orphan and Children's Friend Society. — This was 
originally known as " The Children's Friend Society,'' and was 
started by Rev. Michael Carlton, a most benevolent man and min- 
ister at large, whose name is connected with the early efforts of 
charitable organizations in Salem, to assist orphan children. After 
taking children to his own home w^here they were cared for by Mrs. 
Carlton and himself, assistance was received from friends and rooms 
were occupied in^the building on Charter street known as the "Dr- 
Grimshawe House." The society organized in 1839 and later occupied 
a house at 7 Carpenter street adjoining the present larger hom.e which 
was erected in 1877. The first building was the gift of Robert Brook- 
house ; it was fitted up by subscription and by means of donations and 



Il6 visitor's guide to SALEM, 

bequests. The society now owns, besides the present home, a build- 
ing on the opposite side of the street used as a hospital. Its working 
funds have also been increased and with this the usefulness of the 
home and the number of children supported. 

City Orphan Asylum. — The City Orphan Asylum of the Sisters of 
Charity, occupies a large brick building 21,5 Lafayette street, to which 
a very large addition was made in 1893. The Asylum was organized in 
1866. It furnishes a home for indigent men and women, and orphan 
boys and girls— the latter being educated in the common branches. 
It is conducted by Sisters of the Gray Nuns. Visitors are admitted 
on Thursdays. 

"The Fraternity." — Visitors will be interested in calling at the 
Fraternity rooms, Downing Block, Essex street, which are open every 
evening. These rooms are maintained primarily for young people in 
the city without friends or home influences. The rooms are free to all 
and are supplied with bocks and newspapers in abundance. Music and 
games add to the attractions of the rooms. Free instruction is given 
by competent volunteer teachers to those who desire to study. The 
rooms are frequented by a large number, and great good has resulted 
from their establishment. The Fraternity was organized in 1869. 

Young Men's Christian Association. — The building of the Young 
Men's Christian Association is at 2oi Central street. It has reading 
rooms, library, hall for meetings and a gymnasium. Papers, periodi- 
cals and books are provided. The rooms are open to the public day 
and evening (Sundays excepted). Religious meetings are held as 
follows : Sunday 6 p. m. ; Thursday evening, Bible class ; Tuesday 
evening, meeting for boys. A '' Railroad Branch " is also conducted, 
meetings being held in the B. & M. station on Sunday afternoons. 

The Salem Charitable Mechanic Association has rooms under 
Mechanic Hall, Crombie street, and was organized in 181 7. It has 
a library of 6,000 volumes for the use of its members. Its rooms are 
open Saturday evenings. 



CHARITIES. 117 

In addition to these, there are many charitable organizations, inde- 
pendent and connected with other societies, such as Masons, Odd 
Fellows, Grand Army, and others of a semi-social and charitable char- 
acter which do most excellent work in their respective fields in Salem. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Business, 

THE Salem Board of Trade, which was organized in 1889 with 
a large membership, has rooms in Hale's Building, 225 Essex 
street. Regular meetings of the Board are held on the third Thursday 
of each month at 8 o'clock, p. m. ; its executive committee holding 
meetings on Tuesday of each week. The rooms are open for the use 
of business men or business organizations, permission first being 
obtained by applying to the secretary. The officers are : President, 
Cyrus A. Jordan ; Secretary, Edward F. Brown. 

The Master Builders' Association has ample quarters in its 
building number 11 Central street, formerly occupied by the First 
National Bank. This building was designed by Charles Bulfinch who 
planned the first capitol at Washington and the State House at Bos- 
ton. On renovating the rooms on the lower floor for occupancy a 
false lower ceiling was discovered, upon removing which the original 
ceiling was brought to light with a beautiful stucco centre piece. This 
was carefully restored and may now be seen at the rooms of the Asso- 
ciation which are open daily : officers ; President, Benjamin E. Touret ; 
Secretary, Charles E. Curtis. 

Banks and Insurance Companies.— There are seven National and 
two Savings Banks in Salem : Asiatic National, 125 Washington street, 
capital, #315,000 ; Exchange National, 109 Washington street, capital, 
#200,000 ; First National, 208 Essex street, capital, #300,000 ; Mercantile 
National, 11 Central street, capital, #2co,ooo ; Merchants National, 234 
Essex street, capital, #200,003 ; Naumkeag National, 227 Essex street, 
(118) 



BUSINESS. 119 

capital, 5500,000; Salem National, 114 Washington streel, capital, 
$300,000; Salem Savings Bank, 125 Washington street, deposits about 
y$7,5oo,ooo ; Five Cents Savings Bank, 210 Essex street, deposits about 
^4,500,000. The National Banks are open from 8.30 a. .m. to 1.30 p. m. 
with the exception of the Asiatic which closes at 1.15 p. m. The Sav- 
ings Banks are open from 9 a. m. to i p. m. and the Five Cents Sav- 
ings Bank is in addition open for deposits on Saturday evenings from 
7 to 9. All of the National Banks pay good dividends and the Savings 
Banks rank with the strongest in the state. 

The Salem Cooperative Bank, one of the most successful of these 
excellent institutions in the state, has its headquarters at room 10, 
Kinsman Block. The Roger Conant Cooperative Bank has rooms at 
252 Essex street. 

There are three fire insurance companies, the Holyoke Mutual Fire 
Insurance Company owning and occupying a fine brick and freestone 
block, I [4 Washington street ; the Essex Mutual and the Salem Mutual. 

The Naumkeag Steam Cotton Company (Harbor, Peabody and 
Union sts.) has a plant of 106,000 spindles, 2,6do looms and employs 
1,500 hands. The motive powder is furnished by two Corliss engines 
and one pair Cooper-Corliss engines, the latter being of the tandem 
compound type and having the power taken from the large driving 
wheel by ropes instead of belts as has been the custom. The engines 
develop an aggregate of 3,500 horse power, to produce which 13,000 
tons of coal are consumed each year. The productions of the mill for 
1894 was 20,057.746 yards of cloth, varying in width from 28 to 100 
inches. This if stretched out in one line would reach from Salem to 
San Francisco and across the Pacific ocean to Japan. The bell on the 
mill No. I was cast by H. N. Hooper in 1846. It is struck each hour 
of the night by the watchman, and the clanging stroke is to the mill 
population what the watch's " all's well" was to the drowsy citizen of 
a century ago. It also rings' a morning call and for the opening and 
closing of the mills. It may be said that one-tenth of the whole popu- 



I20 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

lation of the city responds directly or indirectly to the daily ringing of 
this bell. 

Steam Railroad Communication. — The Boston and Maine Rail- 
road, Eastern Div. (formerly the Eastern Railroad), affords the railroad 
communication to and from Salem. The running time between Bos- 
ton and Salem varies from thirty to thirty-five minutes for express 
trains, to forty and forty-five minutes for accommodation trains. The 
main line extends as far east as Portland. Branches connect Salem 
with Lawrence, Lowell, Marblehead and Gloucester and all the local 
stations on these branches. The White Mountain region is reached 
by through trains via Portsmouth, Great Falls and North Conway, there 
being four trains daily each way during the summer season. All Port- 
land and mountain trains, besides several local trains afford communi- 
cation with Newburyport and Portsmouth, and accommodation trains 
with intermediate points. The Boston and Maine road affords ample 
facilities, both for freight and passengers, to and from Boston, and to 
all points east and west over its own line to Portland or Boston, thence 
over connecting roads to the Pacific coast on one side, and the state of 
Maine and the Provinces on the other. 

The Lowell division does a large freight business, mostly in coal, 
and on the Lawrence line heavy coal trains run to the Lawrence mills. 
For full information and local time tables application should be made 
to the ticket agent at the station, Washington street. 

Street Car Lines. — The Naumkeag division of the Lynn and Bos- 
ton Street Railway maintains ample accommodation between Salem 
and the surrounding towns and villages: Peabody, Danvers, Tapley- 
ville. Asylum Station, Marblehead, Swampscott, beyond to Melrose 
and Saugus, and the cities of Beverly and Lynn. In addition to these, 
which are electric lines, horse cars run from Beverly to Beverly Cove 
and Wenham, and in summer to Asbury Grove. An electric road is 
building to run between Beverly and Essex. On the Willows electric 
line innumerable trips are run from May to October. 



V BUSINESS. 121 

Peabody and Beverly are each about two miles from the horse-car 
station, which is in the Price P>uilding, corner of Essex and Washing- 
ton streets. Danvers is distant about tivejlmiles and W'enham about 
six. Asbury Grove, the location of the Methodist camp ground, is 
reached by the Wenham cars. Marblehead is about four miles, the 
" Willows " about two miles, and the terminals in North and South 
Salem are each one mile from the station. The Danvers cars go by 
two different routes, via Peabody and through North street, to the va- 
rious sections of Danvers — "the Port,'' "the Plains," " Tapleyville," 
" Putnamville,'' "the Centre" (old Salem Village) and "Asylum 
Station." Many spots of historical interest are reached by these lines. 
A new power station with its conspicuous and lofty chimney stack is 
located on Mason street. 

Electrical. — The New England Telephone and Telegraph Com- 
pany has a large "exchange " in Salem, with about 400 subscribers in 
the city. The Central office is in the Northey Block, 106 Washington 
street corner of Essex. The Salem Electric Lighting Company has a 
valuable plant 21 to 27 Peabody street, built in 1889, furnishing 300 
arc lights of 2000 candle power each and 4000 incandescent lights. 
The system used is the Thomson-Houston. A^isitors are admitted on 
application at the Company's office, 114 Washington street. The 
office of the Western Union Telegraph Company is centrally located 
in the Northey Building on Washington street. The city has an elec- 
tric and telephone fire alarm system, and special police lines. David 
Mason more than a century ago delivered lectures on electricity at 
his residence in Salem, which were the first lectures on this subject 
given in this region. The first incandescent light ever used in a 
dwelling is said to have been in a house at number 11 Pearl street, in 
July, 1859, this light being the invention of Prof. Moses G. Farmer 
who then resided in Salem. The telephone also originated in Salem : 
Prof. Charles G. Page, who made experiments in magnetic currents in 
connection with musical sounds in 1837, the forerunner of the tele- 



122 visitor's guide 'JO SAlElNL 

phone, had his laboratory at 259 Essex St., and Prof. A. Graham Bell 
lived at 292 Essex street while perfecting his telephone which was first 
publicly exhibited in Lyceum Hall before a meeting of the Essex In- 
stitute, Feb. 12, 1877. The Salem Gas Light Company has its newly 
established plant at the foot of Bridge street, its office at 161 Essex 
street. The company was organized in 1850, the capital now being 
$300,000. 

Express Lines.— Moulton's, Merritt & Co.'s, Savory & Co.'s, Lake- 
man's and the American make from two to four trips daily, to and from 
Boston and ample service is furnished by direct connections over all 
eastern, western and southern routes. 

Boarding Houses, Etc. — The Central House, 167 to 173 Washing- 
ton street ; the Washington House, 150 Washington street; the "Doyle 
Mansion," 33 Summer street; the Eaton House, 17 North street; the 
Chase House, 23-24 Federal street; the Porter House, 17 Brown street; 
the Butman House, 98 Washington square ; the Ocean View, Central 
and Atlantic Houses, (summer) at Juniper Point. 

Restaurants. — Porter's Dining Rooms, 7 Central street ; H. F. Cur- 
tis' rooms, 200 Essex street; James' Cafe, 256 Essex street; Simon's 
ice cream rooms, 140 Essex street; Newcomb's oyster house, Derby 
Square and Fred Brown's, Washington street. 

Newspapers. — There are five newspapers published in Salem — three 
weeklies, and two dailies. 

The Salem Gazette^ published at an office in Hale's Building, 223 Es- 
sex street, daily, was started in 1768 as the Essex Gazette. 

The Salem Observer^ published each Saturday morning, at the 
Observer Building, City Hall Avenue, was started in 1823. 

The Essex County Mercury^ a weekly edition of the Gazette, is pub- 
lished on Wednesdays. It was started in 1831. 

The, .Si?/^;;/ ^6'<r;^/;/^o- A^7(!'j-, established in 1880, is published daily at 
122 Washington street. 

V Aiglc, published in French, started in 1894, has its place of busi- 
ness at 290 Lafayette street. 



BUSINESS. 123 

The largest business interests of Salem have for many years been the 
various branches of the leather industry, with the factories located in 
the vicinity of Boston street and in Peabody and more recently in 
South Salem. The cotton factory of the Naumkeag Steam Cotton 
Company is at the water's edge at the foot of Harbor street. The coal 
companies with their wharves, where large schooners, steamers and 
barges are constantly discharging their cargoes, are located at the 
easterly end of the town on Derby street ; Pennsylvania Pier and 
Phillips Wharf being the principal headquarters for this largely in- 
creasing business. 

On White street, Andrew J. Frisbee, shipwright, has within recent 
years turned out many fine yachts from his yard which occupies a site 
very near the spot where for two centuries several generations of 
Beckets built vessels of all grades, including many of the most famous 
Salem ships, among them the " Recovery," " Margaret," " Mount Ver. 
non " and privateer "America," and where the celebrated yacht 
" Cleopatra's Barge " bailt for George Crowninshield was launched 
fully rigged and provisioned for a pleasure trip to the Mediterranean, 
October 21, 181 6. 

Visitors to Salem will find Essex and^ the neighboring streets the 
shopping centre. Here are stores equalling in the character of their 
departments leading metropolitan establishments of like description ; 
while there are also very many smaller stores covering all the branches 
of retail trade. Tourists as well as the regular summer visitors can 
therefore have their wants in the shopping line easily supplied in 
Salem. To mention these dealers in detail is not within the province 
<of this Guide. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Fuhlk Grounds. 

/^ "Cemeteries. —The graves of the earliest settlers in Salem, like 
1 ^ those in Plymouth, are unmarked. It would be interesting to 
point out the spot where the frail Arbella Johnson was buried, but 
tradition only tells us indefinitely of her last resting place. But there 
are many interesting stones in the older cemeteries which the visitors 
will wish to see. 

Charter-street Cemetery, the oldest in the city, formerly known as 
"Burying Point," is on Charter street, between Central and Liberty 
streets. The^oldest stones will be found just east of the large willow 
tree in the centre of the ground and west of it towards the western 
fence and in the rear of the " Dr. Grimshawe House." The oldest 
stone is that of " Doraty, wife of Philip Cromwell," 1673. A very 
curious stone erected to the memory of Timothy Lindall, a merchant 
of Salem, should be noticed, as well as that of Nathaniel Mather, 
the precocious younger brother of the celebrated Cotton Mather 
of Boston. Mary Corey, the first wife of Giles Corey, is buried 
here, and also Gov. Bradstreet, the Rev. John Higginson, the Chief 
Justices Lynde and Judge Hathorne of witchcraft fame. (See also 
chapter on Hawthorne in Salem.) Gov. Bradstreet's tomb, covered 
with a simple monument erected by the state in 1697, is easily found. 

A bronze tablet, recently placed upon the iron fence facing the 
street, states that : — 
(124) 




7J77. 



-% 




"Old Burying Point", Charter street. 

Ancient Headstone, Charter street. 



public grounds. i 25 

This Gkouxd, 

the first set apart ix 

Salejvi 

for the burial of the dead, 

and, since 1637, known as 

The Burying Point, 

CONTAINS the GRAVES OF 

Governor Bradstreet, 

Chief Justice Lynde, 

and others whose virtues, 

honors, courage, and sagacity, 

have nobly illustrated 

the history op Salem. 

llie Broad-st red Cemetery is reached from gates on Summer street, 
and at the corner of Broad and Winthrop streets. Here are buried 
Capt. George Corwin (the sheriff who served the warrants on those 
charged with witchcraft), C'ol. Timothy Pickering, General Lander, 
and Caroline Plummer, whose name is attached to literary and charit- 
able institutions in Salem. This cemetery was first used in 1655. The 
oldest stones are upon the higher ground at the southern part of the 
cemetery : among them are those of John Norman, 17:3; the Welds, 
1701-12 : Mary Lambert, 1693; and the three Sevvall children, 1684-88, 
the record on the last named stone closing with a quaint but pathetic 
verse. 

The Howard-street Ce??ietery was first used in 1801. It is on Howard 
street at the corner of Bridge. 

Greenlawn Cemetery^ first used in 1807, and for many years known as 
Orne street Cemetery is on Orne street, near North. It has been 



126 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

greatly improved of laie by the city and the lot owners. There is a 
soldiers' monument in the cemetery, erected by the Sons of Veterans, 
and a very beautiful memorial chapel and conservatory, the gift of 
Mr. Walter S. Dickson to the city. 

The Frietids' Cemetery is on Essex street, at the corner of Pine. 

llie Roman Catholic Cemetery is on North street, a mile from the 
city. It has been enlarged much in recent 3^ears and is being made at- 
tractive by the owners of lots. 

Hannoiiy GroTc Cemetery lies on the Peabody line, and comprises 
about sixty-tive acres. The principal entrance is at Grove street. This 
was one of the first of the rural cemeteries to be established in this 
neighborhood, following closely the model set at Mount Auburn. A 
very graceful arch of rough stones spans the carriage-way at the en- 
trance, and a rockery is situated just inside the grounds at this point. 
It is fortunate m having within its precincts some fine wooded growth 
which gives it a quiet and secluded air, though this seclusion is some- 
what marred by the close proximity to the railroad and its numerous 
passing trains. Many expensive monuments have been placed in 
private lots. Some of the finest are to be seen on Greenwood, Forest, 
Cypress, Linden, and Maple avenues, and on Locust and Hemlock 
paths. In a lot on Locust path the remains of George Peabody, the 
great philanthropist, are interred. A large sarcophagus of granite 
marks the spot. A soldiers' lot on Greenwood avenue, has a fine 
granite monument and a tablet, erected by means of the M. Fenollosa 
fund. This cemetery was established in 1840, 

St. Peters Churchyard \'s> the only typical churchyard burying ground 
in Salem. The space originally devoted to the graves has been en- 
croached upon by the widening of Brown street and the building of 
the chapel, so that there is left, exposed, but few of the many stones 
which were once in sight. Burials w^ere made here soon after the 
building of the first church edifice in 1733, but the oldest stones now 
to be seen are those of James Jeffry, 1755, and Mrs. Hannah Mottey, 
1768. (See also chapter on churches : St. Peter's.) 





The Willows. 



View from Willows. 



PUBLIC GROUNDS. 1 27 

The Common, which was nearl}^ a century ago named Washington 
square, is a territory of about eight acres, bounded by what were until 
1880 known as Newbury, Brown, Pleasant and Forrester streets, but 
now called by the general name of the square. This reservation was 
made in 1714, when it was voted that the spot "where trainings are 
held in front of Nathaniel Higginson's house, shall be forever kept as 
a training field for the use of Salem." It is now a level lawn, though 
when laid out it was marshy and very unev^en, and there were several 
small ponds and hillocks included within its borders. In 1801, Elias 
Haskett Derby, then Colonel of the militia, raised about $2500 for put- 
ting the reservation in better condition for a " training field." The 
name ''Washington Square" was given to the Common by the select- 
men in [802. The large elms on the Common were planted about 1818 
to replace Lombardy poplars, the trees first put out in 1802 and which 
soon failed. At this date Dr. Bentley's diary records the raising of the 
causeway at the western gate of the Common, and there were bath 
houses in Forrester street. 

Salem Neck and the Willows. — The "Neck" is a general name 
for all lands below the terminus of Derby street. It was originally held 
as common land and as far back as 17 14 was used for pasturage and 
the curing of fish. In 1679, there were so many persons located at 
Winter Island, the portion of the Neck to the southeast and separated 
by water from the larger peninsula, that a "victualling house" was 
licensed there for their convenience. There have been forts and 
block houses on the Neck from the earliest times and in 1799 the noted 
frigate, " Essex," was built at a spot not far from the lighthouse on 
Winter Island. There was a fort on Winter Island as early as 1643,, 
and on the site of Fort Lee, the heights of the Neck, in 1742. During 
the war of 1812 there were three forts at the Neck— Pickering, Lee and 
Juniper. The United States government has two reservations on the 
Neck for fortifications — Forts Lee and Pickering, both earthworks, 
and now tumbling to ruin, though put in excellent order during the 



128 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

war of 1 861-5. The former mounted four large guns, which from their 
elevated position commanded the approaches to the outer harbor. 
Fort Pickering was supplied with some twenty guns intended to pre- 
vent the passage of unfriendly vessels into the inner harbor. The 
ruins add much to the picturesque appearance of the Neck, and a 
stroll through Fort Pickering will be found interesting. Climbing the 
parapet the visitor finds himself at the end of a little bridge leading to 
the government lighthouse, and into this he may go if he will apply to 
the keeper. 

"Juniper Point" joins the public grounds at the Willows. It has 
been divided into house lots for summer cottages. Many Salem 
people, besides others, pass the summer months here. The cottages 
are neat and pleasantly situated. There are three hotels : The Ocean 
View, the Atlantic and the Central. 

" The Willows," a portion of the northeastern part of Salem Neck, 
is the popular public ground of the city. It is about twenty minutes 
ride in the street-cars from the city, and frequent communication is 
afforded in the summer season by the Street Railway, which company 
has done much in addition to the city's efforts to make this an attrac- 
tive pleasure ground. The location is a beautiful one. The peninsula 
juts out in a rugged point; one of the few of such sites on our coast, 
freely accessible to the public, and near any of the larger centres of 
population. To the north lies the Beverly shore, with its summer 
cotta^-es peeping out among the trees ; Cape Ann runs oft' at the north- 
east ; directly seaward lie Baker's, Lowell, and the smaller islands of 
the harbor, and on the south is the rocky headland of Marblehead with 
its dilapidated old fort Miller at the water's edge. A fine " Pavilion '" 
facing the open ocean was erected in 1879 and from its spacious 
verandas an unobstructed view may be had of the entire outer harbor, 
the "North Shore," and the islands and shipping in the bay and on 
fine days the harbor is enlivened by sailing craft and steamers. Steam- 
boat excursions are made at low rates of fare among the islands and 



PUISLIC GROUNDS. I 29 

along the North Shore, the steamer " S. E. Spring " making frequent 
trips to Baker's Island, while larger boats ply between Beverly, the 
Willows, and Marblehead and Boston. The city provides several shel- 
ters, where parties may lunch, and enjoy the scenery and the surround- 
ings. Several restaurants are rented by the city^ and at any one of 
them a good lunch, dinner or supper may be had at a moderate price ; 
and there are, besides, the usual amusements to be found for children 
in public places. The old trees which gave the name to this marine 
park are European white willows. Tney were planted by the Board of 
Health of Salem in 1801. There are nineteen of the forty trees origi- 
nally planted at that time remaining to-day, varying in circumference 
at five feet from the ground, from seven feet and nine inches to ten 
feet and ten inches, the average for all of the trees being nine feet and 
six inches. 

Salem Harbor— The harbor of Salem is oneof the most picturesque 
on the coast, and there are many points of interest within a day's sail 
It is a delightful sail up the river to D mversport, or in an opposite direc- 
tion around the arm of the harbor that makes up to Forest river. A half 
day may be pleasantly spent in skirting the shore on either the northern 
or southern side of the bay— the northern shore running off to Glouces- 
ter, and the southern around tha rocky heidlands of Mirbleh^ad. A 
few hours will give ample time to sail among the islands, of which 
Baker's, Lowell and Misery are the largest. On the former, which has 
now become a popular summer resort, there a^e two lighthouses, and 
a public house called the Winne Egan, and on Lowell Island is the 
Island House now a Sanitarium for invalid children. A short distance 
off shore there are several good fishing grounds, where perch, locally 
called "cunners,'' may be caught in abundaice. Farther out, on the 
sunken ledges, small cod may ba taken, and a few miles in the bay 
mackerel schooners are frequently seen in the season for catching that 
fish. Sail-boats can readily be engaged with a competent skipper for 
excursion parties, and boats for rowing can always be secured at a 



130 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

small rate per hour. The hours of the sailing of the steamers may be 
found by inquiring at the office of the Street Railway or at the Willows 
and in the daily papers. 

There are also public grounds at "Liberty Hill'' in North Salem, 
^^here a cold spring has for years been the favorite resort for the 
people of that section of the city. There is at the head of Bread 
street, on land owned by the Great Pasture Corporation, a rocky ledge 
rising abruptly from the surrounding land on the summit of which, 
from time immemorial, the bonfires have been lighted on the eve of 
" the Fourth of July"' and on the occasion of other celebrations. The 
hill rs covered with "wocd-wax" which is usually in full flower about 
July 4, when the effect of the flaring fire on the golden fiow^ers and 
masses of people collected in groups about the hills is picturesque in 
the extreme. 




Baker's Island. "Point of Rocks.' 



liiiJi^cr's Island. "The Cliffs. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Natuj-al Objects of Li f crest, 

TIT 

*> I ^ HE neighborhood of Salem has for a long time been the stamp- 

X ing ground of the botanist and zoologist as well as for those 
interested in minerals and rocks. In fact, from the time of its earliest 
European settlements, the natural objects of the region have attracted 
the attention of writers and the curious in natural history, Higginson 
and Winthrop have recorded their interest in the animals and plants 
about Salem, and Josselyn, who published particular accounts of the 
fauna and flora of New England more than two hundred years ago, un- 
doubtedly travelled in the immediate neighborhood and, besides, 
gained information from accounts given him by the early settlers here, 
Manasseh Cutler, however, was the first systematic botanist who under- 
took to describe our flora, and the road from Ipswich Hamlets (Ham- 
ilton) to Salem must have been known to him step by step. From his 
day a continuous line of excellent botanists have carried out the work 
he began in this section of New England. The animals have been 
studied ever since the Essex County Natural History Society com- 
menced its labors in 1834, and the rocks have puzzled more than one 
eminent geologist for three-quarters of a century. The accounts of 
the work done by a large number of students in this region are to be 
found in the publications of the Essex Institute while the material re- 
sults in the form of specimens collected are in the museum of the 
Peabody Academy of Science. (See sketch of these institutions in 
this Guide). The facilities for studying natural history thus aft'orded 

(r3i) 



122 visitor's CxUIDE to SALEM. 

have awakened a general interest in these matters, so that the green 
plant box of the botanist, the insect net, the zoologist's dredge and the 
leather bag and hammer of the geologist are familiar sights to the 
people of Salem and its neighborhood. 

The rocks of this region belong to a complicated series, chiefly diorite, 
syenite, granite and felsite. On Salem Neck is an interesting forma- 
tion called, technically, elaeolite-syenite, a form of which, first described 
from this region, is now known as Essexite. These rocks can only be 
studied in this country in New Jersey, Arkansas and one or two other 
places and in South America, Norway and Portugal, so that the Neck 
offers an easily accessible field for studying them. Here, also, the 
rare mineral sodalite is found in little blue patches of much beauty. 
Discovered years ago and then lost sight of, it has been searched for 
by collectors for a generation until lately rediscovered near the old lo- 
cation and on some of the islands in Salem harbor. On the shore of 
Marblehead Neck occurs the keroatphyre, the rock mass of 4he region 
being felsite. At Nahant and at Rowley are the remains of what were 
once larger deposits of an early Cambrian limestone which contains 
fossils of low forms of animals. All through the region of Salem are 
masses of the bed rock, cut and recut by dykes of other sorts of rock 
which has forced itself up through the cracks of the original formations 
in every direction. Many of these are most interesting and instructive 
to study and good examples may be seen on the Neck and near the Es- 
sex bridge leading to Beverly where the trap dyke made famous by 
Hitchcock more than half a century ago is still preserved. 

The surface geology is, perhaps, even more interesting to the pedes- 
trian and charming walks to curious boulders often on high eminences of- 
fer tempting occupation for a spare half day. The "Ship Rock" in 
Peabody (leave cars at Newell's Crossing, So. Reading branch, B. & 
M. R. R.), fortunately the property of the Essex Institute, and thus 
saved from more practical service in the form of edgestones and block 
pavements in Salem streets, is a huge mass of granite estimated to 



NATURAL OBJECTS OF IXTEREST. 1 33 

weigh 1 100 tons, standing quite high on a ledge of the same rock and 
is the largest boulder of this character in this region Agassiz rock, 
another large boulder on a hill near the town of Manchester and one 
in the swamp near it, probably, as regards size, come next in order. 
In the woods, some two miles south of Ship Rock, toward Lynn, are 
many boulders, several being at the very top of Prospect Hill. Beyond 
these, across the intervening valley, on the southern crest of the next 
ridge, is " Phaeton Rock," a granite boulder weighing, perhaps, ten 
tons, balanced upon three smaller boulders just at the edge 
of the cliff, while not far from this, and quite near Cedar Pond, is a 
cave made from the disintegrated and fallen ledge rock, into which 
the fearless inquirer may squeeze his way, through a narrow opening, 
to find quite a sizable, although dark chamber within. All of this 
boulder region in Peabody and Lynn may be visited from Salem by 
good pedestrians in an afternoon, steam cars and street railways 
assisting to quickly pass the less interesting parts of the route in 
town. 

The " dungeons "or " kettle holes '' form another interesting feature 
of the surface geology of this region. These are very deep pits, often 
with little ponds at the bottom, scattered among the gravelly hills of 
Essex County. In some cases they are nearly one hundred feet in 
depth, with very steep sides, the diameter at the top being but a few 
rods. The best examples may easily be reached by leaving the street 
cars of the Marblehead division at the crest of the hill beyond Forest 
river and striking across the fields back and southwesterly of the car 
house and cemetery. There are several dungeons at this point and the 
walk can be continued to Legge's hill and back by Loring avenue to 
Lafayette street. From Legge's hill a fine view of the shore from Lynn 
to Marblehead may be obtained. Connected with the dungeons in 
geologic interest are the "kames" or " Indian Ridges," as they are 
commonly called, which Professor Wright in his "Ice Age in North 
America," speaks of as being the last work of the glaciers of that 



134 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 



period. The kames really seem like huge artificial embankments with 
steep sides and very narrow at the top. They run across the county 
in lines from the northwest to the southeast. One at the western side 
of Wenham pond may be follow^ed for some miles with occasional 
breaks and another, which finally blends into it, near Beaver Pond, 
Beverly, may be followed a similar distance. And, if one should 
desire, the whole formation could be traced out across Topsfield, Box- 
ford and Bradford, to the Merrimac river and beyond that into New 
Hampshire. Those near Salem are accessible by the cars of the street 
raihvay from North Beverl}^ where, after a pleasant walk of some three 
miles overlooking Wenham pond and, after crossing one or two roads 
and passing over the ridges near Cedar pond, Wenham meeting-house is 
reached by the Danvers road and the cars taken for the return trip. 
Besides the kames, the region about Salem is dotted with conspicuous 
hills, some of them two hundred feet high, the longer axesofwliich 
follow the same direction as that of the kames. These, however, be- 
long to a geologic period somev^hat earlier and are known, technically^ 
as "drumlins." Mar.y of these hills are sought as the objective points 
of walks, and such as Folly hill in Danvers, and Turner's hill in 
Ipswich, amply repay the hard tramp up their steep sides by the mag. 
nificent expanse of held, shore and villages which may be seen from 
their sumrTiits. 

The piers of Essex bridge, between Salem and Beverly, have long 
been a noted place for collecting the invertebrates living in the salt 
water. Here at low tide, when there is a high run of tides, — not low 
tides as described in the almanac, for that means the tide neither rises 
high nor runs far out, — there is a good opportunity for collecting and 
studying the curious sea-anemones, star-fishes, sea-urchins, hydroids 
and many little mollusks ; and our beaches after a storm will furnish 
interesting marine forms both of animal and plant life for those who 
are not familiar with the products of the sea. The birds, whether 
those of the marshes and beaches or the inland species, may be best 




Nichols House: Colonial Arcbitccturc. 



Paved l^ard of Nichols House. 



NATUKAI, OI'.jKCrs OF INTHRKSI'. . I35 

observed by the aid of an opera glass; — much belter, in fact, than 
over the sights of a shot gun, — and many resident species of birds and 
even the ways of the shyer c[uadrupeds can be studied in the woods of 
Beverly, Manchester, f-ynnheld and Hoxford by those who know their 
habits. 

There arc many nooks and corners about Salem where rare and 
beautiful plants can be collected, from the little Draba in the earliest 
April to the fringed gentian of October, Hcpaticas abound in the 
woods at Swampscott and near Wenham pond, and there are hosts of 
beautiful flowers and graceful ferns in the region near by, where, even 
yet, it is possible to tramp without trespassing on land exclusively 
reserved for summer residences, although this privilege can not be 
expected to last much longer. There are, too, in Salem, many fine 
trees well worthy of a visit by those interested in this branch of botany. 
In the garden of the estate of the Salem Club, formerly the residence 
of the late Col. George Peabody, on Washington Sq., and best seen 
from Mall St., is the largest tulip tree in this region and there are 
several fine magnolias in yards about the city. The finest lindens are 
on the estate of Francis Peabody at Danvers, although many of our 
streets are made fragrant by the blossoms of these trees in June- 
Salem is famous for its noble horsechestnuts, and there are fine maples 
on Dearborn street, Fairfield street and by the house of the Misses 
Ropes, on Fssex street above the North church. The largest catalpa 
is on Brown street and the Bertram elm, in the grounds of the Public 
Library, a tree nearly fifteen feet in its least girt, although but seventy- 
seven years of age, is the largest and finest elm in the city. The elms 
at the upper end of Lafayette street are but little less than one hun- 
dred years old. European walnuts which ripen their fruit are found in 
several places in Salem, and noble oaks and hickories grow naturally 
at " Kernwood." 

On Broad street, nearly opposite Pickering, is a bald cypress from 
the southern United States, a tree often mistaken for the cedar of 



136 VISI'I'OR's guide to SALEM. 

Lebanon, and there is another still larger on the Derby estate in South 
Salem. These are probably the most northerly growing trees of this 
species. The traditional Endicott pear tree planted by Gov. Endicott 
in 1630 and still bearing fruit may be seen from the trains, on the 
Lawrence branch of the B. & M. R. R., beyond Peabody, and just 
before reaching Danversport station, at the left in an open field but 
protected by a rail fence. There is, however, on Hardy street, in 
Salem, a pear tree nearly as old as the more celebrated Endicott pear 
and in a more flourishing condition, known as the Allen pear tree. 

Nearly every traveller on the railroad between Lynn and Salem, 
during the later part of June or early in July, is impressed with the 
gorgeousness of the rocky pastures on either side of the track, golden 
with the masses of wood-wax {Genista finctoria) then in full flower and 
standing out in striking contrast against the dark bushy red cedars 
which abound on all the hills. This plant from the old. world, recorded 
as having been introduced by the emigrants with Endicott, in 1628, for 
the purpose of making a dye, is not seen in similar large masses at any 
great distance from Salem. Its spread has been extensive and per- 
sistent on these bare hills of which it has taken complete possession. 
But an outline merely can be given of these natural objects of interest. 
The large and well labelled local collections of rocks, plants and 
animals at the museum of the Peabody Academy of Science always 
open to public inspection, and the numerous articles in the publica- 
tions of the Essex Institute, descriptive of the groups included in our 
fauna and flora and giving the location of the various species, which 
may be consulted either at the Institute or at the Public Library will 
furnish sufficient information to keep an active student or collector 
busy for an entire summer without beginning to exhaust the means of 
rational amusement or the many charming drives or refreshing walks 
suggested at the same time. 



CHAP TER X. 

Drives and Walks, 

SALEM being a famous centre for pleasure riding, this Guide 
Book takes no note of street-car and bicycle riding, in neither 
of which can the stranger go amiss. 

MARBLEHEAD. 

The drive to the quaint old town of Marblehead is very enjoyable to 
any one who appreciates the picturesque. Many of the streets are 
crooked beyond imagination, reminding those who have travelled 
abroad of the older parts of Naples ; the earliest houses are as striking 
in appearance and as queerly constructed as the streets. It is an old 
provincial town, entirely unlike any other place in this vicinity. It was 
settled largely, while a part of Salem, by fishermen from the Channel 
Islands, and French Huguenot names are far from rare among them, 
though often corrupted, at this day.' They are a most hospitable people, 
and famous fighters, and had a whole regiment of their own underarms 
during the Revolutionary War which furnished oarsmen in Washing- 
ton's passage of the Delaware and of New York Harbor. A pleasant 
hour may be spent in driving through its streets, and the people, who 
are very proud of their town, are always ready to show the stranger its 
odd features and points of historic interest. In the summer time its 
harbor is the rendezvous of the yachts of the leading clubs, cruising 
along the coast, and the regattas of the Eastern and Corinthian Clubs 
are events of the season here. Fort Sewall, now used practically for 
park purposes, commands a most beautiful prospect and is one of the 



138 VISIIOR's GUIDK TO SALEM. 

principal attractions of the town. Crocker park, near the ferry-landing, 
at Tucker's wharf, is a sightly cliff overlooking the harbor. 

KOUTE FROM SaLK.M TO MAKBLEHEAI) AND KKTrnX. — lOJ .MILES. 

Ex2ylanatloiis of Signs. — r. llight hand. /. F^eft hand. Figures in hrackets 
are the distances on the road in miles hetwecn the ]*)oints named. 

STARTIXG FKOAf f'ENTHAL, rORNEIl OF ESSKX ST. ' 

Lafayette St. 11^ miles). 

/. Salem Road (Marhlehead) [I]. 

Forest Eiver. 'I'he "dungeons,'" rear of cemetery on hill. 
Pleasant St. [i]. 

Deverenx 1{. H. Station. Work-houst; rocks, scene of Floyd Ire- I 
son's ride. Catholic (;]]ur(di, '' Star of the Sea.'' 
r. Prospect St. [ij. 

r. Washington St. []] (1<(!0|) to left of puin)*). 
/'. Common [3';,]. 

Ahhot II all. j 

Lee St. [jV]. 1 

Custom House. j 

Hooper St. [3^2]- ■ 

I. Washington St. 1 3)^ ]. 

Lee mansion, N<». J (59. 
r. IJockaway St. [ij. 
r. Summer St. [^|. 

St. Michael's churclL j 

L Washington St. If]. 

Judge Story's hirtli-])lacc. No. 104. 'I'ttwn Hall. Klhridge Gerry'S 
hirth-place. 

Fort Sewall. 
r. Franklin St. [i]. 

RETURN. 

)•. Orne St. |J-|. 

Old hurying liill. Site of Fountain Inn. 
Beacon St. [|]. 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 1 39 

Peach's Point. 
(Tree:i St. to Soldiers' inonniiieiit [f |, 

Codden's liill. Powder liouse. 
)•. Elm St. [i]. 
/. Water St. [yVl- 
r. Pleasant St. |li]. 

Mugford's monument. 
r. Salem Road [I]. 

Forest river. 
Lifayette St. [l^]. 

Marblehead Neck. This is a favorite drive of about five miles and 
may be taken in connection with that to Marblehead. Leaving the 
city by Lafayette street, a beautiful avenue lined with elm trees, the 
largest of which at the upper end of the street were planted by Ezekiel 
Hersey Derby in 1808, the road turns to the southeast and leads 
toward Marblehead. Just before entering the town, however, Ocean 
street is followed until the neck road is reached which passes across a 
causeway opposite the town, then along the shore of Marblehead 
Neck, and back to the starting point. If one wishes to see a magnifi- 
cent display of surf dashing upon the rocks, a favorable time to visit 
this locality is at the flood tide during or immediately after an easterly 
storm. There are many fine summer residences on the Neck and 
several summer hotels and boarding houses, among them the 
picturesque '' Nanepashemet," the "Atlantic," the " Boylston," the 
"Ocean-Side," and the "Irving." The club houses of the Eastern 
Yacht Club and Corinthian Yacht Club are also located here and can 
be visited upon invitation of members. 

Clifton Heights. A very pleasant drive of about three miles may be 
taken to the " Preston," the '' Crowninshield " and Clifton Heights, 
and "The Elms " on the Marblehead shore below Swampscott. Near 
Clifton Heights is "Gun Rock," a deep chasm in the rocks, into which 
the sea dashes at certain stages of the tide, with an explosive sound 



140 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

which, during heavy easterly storms, may be heard for a distance of 
three or four miles. From the rocks at this point there is good perch 
lishing. 
Route to Cliftox and MAiiBLEHEAD Neck and keturn— 11 miles. 

STARTING FROM CENTRAL, CORNER ESSEX STREET. 

Lafayette St. lU]. 

New State Normal School Imilding at junction Lorin^ Avenue. 
Loring Ave. 1|]. 
I. Pickman farm, 
r. Loring residence. 

L Forest river road, beyond causeway (Marblehead), [^\. 
I. Old Lynn road [i]. 
r. Swampseott road (acute angle) [\\. 
J. Clifton Ave. |^|. 

Ware's pond. Clifton Heights. Gun Kock. 
/. Atlantic Ave. [1.] 

Devereux beach. 
r. Beach St. [f ]. 

Devereux mansion. 
Drives on the Neck [2j. 

RETURN. 

r. Ocean St. [|]. 

Paiins of Fort Glover. 
/. Pleasant St. [f |. 

Devereux railroad station. 
,' : Salem road [ 1 1 . 

Forest river. 
r. Pine harbor view and distant Beverly shore. 
Lafayette St. [lij. (Salem). 

Swampseott Beaches. — From Salem to the several beaches at Swamp- 
seott, about four miles, is a favorite drive. The road is a pleasant one. 
and passes all the beaches and summer hotels and boarding-houses. 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 14I 

In "the season," the roads through the town are gay with passing 
vehicles, during the early hours of the evening, and the hotel and 
boarding house piazzas are crowded with their guests, most of whom 
have spent the day in the sultry business streets of Boston, enjoying the 
cooling ocean breezes. If desired, the drive may be extended a mile 
farther through Ocean street, Lynn — a beautiful avenue, flanked with 
private residences surrounded by gardens and lawns. 

Nahaiit Beach. The drive to Nahant beach is about six miles, the 
town of Nahant being three miles beyond. Passing through Swamp- 
scott and Lynn, to the drives last mentioned may be added that on 
Long Beach, a narrow strip of land connecting the peninsula of Nahant 
with the main land. This drive should be taken at low tide. At 
Nahant there are many commodious summer cottages with their finely 
kept lawns adding to the attractions of the drive. 

Beverly Shore. The visitor to Salem, who has a spare day on his 
hands, especially if he be a guest at one of the hostelries at the Willows, 
will naturally be tempted by the sight of the North Shore to spend 
some hours in exploring its much-lauded beauties. A day will take him. 
if seated behind a pair of cheerful roadsters, over the whole of the inter- 
esting excursion '" round the Cape," which no distinguished sojourner in 
this region is permitted to depart without enjoying, and which, below 
West Gloucester, becomes more and more rocky until the jumping off 
place is reached at Rockport with its Turk's Head Inn, and where 
nothing remains but granite quarries and storm-washed ledges and an 
unbroken ocean view extending as far as one can see to Europe. The 
wonderful panorama unfolds before the stranger the succeeding 
beauties of Beverly, Manchester, Gloucester, Rockport and Ipswich 
Beach. But for a drive of a few hours we propose first a trip along the 
shore road, where, in the cool of the afternoon, the finest equipages 
this side of Newport will be seen passing in review, with a return 
through rural lanes giving views of suburban Beverly, — the water 
works, — the city proper, — and at last in crossing Essex Bridge the 



142 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM, 

vista up Bass river at sunset, — a picture worth going far to see. After 
this drive, the visitor will no longer have to ask himself why it is that 
sea side lots in Beverly have been sold at figures comparable with land 
prices in London or New York or Boston or Chicago, and why sheep 
pastures and granite ledges and huckle-berry patches which a genera- 
tion ago the farmer thought too mean for cultivation, are now the 
most valuable of his possessions. 

Leaving the northern end of Essex Bridge we follow Cabot street a 
few rods to its junction with three others. Of these we take the one 
named Front street and passing the modest house (corner of Davis 
street) where the first Sunday School in America was gathered, and a 
more pretentious one a little further on in which lived the famous pri- 
vateersman of the Revolution, Hugh Hill, Andrew Jackson's cousin, — 
the terror of British commerce, — we come to Bartlett street, where we 
take our left hand for a few rods, and then our right hand again and 
follow Stone street to its end. This brings us to the incomparable shore 
road we are in search of. Here it is called Lothrop street in honor of 
the famous Indian fighter who, in command of the "flower of Essex " 
perished with his half a hundred men in 1675 ^t Bloody Brook. Fol- 
lowing this street without a turn for a strong half mile on the very 
margin of Massachusetts Bay, — shell-heaps and rude hearth-stones in 
Squaw Hollow and other swampy spots marking favorite resorts of the 
red men where they found shelter from the winds, and easy access to 
mussell-flats and clam-beds, — and passing, at the corner of Washing- 
ton street, the birthplace of Rantoul, whose grave is near by and whose 
monument bears an epitaph from the pen of Sumner, we turn next to 
the right and hug the shore for another half mile through Ober and 
Neptune streets, by Paul's Head with its prim little whitewashed 
light house, and just beyond it a fine esplanade now covered with sum- 
mer estates of the highest order, but in Revolutionary times one of the 
earliest drill-grounds and training-camps for raw recruits, when Wash- 
ington drew his sword under the Cambridge elm and Glover was mus- 



DRIVES AND WALKS. I43 

tering in his amphibious legions from Marblehead. Having turned to 
the right again, when we can advance no farther we find ourselves back 
in Hale street, and may follow it if we like to the Manchester line. If 
we do this we bear to the right again at the terminus of the street rail- 
way, — Chapman's corner it is called and it is the limit of the " Mack- 
erel Cove" village, — and just three miles from Salem City Hall. On 
the left or land side we find the road skirted with higher ground, 
thickly wooded for the most part and crowned with the most delight- 
ful retreats, perched high enough in their embowered eyries to over- 
look all between them and the illimitable sea. On the right hand side, 
which is the southern or ocean side, the excursionist will pass lane af- 
ter lane leading down to storied headlands, — Brackenbury Lane, — a 
name rooted in the soil since 1628, — Curtis Point where Curtis Wood- 
bury began the settlement of "Cape Ann Side," — all these embel- 
lished with the most tasteful and elaborate estates, but once the sites 
of garrison house and rude earth works in French and Indian and 
English wars, and presenting an intimate intermingling of upland and 
seashore, of woods and beach, of hillside and ocean side, quite peculiar 
to the place. Dwellers hereabouts did not wait for the poet Lowell to 
come amongst them in the summer of 1854 before discovering the su- 
periority of their shore road drive to anything which Nahant or New- 
port had to offer. The opening of Massachusetts Bay which bursts 
upon the sight at Mingo's Beach was likened without disadvantage, 
to the Bay of Naples by every traveller who had seen them both from 
the day when pleasure seekers began to explore Cape Ann, and when 
Lowell wrote to his friend the enthusiastic words we are courteously 
permitted to extract from his letters, he did no more than voice the 
praise which had for years welled up instinctively to native lips. 
[From " Letters of James Russell Lowell." Copyright, 1893, by Har- 
per and Brothers.] 

"• Now — in order that you may not fancy (as most persons who go to 
Rhode Island do) that Newport is the only place in the world where 



144 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 



there is any virtue in salt water— I will say a word or two of Beverly, 
Country and sea-shore are combined here in the most charming way. 
Find the Yankee word for Sorrento, and you have Beverly, — it is only 
the Bay of Naples translated into the New England dialect. The 
ocean and the forest are not estranged here, and the trees thrust them- 
selves down to the water's edge most confidingly. In some places the 
ivy plays in the air and the kelp in the water, like children of different 
ranks making shy advances to each other. Close behind us rises a 
rocky hill, and the pine woods begin, — wonderful woods, called Witch 
Woods by the natives because it is so easy to lose yourself in them. 
All through them strange rocks bulge out — amphibious looking hybrids 
between sea-shore and inland — their upper edges fringed lightly with 
ferns that seem to entangle the sunshine and hold it fast, and their 
bases rough with queer lichens that look like water-weeds. I think 
that there is more ocean than land in the blood of these rocks, and 
they always seem to me listening and waiting for the waves. ***** 
We are in a little house close upon the road, with the sea just below, 
as seen through a fringe of cedar, wild cherry and barberry. Beyond 
this fringe is a sand beach where we bathe. We are at the foot of a 
bay, across the mouth of which lies a line of islands — some bare rock, 
some shrubby, and some wooded. These are the true islands of the 
Sirens. One has been disenchanted by a great hotel, to which a 
steamboat runs innumerably every day with a band. * * * Our sun- 
set is all in the south-east, and every evening the clouds and islands 
bloom and the slow sails are yellowed and the dories become golden 
birds swinging on the rosy water. *** But at Newport you have no 
woods. * * * * I hope to see you and Newport soon and you shall 
find in me the Beverly grandeur of soul which can acknowledge alien 
merit." 

WITCH WOODS, WITCH LANE, 

terms suggestive, as the poet goes on to say, of some elfin farm- 
house of one of the old Salem warlocks, — these were veritable 



DRIVES AND WALKS. I45 

spots close at hand, with their traditions of secret closets and 
haunted chambers and visionary hay-stacks \vhich one may get a 
glimpse of and then lose, or of cock-crowing and the low of cattle 
never heard but once, or a blue wreath of smoke now seen, — now gone. 
Mingo's Beach, with its drifting mists, took its name from a negro 
slave of the village, and here a schooner, run ashore under British 
guns, was fired by a boat's crew from the hostile man-of-war and 
abandoned, June 9, 1S14. 

Pushing on by Pride's Crossing Station, four miles from Salem City 
Hall, to the station at Beverly Farms, by Emerson's exquisite little 
Catholic Church and by two old houses on either hand just before the 
railroad is reached, in the right hand one of which Dr. Holmes lived 
when he dated his letters from " Beverly-Farms-by-the-Depot," while 
in the other lived Lucy Larcom and entertained Whittier as a guest 
there, we follow West street a little further and reach an old town land- 
ing where the road practically traverses a portion of the beach, and 
where the islands and the headlands and the sparkling sea ail seem to 
join in the invitation of the boatman who offers to take you for an 
hour's sail. 

Five miles as the crow flies, six miles or so as the road lies, now 
separate us from the City Hall at Salem. Another hour will take us 
through Manchester town and through the exquisitely wooded drives 
in Essex woods or down the Gloucester road. If we prefer a home- 
ward turn it may be well to vary the scene somewhat and to reach 
PJeverly centre by an inland route. Of these there are more than one. 

Passing from the town landing, which is at the eastern end of the 
smooth, sandy mile of West's Beach, it is possible to take Hale street 
at its junction with West street a few rods away and follow it in- 
to the heart of Beverly, passing Dr. Holmes' last residence at Beverly 
Farms. It will lead us to the old South Meeting House with its doric 
front and ancient clock,— and Paul Revere bell inscribed " Revere 
and Sons, Boston, 1803,"— and near it across the street is the home of 



I_].6 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM, 

Nathan Dane who sleeps in the cemetery hard by commemorated by 
an inscription from the pen of Judge Story. This point in Beverly 
was made the object of a vigorous cannonade by the blockading Brit- 
ish ship-of-war ''Nautilus"' of twenty guns, in 1775, when she got the 
range of the spire on the old first meeting house and attempted to en- 
force the surrender of an escaping privateersman by making a target 
of the town. Some of the balls are saved. 

It is possible to vary the return ride still further, reaching the " Old 
South '' with little greater expenditure of horse-power and time, if we 
turn to the right at Pride's Crossing Station into a beautiful, wooded 
drive known for centuries as "Commons Lane," but now designated 
as Common street. Reaching the end of this at Boyles street and 
taking a generally western course, there is no difficulty in finding one's 
way to the " Old South" through Cole and Essex streets by the Mont- 
serrat Station, and the distance is not materially increased. This old 
church has furnished one president, Willard, to Harvard College, and 
another president, McKean, to Bowdoin College. From the "Old 
South " home, the visitor has only to follow the street car rails. 

He will pass at least three houses of which he will be glad to know 
something. The first of these, seen on his left, is the City Hall at the 
corner of Thorndike street, a greatly transformed mansion house built 
by Andrew, one of the three famous brothers Cabot, Beverly's great 
merchants of the post-revolutionary era, to whose energy Essex Bridge 
and the first cotton manufactures of America are due. In it, after- 
wards owned by Col. Israel Thorndike, also a most eminent merchant, 
were entertained Gov. Gore on his famous eastern tour in 1809, presi- 
dent Munroe at breakfast July 10, 1817, and Daniel Webster at dinner, 
in August, 1830. 

Passing on the right the birthplace of Andrew Preston Peabody, the 
eminent divine, we come to the mansion of John Cabot on our left, be- 
tween Franklin place and Central street. Here, on the first day of 
September, 1824, when Mr. Cabot had left town and the fine structure 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 147 

was occupied for banking- and insurance purposes, Lafayette was wel- 
comed from its steps by Robert Rantoul in behalf of the town of Bev- 
erly. The house has now come to the most fortunate of uses- Mr. 
Edward Burley, the last proprietor, bequeathed it to the Beverly His- 
torical Society, and it is rapidly filling up with interesting relics and 
valuable pictures. These may be seen at all hours of the day on ap- 
plication at the side door on Central street. Just below it on the other 
side of the street which fitly bears the name of Cabot street, and now 
numbered 104, is the residence of the third and most distinguished of 
these remarkable brothers,— George Cabot,— United States Senator 
and Representative,— offered the first portfolio of the Navy Depart- 
ment by president John Adams,— the chosen biographer of Fisher 
Ames, and the ancestor of Senator Lodge,— president in 1814 of the 
Hartford Convention. He entertained Washington at breakfast in 
this house, October 30, 1789, and thence accompanied his illustrious 
guest to visit, at North Beverly, the first cotton factory in America. 

Manchester. A continuation of the Beverly Farms drive takes one 
into the town of Manchester nine miles from Salem. " The Singing 
Beach," beyond the Masconomo, the largest hotel, is the principal at- 
traction. There are many pretty cottages and villas at Manchester, 
especially on Smith's Point. The Essex County Club is located in the 
northerly portion of the town. Its colonial building and well arranged 
grounds for polo, golf, etc., form one of the finest establishments of 
this sort in New England. In the village, centrally located, is the 
Memorial Library Building, simple in its architecture and solid in its 
construction, while the good old style spire of the meeting-house by 
the Common will attract attention. 

Magnolia is four miles beyond Manchester,— a collection of cottages 
and large hotels of the best class. It is a good terminal point for a 
drive, where dinner or supper may be had, and, after a delightful walk 
over the rocky shore and through fine woods a mile or less to Rafe's 
Chasm and the "Norman's Woe " of the " Wreck of the Hesperus,"' 
an evening drive back cannot fail to be enjoyable. 



148 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Clicbacco Ponds. A delightful drive may be taken through the woods, 
either from Beverly Farms or Manchester, to Chebacco Ponds, in Ham- 
ilton, or direct by the Essex road from Salem. The Chebacco hotels 
furnish opportunity for an excellent dinner or supper, and boats are 
always available for rowing or fishing on the lake. 

Wcnhajn Lake. The City Water Works at Wenham Lake are about 
five miles from Salem. The carriage road from Colon street, Beverly, 
to the reservoir, is open for driving every afternoon in the week. The 
reservoir is on Chipman's Hill, North Beverl}^ and from its borders an 
extended view of the surrounding country and the best view of Salem 
can be obtained. It has a capacity of 20,000,000 gallons. The pump- 
ing station is about a mile from the reservoir, on the borders of the 
lake, which is a beautiful sheet of water, with an area of 320 acres. 
The engines and the interior of the pump house are worthy of inspec- 
tion. I'he City of Beverly has pumps and works of its own, with a 
reservoir on Brimble Hill, easily reached from Montserrat or North 
Beverly through Brimble avenue. From this hill a very extensive view 
may be obtained, quite different from that seen from the Salem reser- 
voir. 

To Wenham, Asbn?'y Grove and Hamilton. A drive of about eight 
miles which may be made in connection with the last. The Methodist 
Camp Grounds are occupied through the summer, the Camp Meeting 
itself being held in August. At Hamilton, the Myopia Club has its 
headquarters, with its hunts, polo and other attractions. 

Route from Satem to Wenhasm Lake, Etc., axd Retuen, Via Daxvees 

— 9 MILES. 
STARTING FROM BEVERLY BRIDGE. 

r. Cabot St. [1]. 

r. Reservoir road, open from 2-6 p. m., from Cahot and Colon Sts., at 
railroad crossing. Salem Reservoir [2]. 

Or leave Cabot St. at Essex, thence via Brimble ave., passing 

Beverly reservoir on r. to Dodge St. [2]. 



'U 







mm' 



f^'LluC] 







DRIVES AND WALKS. Hy 

r. Dodge St. and I. Enon St. to Wenliam Lake [1]. 

Continued Enon St. and Main St. [^| Wenliam meeting house and 

by Arbor St. [H] to Asbury Grove. 

Keturn via Arbor St. [2], or via Wenham Depot and r. Main St. 
r. to Cedar St. [3] to 
I. Cabot St. [1^1. 

Xorth Beverly chiireli. Old Parsonage 1715, Ancient Cemetery. 
/. C(»nant St. [H] 

Folly hill, highest point in the neighborhood. 
/. Liberty St. [|]. 

Spite Bridge. 
I. Water St. [1], Danversport 

View of Orchard Farm and Endicott pear tree. Read Mansion. 
Margin St. [||, Peabody. 
North St. [HI, Salem. 

Peabody. Peabody, the birthplace of George Peabody, the London 
banker, is about two miles from Salem, and the drive embraces many 
points of interest. The town, formerly South Dan vers, was named 
Peabody in honor of the philanthropist in i868. The Peabody In- 
stitute, founded by a bequest of #200,000 from George Peabody, should 
be visited. Here is deposited a portrait of Queen Victoria painted on 
enamel, the colors being burned in, and backed by a sheet of gold. 
The picture was a gift from the Queen to Mr. Peabody in commemora- 
tion of his gift to the poor of London. The Sutton Reference Library, 
in the same building, was founded in 1869 by Mrs. Eliza Sutton, as a 
memorial of her son, Eben Dale Sutton. On Main street, at the in- 
tersection of Washington street, is a granite monument erected in 
memory of the men from this town (then Danvers) who fell in the 
battles of Lexington and Concord, April 19, 1775. A lofty monument 
erected to the memory of the soldiers from Peabody killed during the 
Civil War is located in the Square. 

Danvers. Leaving Salem by North street the drive to Danvers takes 



150 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 



one into an historic locality. A part of what is now Danvers was in- 
cluded in Salem Village in the days of witchcraft. At Danversport is 
the old "Orchard Farm," where Gov. Endicott at one time lived and 
where may still be seen the "Endicott pear tree," claimed to be the 
oldest cultivated fruit tree in New England. From its branches the 
first governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony picked fruit, and it is 
still productive. In this town are the birthplace of Gen. Israel Put- 
nam and the historic Collins house where General Gage established 
his headquarters in ante-Revolutionary days, when he was appointed 
by the King governor of the colony. At " the Centre " is the site of 
Salem Village parsonage, where the witchcraft delusion had its birth. 
Near " West Danvers Junction " is the site of Giles Corey's farm and 
house. The site of the state asylum for the insane on Hathorne Hill 
is a very commanding one, the buildings are extensive and of the most 
approved construction. The cost of the asylum and grounds has been 
about $1,500,000. 

Dana ERS Route— 13 miles. 

CITY HALL, SALEM. 

Washington St. 

Court houses. 
I. Bridge St. 
r. North St. [1|. 

North bridge. Catholic cemetery. 
Danvers line. 
Water St. [11 (continuation of North St.). 

Gardner's hill. From this hill, over which the road passes, one 
may see stretched out before him Danvers, Beverly and Salem. 
The asylum looms up at the left. 
Jacobs' farm. House standing in which George Jacobs lived in 
1692. His grave can also be seen. 
l. Endicott St. [^1. 

Endicott farm and pear tree. Pear tree set out here in 1630. 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 



151 



3;etui{X to: 

/. Water JSt. [|]. 

Danversport R. K. Station, site of the first building erected in 
Tanversport. 
Liberty St. [1]. (continuation of Water St.). 

Liberty bridge, or " Spite "" bridge. 
Junction of Liberty, Eliot (to Folly Hill and Beverly), Burley St. (to 
Putnamville) and Conant St. (to Ipswich). 
Folly Hill. Described by Hawthorne. 

On the top of this hill may be seen the cellar walls of a famous mansion built (1740- 
1745) by the Hon. William Browne, a public spirited citizen of great wealth, whose 
descendants removed to Virginia and inter-married with the Washingtons. It 
contained the finest dancing hall in this region. It was popularly known as 
'• Browne's Folly." The view is unsurpassed. 

/. Conant St. [f |. 

Frost fish brook. From this landing probably the earliest set- 
tlers of Danvers, about 1030, struck inland, having reached this 
point by boat. 

Conant St. [i]. 

Danvers Square, Danvers Historical Society. Berry Tavern. 

The room of the Society is in the bank building up one flight. Here is an interesting 
collection of old china, Revolutionary relics, MSS., etc. There are many 
portraits, among which are those of Dr. Amos Putnam. 1765. or earlier, the poet 
Whittler, Gen. Moses Porter, and A. A. Low, of Brooklyn, a benefactor of the So- 
ciety. The curator is usually at the room, which is open to visitors. 

Elm St. [i]. (continuation of Conant St.). 

Page house. Here Gen. Gage had his office while living at the 
Hooper house in the the summer of 1774. Town hall (junction of 
Holten and Sylvan Sts.). Soldiers" monument, erected to soldiers 
of 1861-5. 
Sylvan St. [i]. (continuation of Elm St.). 

Peabody Institute of Danvers. The present building was erected 
in 1892, the former building having been destroyed by fire. Es- 
tablished by George Peabody of London. 



152 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Pass to Holten St., either by edge of Millpond, or across Institute 
grounds reaching Holten St. by Peabody Ave. 
By the edge of the pond on the northern side of the road stands 
the house long the home of Judge Samuel Putnam. 
r. Holten St. to Cherry. 

Episcopal church, corner of Cherry. 
I. Cherry St. li]. Cross K. E. track. 
I. Maple St. [i]. 

Armory of Danvers Light Infantry organized in 1891. 
r. Locust St. By continuing north on this road and taking the right 
hand roads one may reach Wenham pond and North Beverly (see 
Routes above). 

Corner of Poplar St. the site of an ancient Poi-ter house, after- 
ward occupied by Hon. Timothy Lindall. 
I. Poplar St. 

Lindall Hill. Formerly known as Sharpens and as Porter's hill 
from former owners. 
Maple St. [l\ (continuation of Poplar), 
r. Summer St. |i]. 

Midsworth Cemetery. Here are the graves of Elizabeth, wife 
of Eev. Sam'l Parris, of Witchcraft notoriety; of Parson Wads- 
worth, of the Clarkes, Hobarts, and many of the Putnams. This 
is probably the oldest cemetery in Danvers, and was originally 
the Putnam family cemetery. Birthplace of Hon. James Put- 
nam, last Atty. Gen. of Mass. under the crown, Judge of 
Supreme Court, New Brunswick, "The best lawyer in Ameri- 
ca," said Prest. Adams. Covered well just beyond the 
birthplace of James Putnam in the field to the left is near site 
of home of John Putnam, Sr. Road passes over the site. 
Oak Knoll. Late home of John Clreenleaf Whittier. 
/. Spring Ave. |^]. 

St. John's College (Roman Catholic). House built by Jacob 
Spring, Es(j[., from stone <iuarried in Danvers. Prince or 
Osburn house. Sarah Osburn, widow of Robert Prince, was 
hanged for witchcraft in l(j92. Prince family cemetery near 
railroad in a small grove of oaks to the left. 



T1RIVKS AND WALKS. I 53 

I. Xicliols St. Cconthiuation of Spring: Ave.). 

Ferncroft Station. " P'crncroft Inn " with its anti<ine furnisliings, 

a favorite summer resort, is near 1)y. 
r. Maple St. [4|. 

Corner of Nieliols stands a house built by William, brother of Gen. 
Israel Putnam. Beaver Brook. Col. Jesse Putnam house 0:1 
left (sets back, long buildings shaded by line elms). 
Middleton may be reached by continuing upon this road 2h miles: 
then return by the upper road on the southern side of Asylum 
hill, meeting this route at the corner of IngersoU and Centre 
Sts., Gen. Israel Putnam's birthplace on right. The rear is tlie 
oldest, and in that part Israel Putnam was born. Danvers State 
Lunatic Asylum. View from hill one of the finest in Essex Co. 
Grounds open at all times. Buildings open Wednesdays and 
Saturdays, This hill is rightly styled "Hathorne's Hill," from 
a remote ancester of Xathaniel Hawthorne. 
I. Newbury St. [^-l Newburyport and Boston turnpike. The •■Hal: 

way house'' stood within a few minutes' walk to the northward. 
By turning to the right from Maple street and following the turnpike 
one may reach the Pierce farm in Topsfield, distant 2| miles; or by 
taking the "old Boxford road" which leaves the turnpike on the left, 
reach "Ferncroft." 
/. IngersoU St. [fj. 

Peabody place. Now the residence of Hon. William C. Endicott. 

l. Centre St. 

Training Held on left (see boulder and tablet). Parson Wads- 
worth house on left. Site of Kev. Saml. Parris' house, 1692, on 
left. Meeting house site, of first parish since 1702. 
I. Ilobart St. dV]- 

To site of church iti 101»2, in plowed field just beyond Forest St 

KETURXTO: 

/. Centre St. [i]. 

Judge Holten house, corner of Holten St. FauKuis patriot. 
I. Holten St. [xVl- 

Holten cemetery. Graves of Holten family to right of entrance. 



154 



VISITOR S (;riDK TO SALEM. 

l. C(»llins St. [,^] (continuation of Centre St.). 

Cross R. K. Eebecca Nurse farm, house and monument, also that 
erected to the memory of Nathaniel Putnam and others who 
stood forth in her defence. The grounds are open. Rebecca 
Nurse was executed for witchcraft in 1692. 
Collins St. [|]. 
Collins house, l)uilt by " King- "' Hooper. Headquarters of Gen. 
Gage. Opposite in the tield, was the camp of two companies of 
Leslie's 64rh British Reg., afterwards in the expedition to Lex- 
ington. 
Pine St. [I] (continuation of Collins St.). 
Peabody line. 2 m. from Peabody line to Square, and 4 m. to 

Town House Sipiarc, Salem. 
Andover St. 

Roofers' farm. 
Central St. 
Lowell St. 
Peabody Square. 
Main St. 
Lexington monument. IVabody Institute, founded by George 

Peabody of London. 
Ancient Cemetery, grave of .Tones Very, poet. 
Salem line, follow electric-car track. 

Mtddleton and Danvers ijoriE. — 18 mtles. 

Leaving Danvers Route at Maple St. continue to Middleton, [2^]. 
Town Square. Flint Public Library. 

I. So Main St. [U]. 

I. WestSt. i^|. Cross Ipswich River. 

/•. Dayton St. [1]. Cross turnpike. 

/.. Centre Sts. Join Danvers I'oute at junction of IngersoU and Centre 
streets (page 138). 

Or, leaving Maple street at entrance to asylum grounds, take right 
hand road past gas works, then left hand road through the asylum 
grounds and pass out by the Thomas Putnam house at the corner of 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 155 

Dayton street; by turning to the right Maple street is reached again; 
to the left we come out by the same route as above, but miss the 
town of Micldleton with the pretty drive along and over Ipswich 
river. By turning to the left on reaching West street, the route 
may be reversed. 

7\^ Lynn by the Floatinij; Jh-n/i^^e. On the old Boston turnpike, three 
miles from the city, is a bridge of curious construction. It is about 450 
feet in length, and is built of logs piled across one another with a 
travelled surface of planks laid above them. It floats like a raft on 
the water, and, a few years ago, when a drove of cattle crossed it on a 
hot day, and rushed together to one side to slake their thirst, it listed 
so much under their weight that its construction was well exposed to 
view on the opposite side. The floating bridge, which was built by 
the Turnpike Corporation, crosses "no bottom pond," a swampy hole, 
quite deep, and aft'ording no solid bottom for pile-driving. This drive 
may be extended to the Lynn woods, a forest reservation in the wester- 
ly outskirts of Lynn. This natural park was retained to protect the 
water shed of the ponds and reservoirs of that city's water supply and 
public spirited citizens have increased the original reservation so that 
it is now the largest public forest controlled by any city of this state. 
Or this drive maybe extended through Lynn and the return made to 
Salem by the Swampscott drive previously given. 

Walks about the City. 

]VaIk No. I, from Town House square, through Essex, Union, 
Derby and Turner streets, includes the following points of interest : 

r. First Church, corner of Washington; tablets. 

r. Market House. Town Hall 1817, at Derby Square and Essex (rear). 

r. Peabody Academy of Science, 161 Essex; Museum of natural history 

and ethnology; open from 9 to 5 week days and from 2 to 5 Sun- 

dav afternoons. Free. 



156 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

r. Liberty street to Charter street, r. to Cliarter street burying ground 
and "Dr. Grimshawe" bouse, and /. to Salem Hospital, open Wed- 
nesdays from 2 to 5. Church of the Immaculate Conception (Ro- 
man Catholic) beyond. 
Eeturn to Essex. 

l. Cadet Armory, 136 Essex, 'portraits, banquet hall. Free, upon appli- 
cation to janitor. 

I. Salem Athenaeum, 134 Essex, library. Free, upon application to li- 
brarian. 

I. Essex Institute, 132 Essex; historical museum and library. Free, 
open every day, except Sundays and holidays, from 9 to 5 i;i win- 
ter and until 6 in summer. 
Old First Church, rear of above, free. Api)ly at Essex Institute and 
register name.j 

I. Hawthorne's birthplace, 27 Union street. 

I. Large white poplar, 11 feet in circumference, yard 188 Derby. 

I. Old Ladies' Home, 180 Derby. Admission on Wednesday afternoons 
from 2 to 5. 

/. Custom House, 178 Derby; old maritime records, etc. Free, apply 
to custodian. 

J. Bertram Home for Aged Men, 114 Derby. Admission, Wednesdays 
from 2 to 5. 

r. Turner House, 34 Turner street ("Seven Gables,"' so called). Admis- 
sion, 2) cents. 

r. Bethel of the Salem Marine Society. 
IxETURN by Turner to Essex as in Walk No. 3. 

This walk may be continued from Derby St. to the Willows, or street 
cars may be taken, passing road to Plummer Farm School on /-. (ad- 
mission Wednesdays from 3 to 5). 

IFa/l' M). 2, from Town House square, through Washington, Bridge, 
North, Essex, Boston, Hanson, return to Boston, Federal, Flint. 
fJroad, Summer, Norman to B. & M. station, would include the follow- 
ing points of interest : 




B.F^r+J'P'-'^^'' "f 



V9 



T.mo^Fi^^^^^'n^ 



DRIVES AND WALKS. I $7 

r. City Hall, 93 Wasliington, portraits, old Indian deed, etc. Free, 
open every week day, except holidays and Saturday afternoons. 
Api^ly to the janitor. 

I. Site of Witchcraft Court House (see tablet). 

/. Kare hybrid walnut tree, rear of Odell Block, corner Lynde and 
Washington; 

I. Tabernacle Church (Orthodox), next 52 Washington. 

I. Court Houses, corner Federal, old records, witchcraft documents, 
witch pins, etc. Free, closed holidays and Saturday afternoons. 

r. North Bridge, Leslie's retreat (see tablet). 
Return on North to Essex. 

I. Wesley Church (Methodist Episcopal), 10 North. 

r. Roger Williams or Witch House, Essex, corner North. Free, apply 
at premises. 

r. Southern Catalpa tree in^yard of Witch House. 

r. North Church (Unitarian), next 314 Essex. 

I. Shattuck House (witchcraft times), 317 Essex. 

I. Spire of South Church on Chestnut, seen from Cambridge and 
Essex. 

r. Fine sugar maple tree on estate 318 Essex. 

I. Swedenborgian Church, 339 Essex. 

r. Public Library, 370 Essex. Free; those especially interested in 
library work should apply to librarian'if desirous of visiting work 
rooms. 

r. Bertram Elm, in Public Library grounds, seventy-seven years old, 
trunk 14^ feet in circumference. 

I. Grace Church (Episcopal), 381 Essex. 

/. Old Buttonwood trees, at 393 Essex, 10 feet in circumference. 

The old road to Boston passed west of Norman's Rocks, the ledge 
which rises abruptly at the entrance of Highland Ave., at the head 
of Essex St. and west of Boston St., until a bridge was built in 1640 
on the present line of the last named street over a little tidal 
stream at a point where the Hose house now stands at the corner 
of Goodhue St., and which was called the Town Bridge. An old 
mile stone which marked the Salem and Danvers boundary at the 



158 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Big Tree and previously in front of the tavern at the crest of the I 
liill on Boston St. and which hears the inscription "S(alem) June j 
Ye 11 1707'' and also indicating that Salem was one mile and Bos- \ 
ton fourteen miles distant, may now be seen in the grounds of the i 
Peabody Academy, it having been removed from its old resting l 
place a few years ago and laid aside as useless. { 

I. Gallows Hill, from Boston street, head of Hanson. Here nineteen ] 

persons were hanged for witchcraft. Xever were any burned. ; 

Retubn to Boston street. | 

I. St. James Church (Roman C^atholic), Federal, spire 207 feet high. 

r. Bowditch school (boys and girls, grammar), 35 Flint. ■ 

I. Arch of elm trees looking down Chestnut street from 25 Flint. j 

r. English yew tree, on bank by house 31 Broad, corner of Hathorne, i 
planted in 1848. | 

r. Southern bald cypress tree fifty years old in yard 27 Broad. ; 

r. Broad Street Cemetery, first used 1655. Ancient stones and some in- ! 
teresting trees. Graves of Timothy Pickering, Caroline Plummer, 
Gen. F. W. Lander, Gen. H. K. Oliver. 

I. Birthplace of Timothy Pickering, 18 Broad street, house built 1651 . 

r. High school; next, Oliver (primary) school; next, State Xormal 
school. Admission to last on api)lication to principal. City 
schools, apply at buildings. 

I. Horsechestnut tree, yard of "The Studio,"' corner Chestnut and Sum- 
mer, eighty years old, 9^ feet in circumference. 

r. Cranch House, visited by President .John Adams, near corner of 
Mill St. 

JVa/k A^o. 3, from Town House square, through Washington, Church, 
St. Peter, Bridge to the "Essex Bridge," return on Bridge, through 
Winter, Washington square (east side), Essex, would pass the follow- 
ing points : 

r. City Hall. ) 

I. Site of witchcraft trials. I ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^- ^- 

I. Fire department headquarters, 30 Church. Free, apply to custodian. 



DRIVES AND WALKS. I59 

/. Fine honey locust tree at No. 10 Church. 

r. St. Peter's Church, foot of Church, (see grave stones). 

r. Central Baptist Church, St. Peter St., opposite Federal. 

I. Site of witchcraft jail, No. 4 Federal, near St. Peter. 

r. Old John Ward house, built in 1684. 

r. County Jail, corner Bridge and St. Peter. Admission upon applica- 
tion to custodian. 

r. Howard Street Cemetery, corner Bridge and Howard. Austrian pine 
in cemetery near street. 

r. Fine horsechestnut tree, corner Bridge and Pleasant. 

r. Fruit-bearing English walnut tree, 70 years old, in yard 109 Bridge. 

I. Trap dike rock, site of Winthrop's landing, 1630, west side of Essex 
Bridge near Salem end. 

Essex Bridge. Views of harbor and Dauvers river; many yachts are 
wintered here between the bridges. Good collecting ground for 
marine animals. 
PtETURN on Bridge to Winter street. 

r. Dutch elm at 14 Winter. 

Washington square contains many fine elms, American ashes and some 
young maples. The towers of the East Church (Unitarian) west- 
ern side of square. Many brick residences, period 1818. 

I. Narbonne House, built before 1680, 71 Essex. 

r. Phillips school house, next No. 82 Essex. 

I. Calvary Baptist Church, corner Essex and Herbert. 

r. Franklin Building, corner Essex and Washington square. 

r. Essex Institute. 

I. Peabody Academy of Science. 
Walk No. 4, from Town House square, through Washington and La- 
fayette streets, Clifton and Summit avenues, Leach, Lafayette, Pea- 
body, L^nion and Essex streets, passes the following points : 

r. Post Office, 188 Washington street. 

r. Boston and Maine R. E. Station, Norman and Washington streets. 

/. District Court rooms, 19o Washington. 

I. Steam fire engine house, Washington and Lafayette streets. 



[ See Walk No. I 



l6o VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

I. City Orphan Asylum (Sisters of Charity), 215 Lafayette. Admission 

on application to the Sisters in charge. 
Fine American elms on both sides of upper Lafayette street, planted by 

E. H. Derby in 1808. 
r. English elm, inside fence of estate opposite Clifton avenue; and ten 

rods west of it. in field, southern bald cypress, 100 years old, 

trunk eleven feet in circumference. 
New State Normal School building beyond. 

English oaks on both sides of Clifton avenue and red oaks on hill at /•. 
(Continuing on Clifton avenue leads to Batchelder's Point, fine view of 

harbor; bitter-nut hickories, oaks, etc., grow here. 
White maples on both sides of Summit avenue. 
r. Bertram school house, corner Summit and Willow avenues. 

Keturn on Lafayette street. 

r. St. Joseph's Church and Schools (Roman Catholic, French), 111 
Lafayette, schools on Harbor St. 

r. Methodist Episcopal Church, corner Harbor and Lafayette. 

I. Electric Lighting Co. works, 25 Peabody street. Admission on ap- 
plication to superintendent. 

/'. Naumkeag Steam Cotton Co., foot of Peabody street. Apply for 
special information at ofhce. 

r. Hawthorne's birthplace, 27 Union street, etc. See Walk No. 1. 

IVa/k Niunber 5, from Town House Square through Washington, 
Bridge, North, Orne, Felt, Dearborn, North, Essex to Town House 
Square. (Street cars may be taken from North and Orne to return.) 

City Hall, Court Houses, etc., as in Walk Number 2. 
North Bridge: " Leslie's retreat." 
T. Tablet. 

I. Upham school house (opposite Osborne St). 
I. Advent Church, 127 North St. 
r. View through Dearborn St., fine elms, 
r. Fire Department building, 142 North St. 



DRIVKS AM) WALKS. j6i 

I. Greenlawii ccnit'teiy on Ornc St. S.>l(liers inniuniieiit; Dickson Me- 
morial Chapel. 

Beyond the cenieteiy, reached l)y Liberty Hill avenue or Sarj^ent St. 
are Liberty Hill, Cold Spring, and Kernwood (private grounds). 

On Felt St. and Dearborn St. are several species of oaks, maples, ashes, 
conifers, etc. 

I. Residence of Hawthorne in ISSi), No. 20 Dearborn St., formerly on 
the opposite side of the street. 

Harmony Grove (rear entrance) may be reached through School and 
Tremont Sts., returning (main entrance) through Grove and 
Mason Sts. to North, or through Flint from Mason to Essex St. 

To the private houses mentioned in this (luide the visitini; public can 
not, of course, expect to obtain admission, and they are not therefore 
enumerated in the above '' walks.'' Many quaint houses will be passed, 
however, singly and in groups, and on many of the side streets may 
still be found houses that are interesting by reason of the door head 
with a bit of Macintire carving, or some simple architectural adorn- 
ment, a reminder of the last century. 



CHAPTER XI. 

J [(17(1 til 01- nc in Sal cm. 

\7^ISIT()RS to Salem are generally desirous of viewing all places 
[ in any way associated with the life and literary work of 
Nathaniel Hawthorne, and for their benefit the compilers of the Guide 
have prepared this chapter with the hope that it may assist the admir- 
ers of the great romancer in their search. A brief outline is given, to 
begin with, of the periods of Hawthorne's stay in various places, and 
this is followed by fuller references to the principal points of interest 
connected with his life in Salem, the houses in which he resided while 
here and the scenes depicted in his works. Of course this list could 
be extended by references to his " American Note Books," but as these 
notes speak for themselves that is thought to be unnecessary. The 
places described by Hawthorne in his stories and sketches are often 
glorified by the wealth of his vivid imagination and this his readers 
should always keep in mind when looking upon the bare reality of the 
scenes which suggested his fancies. A few references to such places are 
given here, and one can hardly make a more pleasant pilgrimage or pay 
a more fitting tribute to this favorite writer, than by spending a half- 
hour, book in hand, reading one of his beautiful sketches, upon the 
very spot where Hawthorne himself stood when the inspiration seized 
him to write it. 

Thoughtless critics who, perhaps, have themselves but recently dis- 
covered Hawthorne, often condemn Salem for not appreciating its 
native author sooner. But why should Salem have seen what no one 
else saw? Hawthorne left Salem, finally, in 1850, before the publica- 
(162) 






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>Mt noust or 

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The Hou?^ " ^ GABLes " 
THE- ^^^ 



HAWTHORNE IN SALKM. 163 

tion of the "Scarlet Letter;" he was retiring in disposition to the 
point of sh3mess, and objected to being lionized and avoided social 
attentions. He had nearly always written anonymously and was com- 
paratively unknown to the world. Hawthorne himself writes, in 1840, 
upon receiving an invitation to a party, '' Why will not people let poor 
persecuted me alone ?" and a casual glance at the portions of Julian 
Hawthorne's " Nathaniel Hawthorne and his Wife," referred to in the 
index of that work under " society," "shyness," "seclusion," etc., will 
show that it was Hawthorne and not Salem that was at fault, if any 
fault there was. This love of seclusion was a family trait and Haw- 
thorne's life was surrounded by its influences,— the grieving widowed 
mother and the shrinking sister,— and the wonder is that the effect was 
not seriously injurious to that life. Our distinguished citizen, the late 
Dr. George B. Loring, himself connected by marriage with the family 
of Hawthorne's wife, writing on the treatment of Hawthorne by Salem, 
in a letter to be found,— and well worth careful perusal,— in Conway's 
"Life of Hawthorne" (page 116), says in opening:— " Salem did not 
' treat its illustrious son ' at all, because he gave it no opportunity. 
He was a recluse there always-" 

Many of Hawthorne's writings have caused much personal ill-feel- 
ing and great dissensions. Like Daudet, in Paris, he has freely used 
in his writings, and with little disguise, persons and places, and has 
held their characteristics fully up to the light, emphasized at every 
point ; and, like that eminent French author, he has brought maledic- 
tions down upon his own head by this course. It matters little 
whether these things were done from thoughtlessness or with spite. 
It is not the province of this Guide to recall unpleasant memories in 
this connection and, purposely, all reference to personal matters are 
here omitted ; and it is hoped, therefore, that this chapter may lead 
only to points of interest and ways of pleasure. 

Periods of Residence. Nathaniel Hawthorne was born in the house 
now numbered 27 Union street, Salem, July 4, 1804. In 1808 his wid- 



164 visitor's CxUIDE to SALEM. 

owed mother with her children removed to a house in the rear of this, 
but facing Herbert street, now a tenement house numbered 10 1-2 and 
12. He lived here until 1818, then at Raymond, Maine, for a short 
time, returning to the Herbert street house in 1819-20. He was at 
Bowdoin College, 1821 to 1825, and it was at about this last date that 
the zv first appeared in his name. He was after this at the Herbert 
street house a short time, then from 1828-32, in a house on Dearborn 
street, now removed to a site opposite the spot upon which it originally 
stood and numbered 26. He was in the Herbert street house in 1838, and 
again for short periods in 1840 and 1846. In 1839 and 1840 he was in 
the Boston Custom House and resided in Boston. In 1841 he was at 
Brook Farm. He married Sophia Amelia Peabody in Boston, July 9, 
1842, and went to live at the "Old Manse," Concord, Mass., where 
their eldest daughter, Una, was born. He came back to Salem in the 
fall of 1845, was appointed surveyor of the port of Salem and Beverly 
in 1846, and his son Julian was born in Boston during that year. 
While serving at the Salem Custom House he lived first in the old 
homestead in Herbert street, then in the house number 18 Chestnut 
street, and finally in the house number 14 Mall st. He lost the Cus- 
tom House position in 1849, and was in Lenox in 1850-51, where his 
younger daughter. Rose, now Mrs. Lathrop, was born. He lived in 
West Newton, where the " Blithedale Romance " was written, in 185 1- 
52, and settled in his last American home, the " Wayside," in Concord, 
in 1852. He became American consul at Liverpool in 1853, and 
retained that office until 1857. He then travelled in Italy, rested in 
Rome and Florence, and returning to England, completed the 
"Marble Faun" there in 1859. In July, i860, he returned to the 
" Wayside " to pass the last few years of his life. He died quietly in 
his sleep during the night of May 18, 1864, at the Pemigewasset House 
at Plymouth, N. H., while travelling for his health with his old friend 
and class mate ex-President Franklin Pierce and was buried in 
" Sleepy Hollow," Concord, Mass. 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. 165 

The Birth-place. Hawthorne was born in the northwest chamber in 
the second story of the gambrel-roofed house now numbered 27, on the 
eastern side of Union street. The house was built prior to the time 
of the witchcraft delusion by one of several persons who have 
borne the name of Benjamin Pickman in Salem. It came into the 
possession of the grandfather of Hawthorne in 1772, and with the ex- 
ception of a modern front door, with long glass panels, and modern 
windows, the house is in about the same condition as when the great 
author was born. An iron crane from one of the open fireplaces of 
this house is preserved at the Essex Institute : the very one, perhaps, 
that swung over the hre, and served to suspend the pots and kettles 
from which the family table was spread, on that eventful morning 
when the wonderful dark eyes first opened to the light. In 1808, how- 
ever, Hawthorne's father died at Surinam, while on a voyage in com- 
mand of the " Nabby," and the family removed to the 

Herbei't Street House (now numbered io| and 12), then owned by 
Hawthorne's maternal grandfather, Richard Manning. This house 
was built about 1790; it faced on Herbert street, although the lands of 
the two estates joined in the rear. It is stated in Airs. Elizabeth Man- 
ning's interesting and valuable historical article on " The Boyhood of 
Hawthorne " in the "Wide Awake" for November, 1891, that Haw- 
thorne's "room was in the southwest corner of the third story, over- 
looking his birth-place," and that "he scratched his name with a dia- 
mond " on a pane of glass in one of its windows. This pane of glass is 
now sacredly preserved by the family. This scratching of his name 
seems to have been a habit with him. He scratched it with his thumb 
nail on the lid of the Custom House desk now at the Institute. 

It is the chamber in this Herbert street house which is referred to, 
and not the one in the Union street house, as stated by the editor of 
his " American Notes," p. 21 (1836), in the sentence :— " In this dismal 
chamber FAME was won," and again in the frequently quoted letter 
written October 4, 1840 :— '' Here I sit in my old accustomed chamber 



i66 visitor's guide to salem. 

where I used to sit in days gone by. Here I have written many tales. 
. . . Should 1 have a biographer he ought to make great mention 
of this chamber in my memoirs, because so much of my lonely youth 
was wasted here," etc. This chamber is again referred to in American 
Notes 2 (p. 113, 1843), but pilgrims do not come here " to pay their 
tribute " of reverence nor " put off their shoes at the threshold for fear 
of desecrating the tattered old carpets." The birthplace however re- 
ceives the tribute from visitors. It was while a boy, in this house, that 
Hawthorne used to play in the delapidated old wrecks of stage coaches 
which belonged to his uncle Manning's stage company, whose stables 
at the time were near by on Union street. Hawthorne lived in the 
Herbert street house at various times while a boy and young man, and 
twice for brief periods later, the last times being when the letter last 
quoted was written, between his service at the Boston Custom House 
and his Brook farm life, and in 1845-46, just before taking the position 
of surveyor in the Salem Custom House. 

From 1828-32 he lived with his mother in a house which was built for 
Madam Hathorne by her brother on land adjoining the present Man- 
ning homestead on Dearborn street. It was sold, however, afterward 
and moved to the opposite side of the street, where as number 26 it 
may be seen today, somewhat changed. But Hawthorne was ever re- 
turning, again and again, to the old Herbert street home, so that in all 
he passed more of his days here than in any other house during his 
life ; this house, therefore, was more than any other his real home, for 
in the words of his own son and biographer (" Hawthorne and His 
Wife,'' Vol. I, p. 429), " In fact after freeing himself from Salem, Haw- 
thorne never found any permanent rest anywhere." When young, 
Hawthorne received an injury to his foot which compelled him to re- 
main quietly at home. At this time the famous lexicographer, J. E. 
Worcester, kept a school in Salem which Hawthorne attended, and 
during the time of this injury Mr. Worcester went frequently to the 
Herbert street house to teach his lame pupil. The residence in Ray- 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. 167 

mond, Maine, followed, but in 1819 Hawthorne returned to Salem. 
He prepared for Bowdoin College under the care of the Salem lawyer, 
B. Lynde Oliver, Esq., and entered that institution in 1821, graduating 
in 1825, at about which time he appears to have inserted the w in his 
name, his ancestors having written it Hathorne. It was during this 
and the next period of his life, closing in 1838. that he acted as a clerk 
for the stage company, which the Mannings largely owned, travelled 
'"about in the stages, wrote stories and finally, anonymously, published 
" Fanshawe " and the first volume of " Twice Told Tales." This house 
is, therefore, associated with nearly all the important events of Haw- 
thorne's early life, and it is to be regretted that it should not be pre- 
served otherwise than for its present use as a tenement house. 

During his life in the Manning house on Herbert street, Hawthorne 
was very intimate in the family of a kinsman and neighbor who occupied 
the spacious colonial residence, with a garden of the old-fashioned sort 
at its rear, at the foot of the same street. Here he had a chamber de- 
voted to himself and, as he liked, he remained at the house and ate or 
slept there. He wrote much in this chamber and in a still more favor- 
ite place, the old garden, where he often sat musing and writing near a 
quaint little summer house and beneath the shade of an old apple 
tree. It is probable that some of his earlier stories were written at 
this house or under the tree in its garden. 

It was during this period that Hawthorne made a haunt of the old 
Essex Historical Chambers, then over the Salem Bank in Pickman 
Place. In the American Note Books, under date of August 22-27, 
1837, he enters an account of the pictures which interested him then 
hanging there. With the exception of the Oliver portraits all the pic- 
tures he refers to are now in possession of the Essex Institute, and 
amongst them is one, a picture of Oomwell, which has an extraordinary 
story. It came, in 1821, in its present frame, from Ipswich where it had 
been owned since the days of the Lord Protector. In a friend's album, 
November 10, 1837, three months after the entry in the Note Book, 



i68 visitor's CxUIde to salem. 

Hawthorne wrote an account of the same pictures. It has never be- 
fore been printed, and it is curious to note the changes his forms of 
expression underwent in reproducing the statement. This is the entry 
in the album :— 

OLD PICTURES, ETC. 

In the Cabinet of the Essex Historical Society are many old por- 
traits; and among them that of Governor Leverett — a dark, mu? 
tachioed, Spanish looking visage. Round the waist is a broad sword- 
belt, fastened with a massive buckle, and sustaining a steel-hilted 
sword. This is a very striking picture. There is like-wise a full-length 
portrait of Sir William Peperell, in coat, waistcoat, and breeches, all of 
scarlet broadcloth ; he holds a general's truncheon in his right hand, 
and points his left towards the army of New-Englanders, before the 
walls of Louisburg. A bomb is represented as falling through the air 
— it has certainly been a long time in its descent. There are pictures 
of Endicott, and other Puritanical worthies, most of whom wear skull- 
caps — a fashion which gives to the features a harsh and crabbed 
austerity, very characteristic of the men and of the age. There are 
also half a dozen or more of portraits of the Oliver family, dressed in 
brown, crimson, or claret-colored coats, and immense waistcoats, 
descending almost to the knees, and gorgeously gold-embroidered ; 
the waistcoat was much the most conspicuous article of a gentleman's 
attire, a hundred years ago. In the portraits of the ladies, the painter 
seems to have bestowed the chief of his skill upon the elaborate lace- 
ruffles of the sleeves ; in one picture, the painting of these ruffles alone 
cost an extra five guineas. While these pictures were hanging on the 
walls of the old-mansion house, Peter Oliver, who was insane, used to 
fight with them; and some of their figures still show the cuts and 
slashes inflicted by their unnatural descendant. Among numerous 
curiosities are Governor Leverett's gloves, pretty much resembling a 
pair of modern manufacture, except, that the wrists are ornamented 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. 169 

with a broad and heavy band of silver embroider}'. There is also the 
baby-linen and cradle-furniture of Governor Bradford of Plymouth 
Province, who has lain in his coffin and his shroud for nearly two 
centuries. There are several antique wine-glasses, with tall stocks, 
and a broad-bottomed black glass bottle, stamped with the name of 
Philip English,— the rich old merchant of Salem, who was suspected 
with dealing with the devil. One of the queerest objects in the col- 
lection is the grizzled wig of an ancient clergyman ; it made me feel 
just as if a portion of the old gentleman's personal self had been 
preserved. 

Nov. 10, 1837. 

The Chestnut Street House. Little interest attaches itself to the 
house number i8 Chestnut street, which was taken temporarily by the 
Hawthornes in 1846. His son Julian was born in Boston in June of 
that year and the "Old Manse" had been given up in 1845. Haw- 
thorne became surveyor of the port of Salem in 1846, and this house, 
occupied in all about sixteen months, seems to have little of his liter- 
ary work connected with it. April 23, 1847, Mrs. Hawthorne wrote 
while in this house : — "We may have to stay here during the summer 
after all. Birds do visit our trees in Chestnut street and Una talks in- 
cessantly about flowers and fields." This house has been considerably 
altered since Hawthorne lived in it. While living here, to avoid 
callers whom he did not wish to see, Hawthorne would often slip out 
of the back door which opened on the little court running from Chest- 
nut to Essex street, and go into the house of his friend and neighbor, 
Dr. B. F. Browne, and there remain until the visitor had departed. 

The MaU Street House, The family moved to the house number 14 
Mall street in September, 1847. The quiet " study " Hawthorne was to 
have to himself and which made this house so desirable was the front 
room in the third story. Here the volume entitled, " The Snow Image " 
was prepared and "The Scarlet Letter" written. A picture of the Mall 
street house, with a " Snow Image " in the yard before it, appeared in 



170 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

one of the earlier editions of that work. It was a house out of which 
the Hawthornes expected much joy, but reaped, instead, sadness and 
financial distress, although lasting literary fame and public recognition 
were achieved there. The Custom House appointment was in March^ 
1846, and he remained in office until June, 1849, when he writes " I am 
turned out of office." It was to this house he went home to tell the seri- 
ous news to his wife. It was here, upon learning it, that she said "Very 
well, now you can write your romance," and it was here, that this pru- 
dent wife, at the same time, and in answer to Hawthorne's query as to 
how they should live meanwhile, opened the bureau drawer and 
showed him the gold she had saved from the portion of his salary 
which, from time to time, he had placed in her hands. The romance 
written was the "Scarlet Letter." It was written under extraordinary 
pressure, for dismissal from ofiice and pecuniary distress. Madam 
Hawthorne's death, July 31, 1849, and severe personal illness afificted 
the author "midway in its composition." With a knowledge of these 
facts one can hardly look upon this house without a feeling of pity. 
It has been but slightly changed since Hawthorne left it, in 1850, to 
reside in Lenox. It was in this modest house, in a chamber over the 
sitting room, that Fields found Hawthorne, despondent and hovering 
near the stove, and had the interesting conversation with him given in 
Fields "Yesterdays with Authors" (p. 49) which ended after great re- 
luctance and repeated refusals in Hawthorne giving Plelds the manu- 
script of the "Scarlet Letter" and its immediate publication. 

The Charter Street House. During the days of Hawthorne's court- 
ship, his future wife resided in the large house number 53 Charter 
street adjoining, on its eastern and southern bounds, the ''Burying 
Point," the oldest cemetery in Salem. Hawthorne was not married in 
this house, as many persons suppose, but at 13 West street, in pjoston, 
at the time the residence of Dr. Peabody. The Charter street house 
stands there to-day practically unchanged. Mrs. Hawthorne, then 
Sophia Amelia Peabody, the daughter of Dr. Nathaniel Peabody, was 



HAWTHORNE KV SALEM, I7I 

born September 21, 1809, in a house on Summer street, Salem (so says 
her sister, Miss Elizabeth Peabody in a private letter), but in 1812 the 
family removed to one of the houses of the large brick block on Union 
street, extending from Essex, curiously enough but a stone's throw 
from the birthplace of Hawthorne. Being neighbors, the children of 
the two families played together while the Hawthornes lived in the 
Herbert street house, but saw little of each other after 1816 until they 
met again as old friends in the Charter street house in 1838. It is 
singular that Hawthorne, who must have had most delightful associa- 
tions connected with this house, should have recalled its situation in 
the unpleasant and imperfect " Dolliver Romance" and in its still 
more disagreeable presentment in ''Dr. Grimshawe's Secret." Yet, 
there it surely is, for it is described in the first chapter of that story as 
•'cornered on a graveyard, with which the house communicated by a 
back door," while the house itself was : " a three story wooden house, 
perhaps a century old, low-studded, with a square front standing right 
upon the street, and a small enclosed porch, containing the main en- 
trance, affording a glimpse up and down the street through an oval 
window on each side." Hawthorne evidently roamed in the old 
Charter street cemetery for, besides incidental mention of it here and 
elsewhere in his works, there is an interesting note of his (American 
Note Books, i, p. no), describing a visit to the place as follows: — "In 
the old burial-ground. Charter street, a slate gravestone, carved around 
the borders, to the memory of 'Col. John Hathorne, Esq.,' who died 
in 17 1 7. This was the witch-judge. The stone is sunk deep into the 
earth, and leans forward, and the grass grows very long around it; and 
on account of the moss, it was rather difficult to make out the date. 
. . . In a corner of the burial-ground close under Dr. P 's gar- 
den fence, are the most ancient stones remaining in the grave-yard. 
One to 'Dr John Swinnerton, Physician' in 1688 . . . of Nathaniel 
Mather, the younger brother of Cotton and mentioned in the Magna- 
lia as a hard student and of great promise. ' An aged man at nineteen 



172 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

years," saith the gravestone. It affected me deeply when I cleaned 
away the grass from the half buried stone and read the name. . . . 

It gives strange ideas, to think how convenient to Dr. P 's family 

this burial ground is, the monuments standing almost within arm's 
reach of the side wdndows of the parlor, and there being a little gate 
from the back yard through which we step forth upon these old graves 
aforesaid." The name of Dr. Swinnerton appears in the " Seven 
Gables" and, again, as the ancient apothecary, with the sign of "the 
brazen serpent," in the " Dolliver Romance" and the name of his 
ancestor Hathorne he has used as freely. The last quotation from the 
"Notes " is almost reproduced in " Dr. Grimshawe's Secret" and both 
house and graveyard are to-day precisely as described fifty odd years 
ago, save perhaps the new fence which has taken the place of the old 
one with the gate which seems to have disappeared. 

House of the Sc7>cn Gables. Inquiries are frequently made for the 
"House of the Seven Gables," a general belief existing th^t Haw- 
thorne described some particular house which was standing in its 
declining age when he wrote the fascinating tale with that title. It 
would be very pleasant to direct admirers of the great writer to such a 
house, but as a matter of fact no such house as he described exists or 
ever has existed. This has been definitely settled by the positive 
statement of Hawthorne himself. Yet a house on Turner street is 
quite often referred to as "The House of the Seven Gables." It was 
for many years in the Ingersoll family, relatives of the Hawthornes, 
and Hawthorne was a frequent visitor there. It is said, on one of 
these visits. Miss Susan Ingersoll told him that the house once had 
seven gables and, taking him to the attic, she showed him the beams 
and mortises to prove the statement. Coming down the stairs Haw- 
thorne is said to have repeated, half aloud, " House of the Seven 
Gables, House of the Seven Gables,— that sounds well," and some 
time after, the romance bearing this name appeared. That the name 
had come to Hawthorne's mind, and the romance had already taken 



HAW'llfoRNE IN SALEM. 1 73; 

shape before the name had been fully decided upon, are shown by a 
reference to the matter in a letter to a friend written by Hawthorne 
just before the publication of the work, where he says: "I am be- 
<j^innino^ to puzzle myself about a title to the book. The scene of it is 
in one of the old projecting storied houses familiar to me in Salem 
. . . I think of such titles as 'The House of Seven Gables,' there 
being that number of gable ends to the old shanty ; or ' Seven Gabled 
House,' or, simply, 'The Seven Gables.'" The name of the story 
which was then about finished, as here indicated, might easily have 
been suggested by the visit to Miss IngersoU in the Turner street 
house ; but, the house did not have seven gables in Hawthorne's day 
if it ever did, and the idea must, therefore, have been suggested to him 
in some other way than by the house itself. Thus the romancer, while 
describing features which never existed in the Turner street house 
(amongst them, a rough-cast ornament over the door which he un- 
doubtedly took from the specimen found in the rooms of the Histori- 
cal Society, now preserved in the Institute) at the same time omits, in 
a most significant manner, all allusion to some of the most salient 
features of the Turner street house itself, where he had sat in many a 
summer twilight in the sea-washed garden with his kinswoman. Miss 
IngersoU, and had seen the ships' lights swinging lazily within hail in 
the inner harbor, and had heard the salt waves ripple almost amongst 
the tree roots and the flower beds of the ancient homestead. 

The Eastern Land Claim \vhich figures largely in this story was an 
actual claim existing in the author's family, and may be traced in the 
Registry of Deeds in Salem. It purported to vest, as late as 1765, in 
the heirs of John Hathorn, merchant, Esquire, a " considerable tract 
lying between Dammariscotta and Sheep's Cutt Rivers, by the inley 
Winnegance and the sea," to the head of north west passage, "which 
makes about a Triangle/' seven miles be it more or less, "together 
with all the Lands, Islands, and Isletts, Meadowes, and Harbors, 
Marshes, Housing, Fencings, Orchards, Gardens, Creeks, Coves and 



174 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 



Rivers, con(per)taining unto the same," with full rights to possess and 
enjoy forever the said " considerable parcel," and is computed to be 
about 9000 acres, as by deed from Robin Hood, an Indian Sagamore, 
recorded June 16, 1666. 

A story is told of another visit of Hawthorne's to the Turner street 
house which connects it in an interesting way with the romance. A 
friend of Hawthorne's, an adopted son of Miss Ingersoll's, who lived in 
the house at the time, was one day asleep in his chair in the south 
parlor, in such a position that he could be seen through an entryway 
and another room, 1:)y a person passing in the street glancing in at one 
of the low windows. Seeing him in this way, as he came to the house, 
thinking of other things, Hawthorne was at first startled by his friend's 
appearance in the half shadow and cross-lights. To re-assure himself, 
Hawthorne tapped on the window and waked the sleeper, and then 
rushing into the house he exclaimed: "Good Heavens! Horace, I 
thought you were dead." The connection of this episode with the 
picture of the dead judge sitting in his chair in the parlor of the 
" House of the Seven Gables " is evident. 

The house which stood at the corner of Essex and North streets 
known as the " Deliverence Parkman House," preserved to us in an 
attractive sketch to be seen at the Essex Institute, and referred to in 
Hawthorne's American Notes (i,p. 201) as a house "wherein one of 
the ancestors of the present occupants used to practice alchemy," is 
woven into the story of " Peter Goldthwait's Treasure," which first 
appears in "The Token" of 1838 and was re-printed in the "Twice 
Told Tales." A greater interest is attached to this story, however, for 
in it the frame, so to speak, of the "House of the Seven Gables" 
seems first to have been constructed. Peter Goldthwait's house was 
" one of those rusty, moss-grown, many-peaked wooden houses, which 
are scattered about the streets of our elder towns, with a beetle-browed 
second story projecting over the foundation, as if it frowned at the 
novelty around it." There was an early Peter who had made a 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. 



175 



mysterious fortune, supposed to be hidden somewhere in the house,— 
"one report intimating that the ancient Peter had made the gold by 
alchemy." To find the treasure Peter tears out the inside of his house, 
finding in one room, in a concealed "closet or cupboard on one side 
of the fireplace, a dusty piece of parchment " telling the amount of the 
supposed treasure and its hiding place. Finally the treasure chest is 
found secreted in a closet by the kitchen chimney; but it contains 
nothing but worthless paper money of the Colonial days. The close 
resemblance of this story to the " Seven Gables," where it is more 
highly elaborated, is at once apparent and again shows clearly that 
Hawthorne evolved the house in that romance from many of these old 
Salem houses and that among others the "Deliverence Parkman " 
house on Essex street was certainly one of them. 

There were many gabled houses, notably the Philip English house, 
standing in Hawthorne's day, but all, save the rejuvenated Pickering 
mansion, have disappeared. One at the corner of Washington and 
Lynde streets, taken down in 1863, was the most picturesque of any 
which remained long enough to be preserved by photography. Al- 
though the visitor must give up the real house, the old elm tree, the 
shop, Clifford's chamber, the arched window and the secret closet be- 
hind the portrait, and understand that the house in the romance is a 
commingling of many gabled houses in Salem, with large additions 
from his own fertile brain, and had no existence out of Hawthorne's 
fancy, still the author's life is so closely associated with the Turner 
street house that a visit to it will be of interest. The " Tales of a 
Grandfather's Chair" are said to have had their origin in this old 
house also. On one of his visits here while he was sitting in a de- 
jected state in one of the window seats of the parlor, Hawthorne was 
complaining that he had written out and could think of nothing more. 
Turning to him, and pointing to an old arm chair that had long been in 
the family, Miss IngersoU said, " Nat ! Why don't you write about this 
old chair.? There must be many stories connected with it." From 



176 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

this incident the little volume published in 1841 is said to have come. 
This chair is now preserved in the collections of a well known Salem 
antiquary. 

The house was built about 1662, and, until a few years ago, had in its 
centre a huge chimney which when taken down disgorged an old 
psalter and a "pine tree " sixpence. It is the last dwelling house on 
the western side of the street, and the Bethel of the Marine Society 
has been built in its garden. There are, however, so many references 
in the story to real places, as the Post Office, then in the East India 
Marine building, and the Insurance Office, in the same region, men- 
tioned in the chapter entitled " The Flight of Two Owls," that it is not 
surprising the mythical is mistaken for the real by unsuspecting readers. 
It was Mr. Horace Ingersoll, Miss Susan IngersoU's adopted son, who 
told Hawthorne the story of the Acadians (Am. Note Books, i, p. 203. 
1839), and which, given by Hawthorne to Longfellow, appeared in the 
now classic poem of " Evangeline.'' This may be added to the other 
interesting associations connected with the Turner street house. Mr, 
IngersoU's name, before his adoption, was Horace L. Conolly. He 
died in 1894. An account of his and Hawthorne's connection with the 
poem of Evangeline will be found detailed in the second volume of 
the Life of Longfellow, at pages 60, 70, 98-9, and elsewhere. 

The Custom House. Derby street, opposite Derby wharf. This 
building is fully described and its interesting historical associations 
are given in another chapter (see Public Buildings). Hawthorne was 
made surveyor in 1846 and occupied the southwestern front room on 
the lower floor. The stencil with which he marked inspected goods 
" N. Hawthorne " is still shown by his courteous successor in office, 
but the desk at which he wrote will be found at the Essex Institute, it 
having given place to one more in keeping with modern notions of 
comfort and elegance. So many of the characters and scenes depicted 
n the Custom House sketch in the " Introduction to the Scarlet 
Letter "' were living realities, it is no wonder that visitors inquire for 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. 1 77 

and actually expect to be shown the manuscript itself at the Custom 
House or the Essex Institute. The publication of the " Scarlet Let- 
ter" at once produced intense curiosity to see this document of Sur- 
veyor Pue and the embroidered " A '' so graphically described, and 
which many readers of the story believed to exist. Just at this time a 
friend asked Hawthorne if he really had the scarlet letter itself and he as- 
sured him that he had. Pressed again on the matter, later, Hawthorne 
said to him : " Well, I did have it ; but, one Sunday when my wife and 
I had gone to church, the children got hold of it and burnt it up." Of 
course, the manuscript was fictitious as was Surveyor Pue's connection 
with the story, his name, only, being real, as his gravestone, still to be 
seen in St. Peter's church yard, attests. Hawthorne had a way of us- 
ing real names of which he fancied the sound, as that of Dr. Swinner- 
ton, previously referred to, whose gravestone is in the Charter street 
ground, and of Jervase Helwyse which he found on one of the 
branches of his own genealogical tree. 

The Totun Pump. "A Rill from the Town Pump " was first printed 
in the "New England Magazine" in 1835 and later in "Twice Told 
Tales." The pump stood beside a building near the present centre of 
Washington street, the Town House Square of to-day, but in construct- 
ing the railroad tunnel, in 1839, the well which supplied it with water 
dried up and another pump was set up in Washington street just by 
the passageway between the P'irst Church and the Asiatic Building 
which, in time, gave place to the present stone post and brass faucet 
from which flows Wenham lake water. So the real pump from which 
the "rills" ran can only be seen in old pictures, one of which is fortu- 
nately preserved at the Essex Institute, and another in the now rare 
Felt's Annals (v. i, p. 395). These pictures show the pump and its sur- 
roundings at about the date of the writing of the essay. The opening 
sentence " noon by the North clock, noon by the East *' refers to the 
clock on the Old North Meeting House, which stood at the corner of 
North and Lynde streets, and that on the East Meeting House, which 



17'*^ visitor's guidk to salkm. 

stood at the corner of Essex and Bentley streets and now sounds the 
hours from the belfry of the Bentley School House. The town pumps 
of Hawthorne's day were famous affairs. They were modelled from 
the old-fashioned hand fire-engines,--or, at least suggested them. 
Heavily framed in stone, and furnished with wooden troughs,— the 
engine brakes represented by heavy double handles which could 
l)e worked from either side,— they stood in various parts of the town 
stationed permanently over wells, in suitable locations, where the 
public could freely help themselves to the pure water they dispensed, 
lentil quite recently there were several of these pumps about the city, 
the last having been removed within a very few years ; but, with the 
introduction of modern improvements, the contamination of the wells 
from sewage and other sources rendered them dangerous to health and 
hence their disappearance. One was that from which the "rill " ran, 
while another occupied the site of the Theobald Mathew statue on 
Central street, and there were others at the " Witch House," at the 
foot of Gallows Hill on Boston street, at the junction of Pleasant and 
Bridge streets and elsewhere. At some of the street crossings in the 
city, as at Williams street, by the Lafayette street steamer house, and 
at the corner of Warren and Flint streets— will be noticed stones with 
holes in them some five or six inches in diameter. These were taken 
from the old town pumps and were the front stones from which the 
spouts of the pump protruded. Hawthorne had a curious pride in this 
early and popular essay. He referred to it when far away in Rome, and 
in the introduction of the "Scarlet Letter" written in 1850, he says:— 
" It may be, however— ch ! transporting and triumphant thought— that 
the great grandchildren of the present race may sometimes think kind- 
ly of the scribbler of bygone days, when the antiquary of days to come, 
among the sites remarkable in the town's history, shall point out the 
locality of the town pump." 

The Toll-gatherer s Day. This essay was printed in the " Democratic 
or 39. The scene is laid at the Essex bridge, or Bev- 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. 179 

erly bridge as il is usually called, which, running north, and south from 
Bridge street, Salem, to Cabot street, Beverly, joins the two cities. The 
bridge, which was a triumph of engineering skill in its day, was built 
in 1788, was inspected by Washington who crossed it in 1789,'and notes 
his satisfaction with it. It celebrated its one hundredth birthday Sept. 
24, 1888, with music, bunting, the roar of cannon, illuminations and dis- 
plays of fireworks. By the draw, which is still lifted like a huge trap- 
door by man power, was the old seat ; it would now be inconveniently 
near the passing street cars and, the bridge having been made free in 
1868, the toll-gatherer only exists to-day as a draw tender. The bridge, 
however, is still a favorite place for a summer evening walk for the fresh 
air and to see the beautiful sunsets up the river. The toll-house was a 
haunt of Hawthorne's in his evening rambles, — he wrote to Longfellow 
■' like the owl I seldom venture abroad till after dusk," — and there he 
met the old ship masters who frequented the place, and listened with 
rapt but silent attention to their wonderful sea-tales. 

Endicott and the Red Cross. The scene of this tale, which first ap- 
peared in "The Token " of 1838, is laid in Town House Square. The 
fact of Endicott's action is historic, but the words and scene are, of 
course, Hawthorne's. The story is, however, suggestive of the feeling 
of the times which is well embodied in a poem by Longfellow entitled 
John Endicott, in his New England tragedies. 

Mai?i Street. First printed in Miss Elizabeth Peabody's " Esthetic 
Papers " in 1849 and later, in the " Snow Image." This, of course, re- 
fers to Essex street ; but, as the diorama closes with the great snow 
storm of 1 7 1 7, no relic of things described save the Curwin or ' ' Witch " 
house, corner of North and Essex streets, can be found. 

Countless other references could be given to places and scenes 
figuring in Hawthorne's writings. In the " Carrier's Addresses " en- 
titled "The Sister Years," and "Times Portraiture" written in 1838 
for the Gazette, the then new City Hall, the present structure, is com- 
/nented upon ; while " I have opened a railroad " refers to the recently 



l8o visitor's guide to SALEM. 

established communication with Boston ; " the tall steeple of Dr. 
Emerson's church " is, of course, that of the South at the corner of 
Chestnut and Cambridge streets where good old parson Emerson 
retained his connection with the church,— a strange thing it would be 
nowadays— for sixty-seven years. " Dr. Flint's Church " was the old 
East Church on Essex street, previously mentioned, while " Sights 
from a Steeple " refers to the steeple of the third meeting-house of the 
First Church (i 718-1826) which stood on the site of the present edifice 
at the corner of Essex and Washington streets, and a picture of 
which may be seen at the Institute. In fact the whole town may be 
described as Hawthorne's workshop from which he turned out, for the 
delectation of the world, his marvellously constructed and finished 
wares. " Footprints on the Seashore," printed in the "Democratic 
Review" in 1838, and later in "Twice Told Tales," finds its counter- 
part in the "ramble to the seashore near Phillips' Beach" where 
Hawthorne "crossed the fields near the Brookhouse villa" as de- 
scribed in the '^American Note Books'' (Vol. i, p. 94). The story and 
the notes read in connection with each other, an excellent idea is 
formed of Hawthorne's method of constructing his essays, and the 
ramble is as delightful to-day as when Hawthorne spent the afternoon 
there Oct. 16, 1837. Hawthorne frequently visited on foot the rocky 
shores of Beverly, Manchester, Marblehead and Nahant. '• Browne's 
Folly," printed in the "Weal Reaf," (i860), finds its duplicate in a walk 
described in the "American Note Books" (i, p. 90, 1837). The weird 
detached paragraphs of " Alice Doane's Appeal " (first printed in "The 
Token," Boston, 1835), are described as being read by the author to 
" two young ladies,'' " on a pleasant afternoon in June " while they all 
rested on Gallows Hill, overlooking the town. The picture of early 
Salem here recalled is truthful and interesting and the closing para- 
graph is one with which this chapter may well end. Hawthorne here 
points out the true lesson of 1692 and suggests the duty of marking the 
spot where the final acts of the tragedy of those days took place ; a 



Misii L.. ^ J /V\oX<ifmzZ^ (q^°"'- 







HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. l8l 

duty which the Essex Institute seeks to perform. " Yet, ere we left the 
hill, we could not but regret that there is nothing on its barren summit, 
no relic of old, nor lettered stone of later days, to assist the imagina- 
tion in appealing to the heart. We build the memorial column on the 
height which our fathers made sacred with their blood, poured out in 
a holy cause. And here, in dark, funereal stone, should rise another 
monument, sadly commemorative of the errors of an early race, and 
not to be cast down, while the human heart has one infirmity that may 
result in crime." 



CHAPTER XIL 

Souvctiir Shopping. 

AFTER having gazed at what the old city has to show but holds 
fast in her keeping, the visitor generally looks about to see 
what there is for him to buy and take home as a remembrance. The 
old curiosity shops are favorite places of resort, where almost anything 
can be found from an antique sideboard to candle snuffers ; not to be 
had for a song, however, as the dealers well know the value of their 
time-honored wares, and never show eagerness to get rid of their goods, 
for does not each year that passes increase the age and therefore the 
par value of all the clocks and crockery ? 

Furniture and China. At the antique parlors of W. J. Stickney, 135 
Essex street, one will find a rare collection of old blue printed ware, 
choice bits of " old china " including cups of the Lowestoft ware, 
whose origin is so earnestly discussed, and also clocks, tables, chairs 
and other pieces of furniture, veritable antiques and worthy the atten- 
tion of collectors. 

At Casey's on Washington street is to be found a general collection 
while at the junk shops, auction rooms and other places set aside for 
sale of antiquities the visitor may sometimes find a treasure in dis- 
guise. 

Photographs. At Mr. Frank Cousins', 170-174 Essex street, will be 
found a complete stock of desirable photographs either mounted or 
unmounted and covering every point whether of antiquarian, histori- 
cal, scientific or architectural interest. Mr. Cousins has given his 
personal attention to this deoartment and has had the assistance of 
(182) 



SOUVENIR SHOPPING. 183 

some of the best of our local students in authenticating the historical 
sites and selecting the views most valuable to collectors of antiquarian 
tastes, or to students in colonial and provincial architecture, the best 
exhibit of which extant is now thought to be in Salem. For this 
reason, the class of students in architecture in the Massachusetts In- 
stitute of Technology has visited Salem with instructors, and sketched 
our door-heads and gate-posts and vestibules and stair-cases. In re- 
producing these and bringing them within the reach of every buyer, 
Mr, Cousins has rendered a service to his native town not easy to over 
state. Those specially interested in Nathaniel Hawthorne, or in the 
witchcraft tragedies will find in Mr. Cousins' list every view capable of 
being reproduced by photography. An hour can be pleasantly and 
profitably spent in looking over this most interesting series of views. 
At Mr. Cousins' may also be found the "Hawthorne/' tile, which com- 
bines with a portrait of the author, the " town pump " and buildings 
made famous by their connection with Hawthorne and his writings. 

Pottery, etc. Almy, Bigelow and Washburn, 188-192 Essex street, 
have an assortment of bowls, plates, etc., made in Japan from designs 
by Mr. Ross Turner, bearing upon them sketches of landmarks of Sa- 
lem such as the Hawthorne house, Roger Williams house, etc. In the 
crockery store of A. B. Russell, 216 Essex street, will be found plates, 
cups, etc. specially designed as souvenirs of Salem. At W. Harvey 
Merrill's stationery store, 201 Essex street, are souvenir paperweights, 
and in many other of the principal stores and the art stores the tourist 
can find articles which will be interesting reminders of a visit to Sa- 
lem. 

Gibraltars a?iJ Black Jacks. Another specialty of Salem the far- 
famed "Salem Gibraltars" and " Black Jacks," so charmingly written 
of by Eleanor Putnam, may be found at many of the drug stores, but 
these immortal confections can always be obtained fresh at Harris, 
Read & Co.'s, Washington street, and made from the genuine receipt 
as handed down from generation to generation. Mrs. Silsbee in her 



1 84 visitor's guide to salem. 

"A Half Century in Salem," writes: "It may be said of Salem gib- 
raltars that they speak for themselves; their fame has been wide 
spread for more than sixty years, but perhaps the true story of their 
first appearance in the town which they helped to make famous is not 
generally known by the eating public. Mr.'Spencer, an EnglishmaiK 
came to this country about the year 1822, and, being desirous of ob- 
taining work, was taken into the employment of Mr. Merritt, the ex- 
pressman, who during a long life secured the respect and conhdence 
of his fellow citizens. While in his family he experimented with the 
making of gibraltars, and succeeded so well that they met with a ready 
sale, which placed him in a comfortable -position ; and it is probable 
that his mother soon followed him from England, as no old inhabitant 
of Salem can separate the idea of a gibraltar from a wagon driven by 
Mrs. Spencer from shop to shop, to supply the numerous wholesale 
customers. At first their means must have been limited, as a weekly 
purchase of the soft white paper in which the candy was neatly 
wrapped was as large an outlay as it semed prudent to make, and it 
may be that this wise economy was an efficient aid to the extensive 
business following these very small beginnings. The gibraltars when 
fresh were almost as hard as their Spanish namesake, losing the brittle 
quality in course of time, but never melting into stickiness. The re- 
tail price was a silver four-pence half-penny for seven, and many a 
child used to spend his or her whole allowance in the purchase 
of the tempting sweets." The " Black Jacks," the dark 
companions of the " Gibraltars," have always been a favorite with Sa- 
lem children and older folk, too, as to that matter— they also have 
continued in the same hands as the gibraltar, and can be found on 
sale at the same places. 

Souvenir Spoons. Mr. Daniel Low at 231 Essex street, besides the 
usual exhibit of a well-equipped silversmith and jeweller's establish- 
ment, makes a specialty of souvenir spoons. He was the first to in- 
troduce in this country souvenirs of this description, the " Salem 



SOUVKNIR SHOPPING. iS^ 

witch '' being his first venture, which was followed by another bearing 
the same name, but of a different pattern ; these and the Hawthorne 
spoon are of local interest. He has also as his own special designs the 
" Lief Erickson," " Concord " and "Lexington." The "Salem Witch" 
appears here also, emblazoned on cups and saucers and in the guise 
of sleeve buttons, scarf pins and a thousand and one ornaments of 
different kinds. 

Salem has been for years the centre of the silver ware trade for 
southern Essex County and interesting items of histor}- might be re- 
corded in this connection. At the corner of Essex and North streets, 
opposite the Roger Williams house, stood an ancient homestead at the 
beginning of the last century, of which Hawthorne said that it pro- 
bably dated from 1640 and had a brick turret in which alchemy had 
been practised. It was early in this century the shop of Dudley New- 
hall, silversmith, and the office of Judge Story was above stairs in it. 
A stone's throw away was another silversmith's shop where President 
Cleveland's grandfather mended watches and marked spoons in a lot 
since the garden of Judge Lord and Doctor Carlton. Robert Brook- 
house began his remarkable and useful career, early in the century, 
in a shop numbered six on " Old Paved Street " now 244 Essex St., 
where he advertised in the Essex Register " Gold, Silver, Hardware 
and Looking glasses." John Touzell, a grandson of Philip English 
was here as a goldsmith and jeweller in 1756, and John Andrew fol- 
lowed the same craft at the sign of the "Golden Cup" in 1769. Joseph 
Hiller, Washington's first collector of the customs at this port, came 
here in 1770 to establish, at a central point, the trade of a watchmaker. 

In this connection may be mentioned a family that for three genera- 
tions has carried on the business of making clocks. This handicraft, 
in the early days of New England, evolved itself of necessity out of the 
better class of blacksmith's work, and one of the early pioneers was 
Richard Manning, of Ipswich, from whom the first of our clock- 
makers, Aaron Smith, learned his trade. There is a very good speci- 



1 86 visitor's guide to salem. 

men at the Essex Institute of a Manning clock made in 1767. Aaron 
Smith was engaged in his business before the Revolution, for he was 
prevented from reaching the battle of Bunker Hill by being detained 
at home to manufacture bayonets for the use of our Essex County 
minute-men in the troubles then expected. He made many famous 
clocks in his day. The second of the name, Jesse Smith, was ap- 
prenticed to the trade in 1803. The third generation all entered the 
service, Edward in 1838, Daniel in 1840, and Jesse about five years 
later. There is in use in the family to-day, a fine specimen of an 
Aaron Smith clock. It is in perfect running order and bears date 1789. 
For many years the family have occupied shops on our main street. 

So Salem has had, for a century or two, her shop windows aglow 
with the glittering craftsmanship of the jewellers, along that sombre 
thoroughfare first known to the settlers as the Broad Lane leading 
from Block House square and Neck Gate to Town Bridge, — then 
sometimes as King's Street and Queen's street,— and again as Cheap- 
side and Old Paved street, — and now as Essex street, — but always, as 
Hawthorne has described it in that exquisite panoramic picture from 
which we take a page in closing, as the old Main street. [We use 
these extracts with the courteous consent of Messrs. Houghton, 
Mifflin & Co., the authorized publishers of Mr. Hawthorne's works.] 

In that delightful conceit wherein throng " the characteristic scenes 
that have passed along this thoroughfare during the more than two 
centuries of its existence" we have presented to the eye by the great 
magician in a shifting panorama, — the philistine critics and the show- 
man furnishing in turn a running commentary as it moves, — a "certain 
pictorial exhibition," as he calls it, "somewhat in the nature of a 
puppet-show by means of which the multiform and many colored-past 
is called up before the spectator with no greater trouble than the turn- 
ing of a crank." 

"The curtain rises and we behold,— not, indeed, the Main Street,— 
but the track of leaf-strewn forest-land over which its dusty pavement 



SOUVENIR SHOPPING. I87 

is hereafter to extend. . . . The white man's axe has never smit- 
ten a single tree ; his foot step has never crumpled a single one of the 
withered leaves, which all the autumns since the flood have been har- 
vesting beneath. Yet, see ! along through the vista of impending 
boughs, there is already a faintly-traced path, running nearly east and 
west, as if a prophecy or foreboding of the future street had stolen in- 
to the heart of the solemn old wood. Onward goes this hardly per- 
ceptible track, now ascending over a natural swell of land, now 
subsiding gently into a hollow; traversed here by a little streamlet, 
which glitters like a snake through the gleam of sunshine, and quickly 
hides itself among the underbrush, in its quest for the neighboring 
cove ; and impeded there by the massy corpse of a giant of the forest, 
which had lived out its incalculable term of life, and been overthrown 
by mere old age, and lies buried in the new vegetation that is born of 
its decay. What footsteps can have worn this half seen path ? Hark ! 
do we not hear them now rustling softly over the leaves ? We discern 
an Indian woman,— a majestic and queenly woman, or else her spec- 
tral image does not represent her truly, — for this is the great Squaw 
Sachem, whose rule, with that of her sons, extends from Mystic to 
Agawam. That red chief, who stalks by her side, is Wappacowet, her 
second husband, the priest and magician, whose incantation shall 
hereafter affright the pale faced settlers with grizzly phantoms, dancing 
and shrieking in the woods, at midnight. But greater would be the 
affright of the Indian necromancer, if, mirrorred in the pool of water 
at his feet, he could catch a prophetic glimpse of the noonday marvels 
which the white man is destined to achieve ; if he could see, as in a 
dream, the stone front of the stately hall, which will cast its shadow 
over this very spot ; if he could be aware that the future edifice will 
contain a noble museum, where, among countless curiosities of earth 
and sea, a few Indian-arrow-heads shall be treasured up as memorials 
of a banished race.'' 
The evolution of the street is traced out from this Indian moccasin- 



i88 visitor's guide to salem. 

trail, through the way for Englishman with hob-nailed shoes, and the 
ruts of loaded wagon wheels. Then come in turn upon the canvas and 
pass along before us, Roger Conant, tramping homeward in his 
leather gherkin, with gun and game on his shoulder, to his garden- 
patch of beans and pumpkins and cabbages and Indian corn. Endi- 
cott with the company of the "Abigail" arrive and pace this street. 
A meeting house of logs appears. The mail-clad train-band muster 
and march by, while trembling savages peep from behind the tree- 
trunks to hear the thunder of the great guns on the fort near by. 
Roger Williams and Hugh Peters, Winthrop and Sir Richard Salton- 
stall. Lady Arbella Johnson, Ann Hutchinson, and her cousin Sir 
Harry Vane, all figured in the scene, — the bell-man • cries the 
hours through the watches of the night, — the neat-herd, at early 
dawn, makes proclamation with his horn to every cow in town that the 
dewy pasture-hour is come, — on lecture day the pillory and whipping- 
post and great wooden cage are in request, when Endicott is correct- 
ing the Quaker heres}^, and Buffum and Southwick, both dwellers on 
this street are suffering under his frown, and Goody Coleman is 
scourged on her naked shoulders at the cart's tail, by Major Hathorne's 
warrant through this very Main street. King Philip's war breaks out, 
and the "Flower of Essex," on their way to Bloody Brook, march along 
the street, to the stately mansion where their famous captain Gardner 
draws his sword and takes command. And at last we see the sad pro- 
cession of the doomed,— poor old George Jacobs, and the Proctors, 
man and wife, and Goody Carrier, whom the Devil was said to have 
Ijeguiled with a promise that she should be queen of hell,— and that 
exemplary minister George Burroughs, and many wretches more stag- 
ger forward over this very avenue to Gallows Hill, where the Rev. 
Cotton Mather sits upon his horse, impatient to administer, in their 
strangulation, a death blow to Satan's power in New England. Then 
''universal madness riots in the Main street." 
But a catastrophe to the mechanism puts a sudden period to the show, 



SOUVENIR SHOPPING. 189 

and, with the showman's closing words, we too will take our leave of 
the reader of this little book, 

'Alas! my kind and gentle audience," he says, "you know not the 
extent of your misfortune. The scenes to come were far better than 
the past. And would your interest have deepened, as, passing out of 
the cold shadow of antiquity, in my long and weary course, I should 
arrive within the limits of man's memory, and, leading you at last into 
the sunshine of the present, should give a reflex of the very life that is 
flitting past us ! * * * Then, too, I had expended a vast deal of 
light and brilliancy on a representation of the street in its whole length, 
from Buffum's Corner downward, on the night of the grand illumina- 
tion for General Taylor's triumjDh. Lastly, I should have given the 
crank one other turn and have brought out the future, showing you 
who shall walk the main street tomorrow." 

If we could give the magic mechanism a final turn, and show 
Nathaniel Hawthorne at nightfall scudding down our main street 
almost unnoticed in his camblet cloak and slouched sombrero, that 
would be the figure of all the group which would rivet the attention of 
the modern tourist. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Lists of Portraits. 

THE following lists of portraits, which may be seen in buildings 
accessible to the public in Salem, has been prepared for the 
convenience of those who are interested in historical portraiture. 
Only portraits in oils and pastels have been included, excepting in the 
few cases noted. 

Custom House, Derby street. Open, week days, from 9 a. ai. to 2 
p. M. 

Hiller, Maj. Joseph, 1748-1814. First collector under U. S. government, 
1789. Pastel. 

Court House, Federal street. All of the portraits are in the law 
library, excepting that of Judge Shaw, which is in the court room. 
Open week days excepting Saturday afternoons. 

Choate, George Francis, 1822-1888. Judge of Probate. By Frederick P. 
Vinton. 

Choate, Rnfus, 1799-1859. Counsellor, U. S. senator, jurist. By Joseph 
Ames. 

Cushing, Caleb, 1800-1879. Jurist and diplomat. 

Ives, Stephen Bradshaw, 1827-1884. President Essex Bar Association. 
By John J. Redmond. 

Lord, Otis Phillips, 1812-1884. Judge, Supreme Court of Massachusetts. 
By Frederick P. Vinton. 

Moseley, Ebenezer, 1781-1854. Lawyer. By Miss Williams. 

Perkins, Jonathan Cogswell, 1809 1877, Judge of Court of Common 
Pleas. Crayon. 
(190) 



LISTS OF PORTRAITS. I9I 

Putnam, Samuel, 1768-1853. Jud.oe of Supreme Court of Massachusetts. 

Saltonstall, Leverett, 1783-1845. Member of Congress, first mayor of Sa- 
lem. By George Southard, after Osgood. 

Shaw, Lemuel, 1781-1861. Chief Justice Supreme Court of Massachusetts. 
By William M. Hunt. 

City Hall, 93 Washington street. Open each week day ; closed on 
holidays and Saturday afternoons. Apply at the city messenger's office. 

Bradstreet, Simon. Governor Massachusetts Bay Colony, 1679-86 and 
1689-92. By Joseph DeCamp, after painting at State House, Boston. 

Endicott, John. Governor of Massachusetts Bay Colony, many terms. 
1629-1665. By Geo. Southard, after original in possession of the family. 

Jackson, Andrew. Seventh president of U. S. By Maj. R. E. W. Earl. 

King, John Glen. President first Salem common council, 1836-1837. By 
Frank W. Benson, after Charles Osgood. 

Lafayette, Marquis de. By Chas. Osgood, after Prof. S. F. B. Morse. 

Low, Abiel Abbot, 1811-1893. Donor of the " Low funds. "^ By P. P. Rider. 

Oliver, Henry Kemble. Adj. Gen. Mass. ; Mayor of Salem, 1877-80. By 
Miss Adelaide Cole. 

Read, Charles Albert. Donor of the "Read Fund" of the City of Salem. 
By J. Harvey Young. 

Saltonstall, Leverett. First mayor of Salem, 1836-38. By Charles Os- 
good. 

Sheridan, Gen. Philip Henry. By Charles C. Redmond. 

Washington, George. By James Frothingham, after Gilbert Stuart (full- 
length). 

Washington, George. By Jane Stuart, aftei- her father Gilbert Stuart 
(half-length). 

Public Library, 370 Essex street. Open week days, from 9 a. m. to 
10 p. M. Sundays, from 2 to 8 p. m. 

Bertram, John, 1796-1882. By Frederick P. Vinton. 

Felt, Rev. Joseph Barlow, LL.D., 1789-1869. Historian. By Edgar 
Parker. 



192 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

Armory of the Salem Ca^/e/s, 136 Essex street. Open during the day 
upon application to the janitor. 

Abbott, Maj. Stephen. First commander, 1758 1788. By George South- 
ard. 

Bancroft, Lieutenant George C., 40 Infantry. Killed in the Rebellion. 

Brownell, Lieutenant. The avenger of Ellsworth. From life, by J. Har- 
vey Young. 
^ Dalton, Lt. Col. J. Frank. Commander, 1884-1891. By Charles C. Red- 
mond. 

Dalton, Adj. Gen. Samuel C. Commander, 1877-1882. By Charles C. Red- 
mond. 

Ellsworth, Col. E. E., Born 1837; shot by one Jackson at Alexandria, Va., 
May 24, 1861. From life, by J. Harvey Young. 

Foster, Maj. S. B. Commander, 1847-1851. By .J. Harvey Young. 

Hart, Lt. Col. John W. Commander, 1891-1895. Crayon photograph by W. 
G. Hussey. 

Johnson, Major Thomas H., Commander, 1865-1868. Crayon photograph. 

Marks, Major John Lewis, Commander, 1861-1865. Crayon photograph. 

Sutton, Gen. William, Commander, 1836-1841. By J. Harvey Young. 

Washington, George. After Stuart (half-length) . 

S(7/em Marine Society^ Franklin building, Washington square. Apply 
at the rooms on week days. 
Barnard, Edward, 1781-1858. Master Mariner. Foreign. 
Bowditch, Natlianiel, 1773-1838. Mathematician. By Charles Osgood. 
Page, Samuel, 1778-1834. Master mariner. Foreign. 
West, Thomas, 1778-1849. Master mariner. By his son. 

State Nor7}ial School. Open on week days. Apply at the school 
building on the corner of Summer and Broad streets. 

Crosby, Prof. Alpheus. Principal, 1857 to 1805. By E. T. Billings. 

Crosby, Mrs. Martha (Kingman). Assistant, 1851 to 1865. Wife of last 
named (married, 1861). By E. T. Billings. 



LISTS OF PORTRAITS. 1 93 

Edwards, Hiciiard, LI..!). First principal, 1854-1857. 

Hai>ar, Daniel Barnard, Pli.l). Priiu-ii)al 1865, and at ])resent time. By 
Edgar Parker. 

Hagar, Daniel Barnard, Ph. D. rrayou. By Miss Jennie F. Lewis. 
Mann, Horace, LL.D.. 1T9G-I85^>. Philantliropist. By J. Harvey Young. 
Prescott. William Hickling. Historian. By J. Harvey Young. 
Washington, Martha. 

Essex Institute, at rooms 132 Essex street. Rooms open week days, 
except holidays, from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. 

Adams, John Quincy, 1767-1848. Sixth president U. S. 

Barnard, Bev. Edward, 1720-1774, Minister at Haverhill. By Copley. 

Bentley, Rev. William, D. D., 1759-1819. Minister East Church, Salem. 

Bertram, John. 1798-1882. Merchant. Copy by Miss H. Frances Os- 
borne after Edgar Parker at Peabody Academy of Science. 

Bowditch, Nathaniel, 1773-1838. Mathematician. Copy by Miss A. W. 
Woodbury after Charles Osgood at Peabody Academy of Science. 

Bradstreet, Simon, 1603-1697. Governor Mass. Bay Colony. After paint- 
ing in Mass. senate chamber. 

Carnes, Capt. John, 1775 1796. Master mariner. 

Clarke, Mrs. Deborah. Wife of Francis Clarke, maternal grandmother of 
Lord Bryan Fairfax. By Smibert. 

Clarke, Kev. John, 1755-1798. Pastor First Church, Boston. By Henry 
.Sargent. 

Cole, Thomas, 1779-1852. Teacher and scientist. By Charles Osgood. 

Cromwell, Oliver. An old portrait. 

Cushing, Thomas, 1788-1825. Leader in Revolutionary War and lieuten- 
ant-governor of Massachusetts. 

Cutler, Rev. Manasseh, 1742-1823. Minister, member of congress and sci- 
entist. By Lakeman. 

Dabney, Jonathan Peele. At the age of thirteen. 

Dane, Nathan, 1752-1835. Member of congress and jurist. By Mrs. Da- 
vid, after a portrait in Dane Hall, Cambridge. 

Derby, Ezekiel Hersey, 1772-1852. Merchant. By Charles Osgood. 

Derbv, Mrs. Hannah Browne. Wife of last named. 



194 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

Derby, Richard, 1712-1783. Merchant. Copy by George Southard. 

Endicott, John, 1589-1665. Governor of Mass. Bay Colony. By T. Mitch- 
ell, after the jjortrait in council chamber, Boston. 

Endicott, John, 1589-1665. By James Frothingham, after portrait in pos- 
session of the family. 

Fisher, Dr. Joshua, 1749-1833. Physician in Beverly. 

Fitch, Timothy, 1725-1790. Merchant of Boston. By John Singleton Cop- 
ley, about 1765. 

Fitch, Mrs. Eunice (Browne). Wife of last named. By John Singleton 
Copley, about 1765. 

Forrestier, Augustine. Merchant in East Indies. Died about 1845. 

Gibaut, John. Portrait at the age of fourteen. 

Goodhue, Benjamin, 17481814. First M. C. Essex District; U. S. Senator. 
After J. Wright . 

Goodhue, Jonathan, 1783-1848. Merchant in ISTew York. 

Hamilton, Alexander, 1757-1804. First secretary of the treasury, United 
States. By John Trumbull. 

Harrison, Wni. Henry, 1773-1844. Ninth president of the United States. 
By Abel Nichols. 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 1804-1864. Novelist. From a photograph by Miss 
H. Frances Osborne. 

Higginson, Francis (?). First minister of Salem. An old portrait. 

Holyoke, Dr. Edward Augustus, LL.D,, 1728-1829. Physician. By James 
Frothingham. 

Holyoke, Mrs. Elizabeth (Browne). Wife of Rev. Edward Holyoke. An 
old portrait. 

Ingersoll, Horace, 1811-1894. 

Ingersoll, Susan, 1786-1858. 

King, John Glen, 1787-1857. Counsellor. By Charles Osgood. 

Kirkland, John T., D. D., LL.D., 1770-1840. President of Harvard College, 
1810-1828. 

Leavitt, Capt. Henry. Mariner. 

Leverett, Sir John, 1616-1679. Governor Massachusetts Bay Colony. An 
old portrait. 

Mack, Elisha, 1783-1852. Judge of Police Court. By Charles Osgood. 



LISTS OF PORTRAITS. 195 

Mack, Harriet, 1792-1848. Wife of last named. By Charles Osgood. 

Martineau, Harriet. Authoress. By Charles Osgood. 

Mason, David, 1726-1794. Kevolutionary officer. Deposited by David Ma- 
son Little. 

Mason, Thomas. Merchant. Pastel. 

Le Mercier, Andrew, 1692-1763. Inscribed *' in Christo-vita est mortar Mer- 
cerus in illo.^' An old portrait. 

Nichols, Andrew, 1785-1853. First president Essex County Natural History 
Society. By Miss Sarah Nichols. 

Orue, William, 1752-1815. Merchant of Salem. 

Prince, Mrs. Frederick W. By Charles Osgood. 

Paul I, Emperor of Paissia, 1754-1801. 

Pepperrell, Sir William, 1696-1759. Merchant and commander against Lou- 
isburg, 1745. 

Perry, Pvev. Gardner B., 1783-1859. Minister of Groveland. 

Phillips, Stephen.Clarendon, 1801-1857. Merchant and second mayor of 
Salem. By George Southard. 

Pickering, Timothy, 174.5-1829. Of Washington's cabinet, etc. By N. 
Lakeman, 1826. 

Pickman, Benjamin, 1763-1843. Merchant and member of congress. 

Prince, Pvev. John, 1751-18.36. Pastor of First Church, Salem. 

Pynchon, William, 1.590-1662. "Founder of Springfield" Lettered: " Guil 
Pynchon. Armgi Effigies Delm. Anno Dom. 1657. ^tat. 67." 

Roberts, David, 1804-1879. Thirteenth mayor of Salem. By George South- 
ard. 

Rogers, Rev. John. Minister of First Church, Ipswich. By Smibert. 

Ropes, David, 1739-1793. Pastel. 

Ropes, Mrs. Priscilla. Wife of last named. Pastel. 

Saltonstall, Leverett, 1783-1845. First mayor of Salem. By Charles Os- 
good. 

Sewell, Maj. Stephen, 1657-1725. Clerk of witchcraft court. An old por- 
trait. 

Sewall, Mrs. Margaret (Mitchell). Wife of last named. 

Story, Augustus, 1812-1882. Counsellor. Crayon. 

Story, Joseph, 1779-1845. Justice U. S. Supreme Court. By Charles Os- 
good. 



196 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Story, Capt. William, 1774-1864. By Charles Osgood. 

Taylor, Zachary, 1784-1850. Twelfth president of the United States. By 
F. Alexander, 1848. 

Toll Gather of Beverly Bridge. 

Tucker, Ichabod, 1765-1846. Counsellor. 

Upham, Rev. Charles Wentworth, 1802-1875. Seventh mayor of Salem, 
minister of the First Church and author of Salem Witchcraft. By Charles 
Osgood. 

Ward, Gen. Frederick T., 1831-1862. Commander Chinese army during the 
Tai Ping Rebellion. Crayon, 

Washington, George. After Stuart. Half-length. 

Webster, Daniel. U. S. senator. 

West, Benjamin. Killed at the Battle of Bunker Hill. Copy of a portrait 
by himself. 

Wheatland, Dr. Henry, 1812-1893. President of Essex Institute 1868-1893. 
By F. 1'. Vinton. 

Wheatland, Dr. Henry, 1812-1893. By J. I.. Wimbush. 

White, Daniel A., 1776-1861. Judge of probate for Essex County. First 
president of Essex Institute. By Chester Harding, 

White, Capt. Joseph. Merchant of Salem. Pastel. 

White, Mrs. Joseph. Wife of last named. Pastel. 

Peabody Acadejiiy of Science. Portraits of Salem merchants and mem- 
bers and officers of the East India Marine Society. Arranged on the 
north and south walls of the gallery in the East Hall of the Academy 
at 161 Essex street. Open from 9 a. m, to 5 p. m. week days, and from 
2 p. M. to 5 p. M. Sunday afternoons. 

Allen, Edward, 1735-1803. Merchant. 

Allen, John Fiske, 1807-1876. Merchant. Miniature in oil. 

Becket, John, 1776-1816. Master mariner. Pastel, Hornemann, 1808. 

Benson, Samuel, 1790-1862. Merchant. 

Bentley, Rev. William. Minister of the East Church and historian. 

Bertram, John, 1796-1882. Merchant. By Edgar Parker. 

Bowditch, Nathaniel, 1773-1838. Mathematician. By Charles Osgood. 



LISTS OF PORTRAITS. I97 

Briggs. James Ihiffington, 1790-1857. Master Mariner. Foreign. 

Brown, William, 177u-18():^.. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Brown, William, 1783-18:]:5. Master mariner. 

Bnffington, James, 1798-1881. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Carpenter, Benjamin, 1751-1823. Master mariner. Foreign 

Chever, James, 1791-1857. Master mariner. Crayon photograph. 

Cleveland, George, 1781-1840. Silhouette, with wife. 

Cleveland, George William. Merchant. Antwerp, J. Metzer. 

Clough, Benjamin. Master mariner. Crayon photograph. 

Cook, Samuel, 1769-18G1. Master mariner. Crayon photograph. 

Crowninshield, Benjamin, 175^-1831}. ]S[ aster mariner. Pastel. By Miss 
Mary Gulliver, after an old miniature. 

Crowninshield, Jacob, 1770-1808. JNIerchant and member of Congress. 
By Robert Ilinkley, after an old miniature. 

Derby, Elias Haskett, 17:39-1799. Merchant. By James Frothingham. 

Dodge, Pickering, 1778-1833. Merchant. George Southard, after Froth- 
ingham. 

Elkins, Henry, 1701-1836. Master mariner. Pastel. By Hirschmann, 
Holland, 1791. 

Esliing, Merchant of Canton, China, about 1825-40. By a Chinese artist. 

Fettyplace, William, 1780 1867. Merchant. By Charles Osgood. 

Fiske, John Brown. 1801-18SI. Master mariner. By B. C. Schiller, 1846. 

Gale, Samuel. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Gray, William, 175r-lS25. Merchant and lieutenant-governor of Massa- 
chusetts. After Stuari. 

Hodges, Henjamin, 1754-1800. First President of the East India Marine 
Society. Silhouette with wife. 

Hodges, Jonathan, 1764-1837. First Secretary East India Marine Society. 
Silhouette. 

Hodges, Joseph, 1787-1863. Master mariner. Enlarged photograph. 

Lander, William, 1778-1834. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Neal, Nathan Ward, 1797-1850. Merchant. By F. Alexander. 

Orne, William, 1752-1815. Merchant. Foreign. 

Peabody, George, 1795-1869. Philanthropist. By A. Bertram Schell, 1869. 

Peabody, Joseph, 1757-1844. Merchant. By Charles Osgood. 



198 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Pickman, Dudley Leavitt, 1779-1846. Merchant. By A. Haitwell, after 
Chester Harding. 

Pratt, Joseph. Master mariner. By Henry C. Pratt. 

Preston, Capt. Joseph, 1780-1850. Master mariner. By M. Vorvoort, 1820. 

Putnam, Allen, 1794-1868. Merchant. 

Kobinson, Nathan, 1770-1835. Merchant. By Frothingham. 

Rogers, Eichard Saltonstall, 1790-1873. Merchant. By Robert Hinkley. 

Ruee, Thomas. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Said-Said. Sultan of Zanzibar. Foreign, about 1860. 

Saul, Thomas, 1787-1875. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Scobie, John J. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Silsbee, Benjamin Hodges, 1811-1880. Merchant.- Crayon photograph. 

Silsbee, Nathaniel, 1773-1850. Merchant and U. S. senator. By A. Hart- 
well, after Chester Harding. 

Story, William, 1774-1864. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Tucker, Samuel Dudley, 1782-1857. Merchant. Daguerreotype. 

Tucker, Henry. Lost on Margaret, 1810. Pastel. 

Vanderford, Benjamin. Master mariner. Wilkes' Exploring Expedition. 
Silhouette. 

Ward, William Raymond Lee, 1811 (living). Senior member East India 
Marine Society, joined 1834. Resides in New York city. 

West, Nathaniel, 1756-1851. Merchant. By C. R. Leslie. 



CHAPTER XIA^ 

Bibliography. 

TO those wlio may wish to become more familiar with Salem and its vi- 
cinity, and the history of this section, the following books are rec- 
ommended : 

"Annals of Salem," by the Rev. Joseph B. Felt. Tw^o editions— 1827 
and 1845, and now very scarce. 

" An Historical Sketch of Salem, 1626-1879," by Charles S. Osgood and 
Henry M. Batchelder. Published by the Essex Institute, Salem, 1879. 
Price $8. Paper edition, not illustrated, $1. 

Salem, in History of Essex County, Hurd. Pages 2 to 249 of Vol. I. Out 
of print, but may be consulted in the libraries. 

" Old Naumkeag." A short historical sketch of Salem and the surround- 
ing towms by C. H. Webber and W. S. Nevins. Published in 1877. Price, 
$2.50. Scarce, but copies may still be had. 

Songs and Saunterings of a Poet and Naturalist, by W. G. Barton— G. W. 
Breed. Cloth, $1.50. 

" Salem Witchcraft," 2 vols., by Hon. Charles W. Upham. Published in 
1867 and now rare. 

" Salem Witchcraft in Outline," by Mrs. Caroline E. Upham; SalenVPress, 
1892. Price, $1. 

" Witchcraft in Salem Village in 1692," by Winfield S. Nevins. Published 
by Lee & Shepard in 1892. Price, $1.25. 

Origin of the Catholic Church in Salem and its growth, by Pvev. L. S. 
Walsh. Out of print, but may be consulted in the libraries. 

'* Our Trees " {Essex Institute). An account of the trees in the streets of 
Salem, with the location of the different species and historical and botanical 
notes. Out of print. 

(199) 



200 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

" The North Shore of Massachusetts Bay," a guide and history of Marble- 
head, Juniper Point, Salem Neck, Beverly and ("ape Ann, Ity IJenj. I). Hill 
and W. S. Nevins. Published by North Shore Pul). Co , Salem. Price, 25 
cents. 

" History and Traditions of Marblehead," by Samuel Koads, jr. Published 
by Houghton, Osgood & Co., Boston, 1880. Price, $3.50. 

"A Half Century in Salem,'' by Mrs. M. C. D. Silsbee. Houghton. 
Mifflin & Co., 1887. Price, !t^L 

" The Hearths and Homes of Salem," by Geo. F. Davenport. Published 
by the Salem Observer. Price 25 cents. 

"The Naumkeag Directory," compiled and i)ublished by Henry M. Meek; 
contains valuable and statistical information in regard to Salem. Price, $2. 

" The Historical Collections " of the Essex Institute, published quarterly 
at $3 per annum, contains many valuable articles relating to local history, . 
antiquities, genealogies, ancient records, etc., and the '• Bulletin " of the 
Institute contains many articles in relation to the natural history and 
archaeology of the region, including lists of plants, minerals and animals. 

The Salem Press Historical and Genealogical Record, Vols. I and II, 1890- 
92. Cloth, $10. 

Putnam's Monthly Historical Magazine, $2 per annum. Single numbers, 
25 cents. Continuation of the Salem Press Historical and Genealogical 
Record. 

The Bulletin of the Salem Public Library, Vol. I, No. 3, contains a list of 
about 303 titles of book? and articles in rslatioi to Salc.n which may be 
consulted at the library. 



INDEX. 



Bryant, Macintire, 



Adams, Prest, John, in Salem, . . . . 

Adams, Prest. John Quincy, in Salem, etc., . 

Africa, collections from (P. A. S.), . 

Almshouse, ...... 

America, South, collections from (P. A. S.), 
American Association for the Advancement of Science, 
Andrew, John, house, .... 

Andrew, Gov. John A., . 
Architects, early, etc. (See Bulfinch 

Sumner, Upjohn), . 
Armory, Salem Cadets, 
Armory, Salem Light Infantry, 
Arms, old, Ptcvolutionary, etc., 
Arthur, Prest. Chester A., in Salem, 
Arthur, Prince, of England, in Salem, 
Asbury Grove, 
Assembly Hall, 
Associated Charities, 
Asylum, State Lunatic, 
Athenaeum, Salem, 
Autographs, .... 

Bainbridge, Commodore, in Salem, 

Baker's Island, 

Bands, military, etc., 

Banks, ..... 

Barnard, Rev. Thomas, . 

Barr, James, residence, 



Page 

27 

27, 88, 93 

101 

69 

10:j 

111 

14 

14, 18 



60, 192 

62, 113 

81 

28 

60 

148, 149 

13, 43, 44 

112 

153 

72 

79, 110 

19, 27, 59, 108, 113 

129 

62 

118 

25, 42 

25 



(201) 



INDEX. 



Beadle's Tavern, 1692, . 

Bell, Prof. A. Graham, telephone in Salem, 

Bells, 

Bentley, Rev. William, 

Bertram, Capt. John, 

Bertram elm, ..... 

Bethel, Seamen's, Marine Soc, . 

Beverly Farms, .... 

Beverly Shore, .... 

Bibliography, .... 

Birds of Essex Co., etc. (P. A. S.), 

Bishop, Bridget, death warrant, etc., 

Board of Trade, Salem, . 

Boarding houses, hotels. 

Board man house, 

Bolivia, Browne collection from (P. A. S.), 

Bonfires, "Fourth of July," 

Books, valuable, old, etc.. 

Botany, dried plants, woods, etc. (P. A. S. ), 

Bowditch, Nathaniel, birthplace, etc., 

Bradstreet, Gov. Simon, 

Bridge, Essex or Beverly, 

Bridge, "Floating," 

Bridge, North, .... 

Bridge, town, of 1640, 

Brigham, Judge L. F., 

Brookhouse, Robert, 

Bryant, Gridley J. F., architect, . . 

Bxilfinch, Charles, architect, 

"Burying Point" (see Charter St. Cemetery) 

Business, ..... 

Cadets, Salem, Armory, etc.. 
Cemetery, Charter St., . 



Page 
U: 

41, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 60, 119^' 145 
41, 59, 193, 196- 
71, 72, 113, 114, 115, 191, 193, 196- 

139^ 

50, 113 

145 

. . 141 

199 

94 

32, 34, 35, 57 

118 

122, 129 

14 

101 

130 

83, 84 ■ 

96,99,J35- 

15, 80, 87,, 192, 193, 19« 

2, 12, 65, 79, 124, 191,493 

.134, 141, 146, 159, 178 . 

. . 355 

. ' 23,42 

... 157 

15 

. 114, 115, 185 

42, 76 

69, 118 

124, 156 

■118 

60,192 
124, 156 



INDEX. 



203 



Cemeteries, old and new, 

Cemetery, old, in Danvers, 

Chandeliers, okV glass, 

Chapel, Dickson memorial, 

Charities, . . 

Charter, Conant's, . . . . 

Charter, Endicott's, ... 

Chebacco ponds, . . . . 

"Chesapeake and Shannon", 

Chestnut Street House, Hawthorne's, 

Children's Friend Soc., Seamen's Orphan and, 

Children's sanitarium, . . . . 

China, collections from (P. A. S.), 

China, old, and other ware, 

China (porcelain), souvenir, . 

Choate, Rufus, residence, etc.. 

Church, Advent Christian, 

Church, Baptist (First, Central, Calvary), 

Church, Crombie St., 

Church, East, . 

Churoli, First, .... 

Church, First (Pui'itan Meeting house), 

Cliurcli, Grace, .... 

Church, Howard St., 

Church, Immaculate Conception, 

Church, Independent, Barton Sq., 

Church, -Lafayette St., M. E., 

Church, Methodist, meeting-house sites, 

Cimrch, New Jerusalem, Swedenborgian, . 

Church, North. . . . . , 

Church, St. James, 

Church, St. Joseph's, 

Church, St. Peter's, .... 

Church, South, 



Page 


124, 156, 158. 


159 


152, 


153 


43, 


110 




126 




112 




4 




4 




148 


25, 4-1 


,45 




169 




115 




129 




107 


7P, 8(', 


182 


1F3, 


184 


l"^, 


190 




50 




48 




44 


. 40, 87, 151', 


180 


>, 41, 44.67. SO, 


180 


6, 89, 77 


, 85 




47 


2* 


, 44 




48 




44 




49 




49 




50 


42 


, 44 




49 




49 


4t?. 


159 


43, 157. 


180 



204 



INPEX. 



( liiirch spires, height of, . 


41, 43, 49 


Church, Tabernacle, .... 


. . 41 


i hurch, Topsfield, ..... 


13 


Church, Universalist, .... 


48 


Church, Wesley, ..... 


50 


Churches, list of and location, . 


38 


i ity Buildings, ..... 


m 


City Hall, . . • • • • 


. 63, 157, 180, 191 


Clay, Henry, . 


18 


"Cleopatra's Barge," yacht, 


123 


Cleveland, grandfather of Prest., . . . 


185 


Clifton Heights, ..... 


. . 139 


(locks, . . . . . 


44, 48, 77, 80, 177, 185 


Clothing, old fashioned, . , . . 


78 


Coal companies, ..... 


123 


Cogswell, Gen. William, 


19 


Coins, ....... 


81, 84 


Cold Spring, ..... 


130 


Commerce of Salem, ..... 


8 


'•Common," ..... 


127 


Communion plate, old, . . . 


. 40,41, 42,45,47,81 


Conant, Eoger, . . . . . 


3, 11, 67 


Congress, First Provincial, .... 


22 


"Constitution", frigate, model, 1813, etc. (P. A. S.), 


108 


Copley, J. S., portraits by, .... 


193, 194 


Corey, Giles, ..... 


5, 32, 35, 124, 150 


Corwin, George, sheriff, 1692, house site, . 


33, 124 


Gorwin, Justice Jonathan, .... 


6. 15, 33 


Cotton Mills, first, Beverly, ... 


146, 147 


Cotton Co., Naumkeag Steam, 


119, 123, 160 


Court, District, ..... 


57 


Court Houses, ...... 


54, 190 


Cranch, Judge William, residence. 


27 


Cromwell, Oliver, old portrait of, . 


193 



INDEX, 



205 



Crowninshield, George, house, etc., 

Ciowninshield, Hon. Benj., ..... 

Custom House. ...... 

Cuvier Natural History Society, .... 

Daland, Tucker, residence, . . • ■ 

i)eliverence Parkman House, .... 

Dentistry, Rogers collection, China and Japan (P. A. S. ), 
Derby, Col. Elias Haskett, . . . - . 

Derby, Elias Haskett, merchant. 
Darby, Ezekiel Hersey, residence, etc., 
Derby, John P. (•' John Phoenix "), 
Directories, collection of (Essex Institute), 
" Dolliver Romance," Hawthorne's, scene of, 
Downing, Emanuel, ..... 
Drives and walks, ..... 

''Dungeons" or "kettle holes," geological, 



Page 

.52, 123 

19,27,52,11.3 

12, 50, 156, 17<5, 190 

111 

76 

174, 185 

108 

110, 127, 197 

21, 22, 67, 69 

13, 139, 193 

21 

84 

172 

12, 73 

137 

133 



E ist India Marine Society, relics, etc. , 

Electric Lighting Co., 

Electrical, telephone, telegraph, historical, etc., 
'Ellsworth, Col., in Salem, portrait, etc., . 

" Endicott and the Red Cross," 

Endicott, Gov. John, . , . ' . 

Endicott pear tree, 

Endicott, William C, 

'English, Philip, house site, etc., :^..;;? ^^-i; 
'Essex County Club, ..... 
"^Essex County, natural history collections (P. A. S 

Essex County Natural History Society, 
^^'' Essex," frigate, .... 

'^Essax Historical Society, . . . . 

'• Essex Institute, . . . . . 

Essex Institute, meetings of, . . : . 



87, 109 

121, 160 

120 

61, 192 

..•!;-:■;; ■ : 15, 179 

2, llv 14, 65, 79, 150, 191, 194 

. ; 136, 150 

19. 30. 101, 153 

,47, 185 

147 

93 

..74 

109, 127 

74 

73,193 

85 



30, 
34, 



^9, 



2e6 



INDEX. 



Essex Institute, objects desired for collections, 

Essex woods, drive through, 

Ethnological collections (P. A. S.), . 

Eskimo collections (P. A. S.), 

" Evanajeline," Longfellow's, where originated, 

Express lines, . . .' . 

"Fanshawe," Hawthorne's, where written, 

Farmer, Prof. Moses G., experiments in Salem, 

Felt, Capt. John, residence, . . 

Felt, Rev. Joseph B., 

Fern croft, ..... 

Fire boards, old, from E. I. M. Hall (P. A. S.). 

Fire Department, .... 

Firemen, Yeteran Association, 

Fishing and sailing, boats to hire. 

Flowers, native, .... 

Folly Hill, 

Forts, old, ..... 

Franklin Building, . 

Fraternity, Salem, reading and amusement rooms 

Friends Society, ..... 

Furniture, old, .... 

" Gallows Hill," ..... 

Gage, Gov., in Salem, etc., . 

Gardner, Capt, Joseph, .... 

(jj-as Light Co., .... 

Gedney, Judge, 1692, house site, 

Geology of Salem and vicinity, 

" Gibraltars '' and '* Black Jacks," 

Gilmore,. P. S., Salem band, . 

Goodhue, Senator Benjamin, residence, etc., . 

Grand Army, Post 34, ... 

" Grandfather's Chair," Hawthorne's tales of a 



72, 



11 



Page 

85 
145 

99 
102 
176 
122 

107 

121 

25 

. 191 

153 

IIQ 

68 

69 

129 

135 

151 

127, 128, 137, 140 

112 

116 

45 

77-81, 182 

32, 158, 180 

22, 44, 68, 151, 153 

12 

122 

34 

132 

183 

62 

194 

59 

175 



93, 



18, 



INDEX. 207 



Grant, Prest. U. S., in Salem, 

Grave stones, oldest in Salem, . 

Gray, William, residence, etc., . . . 

•• Grirasliawe " house (Charter St. house), 

Guild houses, ..... 

Hall, Academy, ..... 

Hall, Assembly, ..... 

Hall, City, ..... 

Hall, East India Marine (Museum), 

Hall, Hamilton, .... 

Hall, Lyceum, ..... 

Hall, Flummer, .... 

Hall, Town, . ... 

Hall, Washington, .... 

Hamilton, Alexander, in Salem, etc., 
Hamilton (town), .... 

Haraden, Capt. Jonathan, .... 

I (arbor, Salem, ..... 

Harrison, Pre.st. Benj., in Salem, etc., 

Hathorne, Judge, 1692, ...... 124, 171 

Hawthorne " Eastern Land Claim," the, . . . 173 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, . . 7, 51, 53, 80, 162-181, 183, 186, 189, 194 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, birthplace, . . . . 7, 80, 156, 160, 165 

Hav.thorne, Nathaniel, personal names used liy, . . 172 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, places of residence, . . 163 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, rambles about Salem, . . 180 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, scenes of stories, . . 166-180 

liawthorne, Nathaniel, " treatment " of , l)y Sak'm, . . 163 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, where married, , . . 16i, 170 

Hawthorne, Mrs. Nathaniel, birthplace, . . . 170 

'• Heaven and the Day of Judgment,"' carving (P. A. S.), 110 

Herbert street house, Hawthorne's, . . . . 165 

liigginson. Rev. Francis, ..... 4, 194 

Higginson, Rev. John, ...... 10, 124 





Page 




28 


124, 125, 


126, 159, 161 


1$ 


;, 87, 113, 197 


8, 115, 


124, 156, 170 




50 




58 




13, 43, 44 


. 63, 


157, 180, 191 




87, 187 




20, 59, 108 




58 




72 




67 




59 




14, 59, 194 




148 




29 




129 




28, 194 



2o8 



INDEX. 



Hiller, Joseph, .... 

Historic sites, ..... 

Holmes, Dr. O. W. H., in Beverly, . 

Holyoke, Dr. Edward Augustus, 

Hose carriages, models of old types, 

Hospital, Salem, . . . ■ 

" House of the Seven Gables," 

" House of the Seven Gables," identity of, 

Houses, earliest, .... 

Houses of various periods. 

Household utensils, old, 

Hutchinson, Gov. in Salem, . . . 

India, collections from (P. A. 8.), . 

Indian deed, ..... 

Indian relics, Essex Co., etc. (P. A. S.), 

Indian ridges or kames, geological, . 

Indians, IS". A. and Mexico, collections (P. A. S.^ 

Ingersoll, Miss Susan, .... 

Insurance companies. 

Introductory, ..... 

Jacobs, George, .... 

Jackson, Prest. Andrew in Salem, etc., 

Jail, County, ..... 

Jail delivery, witchcraft, 

Jail, of witchcraft times, 

Japan, collections from (P. A. S. ), 

Johnson, Rev. Samuel, birthplace, 

Juniper Point, ..... 

Korea, collections from (P. A. S), 

"^Kossuth, Louis, in Salem, . . - . 

'.' ■' - . 

Lafayette, Marquis de, in Salem, etc.. 
Lander, Gen. F. W., birthplace, etc., . 



Page 
52, 18.5, 190 





10 




145 


' 12, 74, 


194 




80 


113, 


15G 


7, 156, 


172 


.172, 


175 


6, 12, 


175 


8 


. 13 




■ 79 




44 




100 


4 


,65 


9C 


, 99 




133 




102 


. 172, 173, 17.5, 


191 




119 




1 


79, 82, 


150 


27, 65, 


191 


58, 


159 


5, 32 


, 33 


32, 


1.59 




104 




15 




128 




106 




29 


13, 28, 65, 79 


191 


30, 


124 



INDEX. 



209 



Xfircom, Lucy, .... 

liawience and Ludlow, funeral of, 

Leather industries, . . . • 

Lee, Jesse, in Salem, 1790, 

Legge's hill, . . . . • 

" Leslie's Eetreat ■' (see Bridge, Forth), 

Liherty Hill, ..... 

Library, Am. Asso. Adv. Science, 

Library, Art (Essex Institute), 

Library, Athenseum, 

Library, China (Essex Institute), 

Library, D. A. White, classical (Essex Institute), 

Library, G. A. E., Masonic, Odd Fellows, etc., 

Library, Law, Essex Co., 

Library, Philosophical, 1781, 

Library, Police Association, 

Library, Public, .... 

Library, Salem Mechanic Association, 

Library, Social, 17^0, .... 

Library, Story (Essex Institute), 

Library. Sutton Peference, . 

Log books, .... 

Loring. George P., . 

Low, Abiel Abbot, 

Lynde, .Justices, house site, . 

Ivvnn public forest, 

3[cCleilan, Gen. Geo P., in Salem, 

Maciiitire, Samuel, 

Magnolia, .... 

" Main Street, ' Hawthorne's, . 

Malay collections (P. A. S.), . 

>[all Street House, Hawthorne's, 

^Nfnnchcster, ..... 



20, 21, 



29 

26, 43, 80, 102, 107 

147 

179, 186 

106 

169 

14.5, 147 



2IO 



INDEX. 



Manuscripts, collection of, 

Marblehead, . . . . . 

jyiarbleliead Neck, . . 

"Margaret," ship, in Japan, 

Marine animals of Essex Co., etc.. 

Marine Society, Salem, 

Market, City Fish, . . . 

Mason, Capt. David, . . . . 

Master Builder's Association, 

Mather, Nathaniel, grave stone, 

Mathew, Rev. Theobald, statue, 

Maule, Thomas, house site, . 

" May Flower," the, at Salem, . 

Mechanic Association, Salem Charitable, . 

Mile-stone, ancient, 

Miller, Gen. James, residence, etc.. 

Minerals and rocks, Essex Co., etc., 

Missionaries, first ordained, 1812, in Salem, 

Monroe, Prest. James, in Salem, 

Museum of Peabody Academy of Science, 

Myopia club, .... 

Nahant beach, .... 

Napoleon relics, 

Narbonne house. 

Natural objects of interest, 

Naumkeag, . . . . 

Neck, Salem, .... 

Newspapers published in Salem, . 

Newspapers, bound files (Essex Institute) 

"Norman's Woe," 

Noyes, Rev. Nicholas, house site, 1692, 

Nurse, " Visiting," charity, . 



112, 



Page 

71), SI 
137 
139 
105 

), 134 
19.2 
69 

2o, li-ry 
lis 

V2i 

22 

4.5 

11 

110 

158 

2P, 51, 81, 113, 114 

93, 132 

42 

19, 27, 67 

*148 

141 
79 

0, 13, 159 
131 
4 
132 
122 
83' 
147 
33 
115 



127, 



INDEX. 



Ocean, finest views of, . 

Old Ladies' Home, .... 

Old Men's Home, .... 

Oliver, Andrew, house site, . 

Oliver, Gen. Henry K., residence. 

Organs, cliurcli, .... 

Orphan 'Asylum, City (Sisters of Charity), 

Page, Prof. Chas. G., laboratory in Salem, 

Pari.sh houses, 

Peabody Academy of Science, 

Peabody, Col. Francis, residence, etc., 

Peabody, Col. George, of Salem, .... 

Peabody, George of London, . . 74, 87, 88, 111 

Peabody Institute, in Danvers, .... 

Peabody Institute, in Peabody, 

Peabody (town), ..... 

Pepperrell, Sir William portrait of, . 

Perry, Commodore, in Salem, 

Peru, jars from (P. A. S.), 

" Peter Goldthwait's Treasure," Hawthorne's, . 

Peters, Rev. Hugh, house site, 

Photographs of historical and other sites, 

Pianos, old, ...... 

Pierce, Benjamin, birthplace, .... 

Pickering, Col. Timothy, . . 12, 15, 17, 

Pickering house, birthplace of Timothy Pickering, 
Pickering, John, residence, .... 

Pickman, Benjamin, ..... 

Pickman Farm, ...... 

Pillory, ....... 

Pitcher, " Moll," table used by her, 

Plummer, Caroline, ..... 

Plummer Farm School, ..... 



Page 
128, 139, 148 
19, 27, 29, 113, 156 
114, 156 
17 
. 30, 191 

40, 41, 43, 46, 48, 49 
316 

121 

50 

87, 196 

. 42, 60, 81, 82, 86 

29, 79, 90 

U6, 149, 151, 197 

151 

149 

UQ 

195 

27, 113 

103 

174 

11, 60 

182 

80 

16 

>5, 59, 68, 101, 124, 195 

15 

17 

14, 21, 195 

19 

58 

80 

17, 73, 115, 124 

115 



INDEX. 



Pointy of Historical Interest, 
I'olicre Station, .... 
iPplk, Prest. James K., in Salem, 
Poole, William Frederick, birthplace, 
Population, ..... 
/Portraits, lists of, in public buildings, etc.. 
Portraits, old, Hawthorne's account of, . 
Post Office, .... 

Pottery, souvenir. 
Prehistoric relics (P. A. S.), 
Prescott, William Hickling, birthplace, etc., 
T'rivateers, ..... 
Public Buildings, .... 

Public grounds, . . . . 

Pudeator, Ann, house site, 169,2,, , . 
Pue, Jonathan, grave stone, 
Pump^, town, ..... 
Punch bowls, old (P. A. S.), 
Putnam, Gen. Israel, birthplace, 

Quaker (see Friends), . 

Railroad communication. 

Railroad Station, B. & M., 

Rantoul, Robert, .... 

liead, Charles Albert, " Read Fund," 

Read, Nathan, residence. 

Restaurants, .... 

Revere, Paul and Sons, bell, . . . 

iR^vere, Paul, engravings by, 

iKevolutionary and other war relics, 

j" Rill from the Town Pump," Hawthorne's, 

Rogers, John, ..... 

R'umford, Count (see Thompson, Benj.), 





Page 




10 


. 


68 




.- 28 




22 




1 




199 




167 




53, 88 




183 




96, 99 


16 


, 73, 193 


. 25, 29, 77, 78, 84, 108, 


109, 142 




3 




124 




35 




47 




177 




110 




153 




45 




120 




59 




58, 147 




64, 191 




16, 73 




122, 129 




41, 145 




78 




79, 81 




177 




21 


s . . 


16 



INDEX. 



213 



Sailing, boating, etc , . . . 

Salem Village of 1692, . 
Saltonstall, Leverett, 
" Scarlet Letter," Hawthorne's, 
School collections at Museum (P. A. S.), • 
School, industrial, 
School, Plummer Farm, 
School, State Normal, 
Schools, art decoration in, . 
Schools, location, etc., City school houses, 
Schools, parochial, .... 
Sea journals, .... 

Seals, old, . . • 

Sermons, old, . . . • 

Shattuck house, witchcraft times, . 
Shaw, Judge Lemuel, W. M. Bunt's portrait of 
Sheridan, Gen. Philip, in Salem, 
Sherman, Gen. W. T. in Salem, . 
Ship rock, . . . . • 

Ship yards, old and new. 
Ships, portraits and models of Salem (E. I., 
Siam, Eaton collections from (P. A. S.), 
Silsbee, Senator Nathaniel, . 
Silversmiths, . . ... 

Skelton, Rev. Samuel, 
Smibert, John, portraits by, 
'/ Snow Image," Hawthorne's, 
Soldiers from Salem, 
Soldiers' Monuments, 

South Sea Islands, collections from (P. A. S 
Souvenir shopping, . . . . 

:3poons, souvenir, .... 
Stanley, Dean, in Salem, 1878, 
Stanley expedition relics (P. A. S.), 



Page 

129 

30, 150 

64, 191 

53, 169, ITJ 

98 

37 

115 

36 

37 

38 

37 

84 

79, 81 

79 

6,34 

191 

29, 65, 191 

30 

132 

123 

77, 78, 108, 1G9 

107 

18, 27, b2, 113, 198 
185 
4, 10 
80, 194, 195 
169 
26 
126, 149, 161 
101 
182 
184 
59 
101 



214 



INDEX. 



Statistics, local, .... 

Steamboat, Nathan Reacrs, 178V^, 

Stocks and Pillory, .... 

Story, Judge Joseph, . . 17, 27, 28, 

Story, William W., birthplace, 

Street car lines, ..... 

Streets, oldest, .... 

Sumner, Tlios. W., architect, 

Sun Tavern, . . . . 

Sunday school, lirst in America, 

Surf, best time and place to see, 

Swampscott beaches. 

Tablets, historical, .... 

T'ablets, memorial in churches, etc., 

Taverns, . . 

Telephone, first developed in Salem, 

Thompson, Benj., .... 

"Toll Gatherer's Day," Hawthorne's, 

Torrey, Rev. Chas. T. in Sdlem, 

Town histories and genealogies (Essex Institute), 

Toys, old, 

Trees, rare or fine specimens. 

Tunnel, railroad, ..... 

Hpham, Hon. C. W., . 
IJ'pjohn, Richard, architect, 

^anes, old church, . . . . . 

Walks about Salem, . . . . 

Ward, Gen. F. T., birthplace, etc.. 
Ward, John, house, .... 

Ward, Joshua, house, . . , . 



Page 
1 

16, 73 

58 
5, 80, ]13, 1.37, 147, 185, 195 

17 
120 

10 

44 

18, 19 

142 

139 

140 

22, 24, 31, 3P, 125 

42, 47 

18, 34, 80 

121 

16 

178 

45 

82 

81 

lz9, 135, 157, 158, 15P, 160 

60 

29,34,35,196 
41 

: 80 

155 
30, 196-, 
12, 159; 
7,26,33 



"VV'ashington, George, 



7, 13, 14, 15, 26, 55, 65, 79, 137, 147, 191, 192, 196 



INDEX 



Wasliinj;ton square, . 

Water works, . • • • 

Webster, Daniel, 

Wenliam, . . 

Wenham lake, 

Wheatland, Dr. Henry, . 

Whipping post, 

Whittier, John G., home of, 

Williams, Roger, house, 

Willows, the, .... 

Windows, memorial, . 

Winthrop, Gov. John, . 

Winthrop, Henry, drowned, . 

Witch house (see also Williams, Roger), 

Witch pins, . -^ ■ • • 

\V itch craft, . . • • 

Witchcraft Court, 

"Witches" never burned in Massachusetts 

Woodbury, John, house site, 

Wood- wax, 

"Woman's Friend Society, 

Worcester, Joseph E., residence, etc., '. 

Yachts: yacht clubs, 

Young Men's Christian Association, . 



215 



5, 30, 



57, 



150 



Page 




127 


69, 


148 


18, 


196 




148 




148 


74, 77, 


196 




58 




152 


6, 14 


,33 


127, 


128 


43, 45. r 


,50 


4, 11, 12, 


159 




25 


6, U 


.,33 


5, 32 


5,57 


152, 153, 154, 


159 


5,31 




33 




11 


130, 


136 




114 


17, 


166 


123, 137, 


159 




116 



^1 



SALEM 



